BlackICE
GT Owner
Will the engine electronically shut down if engine temp becomes dangerously high?
It goes into limp mode with reduced power.
Will the engine electronically shut down if engine temp becomes dangerously high?
The effort to develop this car and the people like you who actually got it done in such a competent and quality manner never ceases to amaze me.Ralphie talked about his experience above 242 F. a few pages back in this string.
What actually happens – The ECU starts pulling back spark timing.
And adding fuel pulse length (injector timing) (The extra fuel keeps thing cool).
This happens so aggressively there in no drought what is happening.
The power falls flat. And will continue to slowly retard timing to the point you are a moving road block. Just back off the loud pedal - up shift.
Roll around off the race line trying to keep up your air speed (to cool the monster) and as soon as the system falls below the 240 point everything will return to normal.
(This only happens on tracks that have an average speed/mile below 75 MPH)
After you get the hang of surfing the torque curve, this becomes less of an issue.
Really this system works. One of my lesser assignments was to confirm this over temp control was robust. My instruction was to set up a short auto cross. That maximized first gear @ the rev-limiter. And run out 6 tanks of fuel on the limiter.
This car and its systems are TOUGH- I was getting paid to kill a car.
This kind of assignment would turn your stomach.
But in the end you have a new respect for modern electronics.
There was no damage. The post leak down was the same as before the test.
We ran all the cars on a chassis dyno almost monthly- no issue.
Try that with your F-car!!
Gee whiz, DBTGT, does your trailer queen overheat? Maybe now that you have a second car you actually drive one!
Ralphie talked about his experience above 242 F. a few pages back in this string.
What actually happens – The ECU starts pulling back spark timing.
And adding fuel pulse length (injector timing) (The extra fuel keeps thing cool).
This happens so aggressively there in no drought what is happening.
The power falls flat. And will continue to slowly retard timing to the point you are a moving road block. Just back off the loud pedal - up shift.
Roll around off the race line trying to keep up your air speed (to cool the monster) and as soon as the system falls below the 240 point everything will return to normal.
(This only happens on tracks that have an average speed/mile below 75 MPH)
After you get the hang of surfing the torque curve, this becomes less of an issue.
Really this system works. One of my lesser assignments was to confirm this over temp control was robust. My instruction was to set up a short auto cross. That maximized first gear @ the rev-limiter. And run out 6 tanks of fuel on the limiter.
This car and its systems are TOUGH- I was getting paid to kill a car.
This kind of assignment would turn your stomach.
But in the end you have a new respect for modern electronics.
There was no damage. The post leak down was the same as before the test.
We ran all the cars on a chassis dyno almost monthly- no issue.
Try that with your F-car!!
Feel comfortable asking me any questions
Takes care
Shadowman
Hey Shadow, sorry to nag you on this issue but me and parts guy were a bit confused on what parts to order to replace the '05 grill. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
After attending VIR, for 3 days, with 3 GT's I have some reporting to do.
Pete S, Mike L. , and Dave Z, (thungsten.red.and black GT) were running 25 minute stint's.
Pete's red car, and Mike L.'s thungsten were running at 240dg, by the end of the stint.......no modifications made to either car (i believe) while Dave Z was running 205 dg, and believe me, he was running it hard. The temperature was about 95 dg's (for all 3 days)........In fact, I did notice both the red car, and thungsten came in earlier than the stint, while dave's black car kept on running (hard).
There were some modifications done to the front of Dave;s car, which Bob Ida fabricated. I believe those modifications made all the difference of almost 40 degrees.
Although removing the grilles will help the air flow, that is just one small item of the complete package.
I will be testing my car , which was the one that had the radiator fins closed back in 2005, in the next few weeks at a local track (monticello), and I'll report back to let you guys know if those mods work. I believe if they work on my car, they will work on anyone's car, since I have lived for 2 years with the computer shut down on a hot day, in traffic.
Just my 2 C's.
Gino
There were some modifications done to the front of Dave's car, which Bob Ida fabricated. I believe those modifications made all the difference of almost 40 degrees.