I hate to put you on the spot (not really) but would you mind giving us one of you famous Shadowman How To's on the screen removal?
Now let me address a couple items;
The vacuuming of the cooling system was me sharing a real time experience and the associated results however I was not encouraging others to do so but rather this was my attempt was to make clear the proper way to fill a system and an avenue to take if something seems askew.
Now as for folks changing their driving style to combat the warmer temperatures experienced; to this I can only say that which I have been told. These gals ran hot with the original screen in place and the situation was significantly improved once it was removed as the result of a production change however even with her nose fully open if the gal is tracked expect to see temperatures climb as such once your track time is completed do “not” simply turn her off but rather run a cool down lap or let her idle for a couple minutes akin to that which is done with a race horse.
Now as for the removing of the early screen; it is a Saturday afternoon project with basic hand tools; 6, 8, and 10mm socket/wrench, 27 Torx, a Phillips screwdriver and of course plenty of blue tape to mask the perimeter of the wheel openings as well as all other areas such as the seam where the fender and the front cover joins as well as all other areas that you find yourself in close contact with during the process.
FYI; I recommend the following be on site to complete the process;
1. Blue tape
2. Blanket or stand to set the nose of the gal on
3. The tools as mentioned above
4. 8 new screw in style retainers for the front inner fender liners
5. 20 new press in style retainers for the front inner fender liners
6. Three new press in retainers for the nose of the gal
7. New late style opening frame that will be the replacement for the early grill
Once the masking is finished you need to remove the front inner fender liners (take your time and do “NOT” fight them as them will come out with no damage however it is a bit of a puzzle figuring out exactly what they want when doing so; installation is NBD) so that you can access and remove the headlights; in doing this you also will have to remove the washer fluid tank on the driver side (it is secured with a single bolt and once removed the tank can simply be set out of the way without completely removing it) and the canister purge tank on the passenger side (this is secured with a 10mm bolt, 3 Torx, and a solo nut. Disconnect the upper most hose and then it can be set aside without completely removing it) and horns are secured to a solo bracket by one Torx on the passenger side; all of these processes are relatively easy.
You will also need to remove the lower chin spoiler which is secured with a series of 8mm bolts around the perimeter and a row of Torx across the rear edge. Then unplug the side markers, the lower front running lights then remove the associated hardware (8mm bolts (as I recall there are a total of five per side; three that secure the front nose to the fender that are installed from the top down and then the two on each side that are installed horizontally through the narrow strip along where the headlights were) all of which are easy to access; special note that there are two on each side that go in from where the headlights were that secure the fender to the front cover along the narrow strip will also allow for a critical final adjustment when reassembling.
Once this has been completed the nose of the gal is only being held in position by 3 press in retainers located along/under the edge that runs along the bonnet. With two people the process to lift it off is painless and the assembly is very light; for example I do it by myself. Once off and flipped upside down either on a nice blanket or placed on a stand the two running light assemblies will need to be removed along with several small Phillip screws and then the early style screen can be removed. Now at this point it is recommended that you replace the early style screen with the late style opening frame which installs the reverse of that which was removed. Once this process has been completed the reinstalling of the nose is easy; simply set the assembly on the gal using the 3 new press in retainers as the starting point and then bring each side up to the fenders and secure with the 3 bolts on both sides.
Now take a little time to methodically align all of the seams as you snug all of the hardware and then plug the running lights back in, install the headlights, the canister purge tank, the horns, the washer tank, the inner fender liners using only new hardware and then lastly the gal's shoes after which you can sit back and admire what you accomplished not to mention that your gal will be much happier too.
Hopefully I did not miss anything
Feel comfortable asking me any questions
Takes care
Shadowman
