Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic

[jcthorne]

Thanks for the link. Great article.

 

[PL510*Jeff]

Jeff and I both have been using the Motorcraft 5w-50 motor oil.

Ford recommends it, from the beginning, and I find no reason to change it at present. :thumbsup

That is correct. Pretty much follow the book for maintenance, oil changes, etc.

Still very trouble free.

 

[Wwabbit]

Great link. Thanks for posting that!

 

[JCO1966]

These are the times when I wish I did not have A.D.D! No way I can sit down and read all that! I think I will just go for a cruise in the GT and stick with what Ford recommends!

 

[BlackICE]

These are the times when I wish I did not have A.D.D! No way I can sit down and read all that! I think I will just go for a cruise in the GT and stick with what Ford recommends!

That's a safe bet. If the engine lasted with all of the testing that Ford did I wouldn't lose any sleep using FMC in the engine.

 

[PILOTJPW1]

Chad, if you hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor while pushing start, it will crank the engine without starting.

Jeff

There are other steps involved than this. You better read the manual or it will roar too life.

 

[The Grey Ghost]

There are other steps involved than this. You better read the manual or it will roar too life.

I was thinking that's all I do, per the service manual.
What am I forgetting? Other than push in the clutch.

 

[Sinovac]

Forget about the oil, what we really need is this:

http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/psychiatry/specialty_areas/obsessive_compulsive_disorder/index.html

 

[Xcentric]

These are the times when I wish I did not have A.D.D!

Forget about the oil, what we really need is this:

http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/psychiatry/specialty_areas/obsessive_compulsive_disorder/index.html

Bahahaha! The license plate on my Xterra.

 

[dpdive]

Who's ZDDP do you use? What weight Mobil 1?

I'm using Mobil 1 5W-50 which is available in the US without going to a Porsche dealer. http://thelubricantstore.com/

And the ZDDP is from, http://www.zddplus.com/

One 4 oz. bottle added to the oil brings the zinc & phosphorus levels up to that of Mobil 1 Racing but not the best thing for CATS.

 

[2112]

Thanks!

 

[dpdive]

Here's more reading for when you can't sleep at night.

http://hyperformancecycles.net/oil_bible.pdf

Don't let the link mislead you, it's about oil not motorcycle oil and it is the Motor Oil Bible.

 

[BlackICE]

I'm using Mobil 1 5W-50 which is available in the US without going to a Porsche dealer. http://thelubricantstore.com/

And the ZDDP is from, http://www.zddplus.com/

One 4 oz. bottle added to the oil brings the zinc & phosphorus levels up to that of Mobil 1 Racing but not the best thing for CATS.

What CATS? :lol

 

[dpdive]

Only for that darned inspection.
On a side note if you read the Motor Oil Bible he says "Current API specifications limit the amount of phosphorous in certain weight oils (0w20, 5w20, 0w30,
5w30 or 10w30) to .10% or 1000 ppm (these are one and the same). This is done because some
manufacturers believe that high levels of phosphorous will prevent catalytic converters from doing their
job for the full 150,000 miles that the EPA requires.
The problem with this theory is that this is only a problem when the oil burns. If the oil doesn't burn, the
problem really doesn't exist. That's where the NOACK (which we've already talked about) comes in. As
I've already indicated, most synthetic oils have NOACK scores that are half what their petroleum
counterparts are.
Studies indicate a direct correlation between the NOACK, oil consumption levels and the amount of
phosphorous that ends up leaving the engine with exhaust gases. So, logic indicates that a synthetic oil
with half the NOACK score and twice the phosphorous would cause no more damage to a catalytic
converter than a petroleum oil with twice the NOACK score and half the phosphorous. So, low NOACK
oils can increase their levels of ZDTP without harming catalytic converters.
In this way, the wear properties of the oil, as well as the oxidation and corrosion inhibiting properties,
can be increase significantly. However, this means that an oil which utilizes these higher ZDTP levels
cannot be "certified" with the API. It can be tested and shown to meet all other relevant criteria, but the
API will not certify it."

 

[BlackICE]

Also factor in the mileage most of these car are going to see, the CATS should last a long time even with high levels of ZDDP with the exception of Jeff, Ralphie and a few others.

 

[bonehead]

I was thinking that's all I do, per the service manual.
What am I forgetting? Other than push in the clutch.

I believe this is the procedure.

1. Turn the key to the on position.
2. Push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there.
3. With the 'pedal still on the floor, push and hold the start button.
4. Let 'engine crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash.
Upon seeing pressure, release the start button, BEFORE you let up on the 'pedal.
5.Release the pedal and then start normally.

 

[Wwabbit]

I believe this is the procedure.

1. Turn the key to the on position.
2. Push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there.
3. With the 'pedal still on the floor, push and hold the start button.
4. Let 'engine crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash.
Upon seeing pressure, release the start button, BEFORE you let up on the 'pedal.
5.Release the pedal and then start normally.

Just a side note: for whatever reason, you sometimes won't get an oil pressure indication, even after multiple attempts. The manual simply says to cycle the starter for 20 sec, then have fun.

 

[JCO1966]

Thanks for the starting instructions!

 

[Indy GT]

Jeff and I both have been using the Motorcraft 5w-50 motor oil.

Ford recommends it, from the beginning, and I find no reason to change it at present. :thumbsup

Ralph,

I agree with you and Jeff. Ford specified Motorcraft works just fine for me too....

(These oil threads will NEVER die)

 

[jcthorne]

Thought I would post up some follow up on my use of Rotella T6 synthetic in my GT since the specified Motorcraft product is no longer available. Anyway, I ended up going a bit further on an oil change than I like but for oil analysis, it was a very good sample. Rotella at 5500 miles had FAR better numbers than the currently available motorcraft after less than 1000. Zinc and Phosphorus levels well above 1000ppm, wear metals all VERY low for 5500 miles and viscosity right in line with a 40wt oil, IE no shear break down. Even TBN showed the oil had plenty of reserve use left. The Rotella T6 and my GT are getting along very well and I plan to continue using it. It pretty much confirmed the expectations based on its use in our other engines including a GT500 but testing an actual sample from the vehicle was good insurance.

Just letting folks know its now verified to work well in this application in real world use.