2006 Ford GT Oilpump and Serpentine Belts
- Thread starter i3lack0ut
- Start date
bonehead
GT Owner
Been procrastinating a bit on my next oil change because it's so darned hot this time of year, so I've been accumulating a list of 'while you're out there sweating anyway' things to do (including a battery change that Dr. Frank not-subtly-at all guilted me into as well as Kendall's Fumoto valve). This belt has not been changed to my knowledge. I figure it's probably due.
First, who is a reliable source for the Conti Y-720 belt? I put in a Google search and get results for companies I've never heard of. Don't want to end up with a 20 year old belt or some s**tty knockoff.
Second, appreciate the input on the tensioner courtesy of @Art138 and @nota4re. I'm 100% a visual guy (I'm the dork that went to every single class in med school because I had to see everything on the board for myself) and have read the section in the 06 service manual. But just to be clear:
1) remove 7 torx bolts (T-27 or T-30?) and cover (while apparently cursing because they're not the easiest to remove due to location)
2) loosen the center bolt on the tensioner
3) turn the eccentric washer counterclockwise with a 6mm Allen key to relieve tension on the belt and remove belt
4?) Remove tensioner completely to facilitate installing the new belt (assume this entails completely loosening/removing the center bolt on the tensioner?)
5) Install new belt followed by re-installing the tensioner finger tight on the center bolt
6) realign U-sight with scribe mark by turning the eccentric washing clockwise (using mirror to confirm. Not sure how/where a mirror is used here but will assume it will become readily apparent once I have the cover off) and then fully tighten center bolt (is there a torque spec on this or just 'tight enough'?)
7) reinstall cover and 7 torx bolts (reiterating the previous cursing but now in reverse)
Sound about right?
First, who is a reliable source for the Conti Y-720 belt? I put in a Google search and get results for companies I've never heard of. Don't want to end up with a 20 year old belt or some s**tty knockoff.
Second, appreciate the input on the tensioner courtesy of @Art138 and @nota4re. I'm 100% a visual guy (I'm the dork that went to every single class in med school because I had to see everything on the board for myself) and have read the section in the 06 service manual. But just to be clear:
1) remove 7 torx bolts (T-27 or T-30?) and cover (while apparently cursing because they're not the easiest to remove due to location)
2) loosen the center bolt on the tensioner
3) turn the eccentric washer counterclockwise with a 6mm Allen key to relieve tension on the belt and remove belt
4?) Remove tensioner completely to facilitate installing the new belt (assume this entails completely loosening/removing the center bolt on the tensioner?)
5) Install new belt followed by re-installing the tensioner finger tight on the center bolt
6) realign U-sight with scribe mark by turning the eccentric washing clockwise (using mirror to confirm. Not sure how/where a mirror is used here but will assume it will become readily apparent once I have the cover off) and then fully tighten center bolt (is there a torque spec on this or just 'tight enough'?)
7) reinstall cover and 7 torx bolts (reiterating the previous cursing but now in reverse)
Sound about right?
fjpikul
GT Owner
Step 1) T30 Torx.
You forgot a VERY IMPORTANT step! Let's call it...
Step 1.5) With the cover removed and BEFORE you loosen anything, get a good look at how the tensioning "sight" looks. The Shop Manual does just an OK job depicting it, but it's best if you look at and understand what it should look like when you're done. Again, it is similar to a standard rifle sight - a square notch and you align the stamped line to be in the center of this notch. I'm probably making it sound harder than it is. Unfortunately, you'll have to use a mirror. (The mirror we use is about 1"x2" and it's on a telescoping handle.)
Step 4) I confirm, remove the tensioner completely by removing the center bolt and the tensioner. This will make it a lot easier to remove the old belt and to install then new belt without damaging it
Step 6) I think VERY important to use the torque spec in the manual. Remember, this is open heart surgery! Re-check that your alignment didn't change when you torque the center bolt to spec. Hint: It will.
You forgot a VERY IMPORTANT step! Let's call it...
Step 1.5) With the cover removed and BEFORE you loosen anything, get a good look at how the tensioning "sight" looks. The Shop Manual does just an OK job depicting it, but it's best if you look at and understand what it should look like when you're done. Again, it is similar to a standard rifle sight - a square notch and you align the stamped line to be in the center of this notch. I'm probably making it sound harder than it is. Unfortunately, you'll have to use a mirror. (The mirror we use is about 1"x2" and it's on a telescoping handle.)
Step 4) I confirm, remove the tensioner completely by removing the center bolt and the tensioner. This will make it a lot easier to remove the old belt and to install then new belt without damaging it
Step 6) I think VERY important to use the torque spec in the manual. Remember, this is open heart surgery! Re-check that your alignment didn't change when you torque the center bolt to spec. Hint: It will.
bonehead
GT Owner
Thanks Kendall. Ok, so just remove the tensioner completely before removing the belt and reinstall after the new belt is in. Got it.
Like I said, I'm a visual guy. I understand lining up the notch and the line on the tensioner. But without having actually seen where the belt and tensioner are located and what's around it, it's difficult for me to picture why you need a mirror and exactly how tight it is in there. What's in front of the drive belt cover and gears preventing a direct line of sight? Firewall?
And yes, just reread the manual. Tensioner bolt should be torqued to 16 lb-ft (22 Nm).
bonehead
GT Owner
Use a T30 Torx bit. The bit is about 5/8" long. Stick the bit into the screw and hold it there with your index finger. With other hand, use a 1/4" open-end wrench to turn the hex end of the bit while your index finger holds it in place. Lefty-loosey. Takes some patience... arms get tired being overhead, etc. The space is tight. Keep thinking that you only need to do this every 10 years or so!
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The new belt will be tight but it will go on. Just don't cross thread the bolt.
On the cover torx I use a bit with a piece of tape to wedge it in a ratchet wrench.
On the cover torx I use a bit with a piece of tape to wedge it in a ratchet wrench.
