2006 Ford GT Oilpump and Serpentine Belts
- Thread starter i3lack0ut
- Start date
I ordered one from NAPA. I think they're getting it from Grainger. I'll put it on this winter and see what happens.
There's a reasonable description in the service manual regarding the tension adjustment and how to set it. In contrast to the replacement procedure in the manual, we always replace them from underneath and never go in through the interior. Once you get the cover off, use the service manual pictures and a mirror and flashlight (seriously) to familiarize yourself with the orientation of the alignment marks for proper tensioning BEFORE you remove the existing belt. The belt is tensioned via an idler pulley. We will typically remove the idler pulley completely so that the new belt can be installed without damaging the "tracks". In summary, maybe the hardest/most tedious job is getting the plastic belt cover off. However, the most important part is understanding and setting the tension correctly. Like everything else, the first time that you do this its a learning experience and after that it will be quite easy/straightforward the next time.
maybe it was just because the only car i had with valve had a 3/8 hose that was 2' long..
We’ve fitted maybe 6 or so now - we don’t have lots of miles as most of our customers don’t drive their cars enough...
No reason to think they won’t last just as well as the OE belt though from what we have seen.
Dan S.
Well-known member
- Oct 7, 2020
- 49
I contacted Continental yesterday about the y-720 belt... was curious if there were any specs, specifically rpm and minimum sprocket diameter that might be helpful to our discussion. (Disclaimer - I don't know what the sprocket diameters are on the GT).
Their reply can be found below, their speed is noted in feet per minute; the belt is approx. 28.5" (2.375 ft) in circumference. so by my math, which could very well be wrong, at 9800 fpm it is going at about 4100 rpm. At 6500 rpm, the belt is going at over 15000 rpm which would seem to be more than "can handle well over 9800 fpm".
I have both the OEM and Y-720 in front of me. The Y-720 is about 0.020" wider and about 0.035" thicker most of which is in the belt not the teeth. Still don't know which belt I will go with when I swap them out this year...
Thoughts?
Dan
Dan,
The minimum diameter sprocket on the Y-720 is 18 teeth which is 1.80” in pitch diameter.
The max speed is dependent on the material of the sprockets.
Up to 6500 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = cast iron is often used in stock
Up to 9800 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = ductile iron is required.
Over 9800 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = steel is required.
The belt can handle well over 9800 fpm. Of course, the faster the belt is travelling the less life the belt will see. Also we would recommend to go as large as possible on the small sprocket and stay away from the minimum if at all possible. Going small on the sprocket will also reduce life of the belt.
Regards, Jeff
Applications Engineering
Their reply can be found below, their speed is noted in feet per minute; the belt is approx. 28.5" (2.375 ft) in circumference. so by my math, which could very well be wrong, at 9800 fpm it is going at about 4100 rpm. At 6500 rpm, the belt is going at over 15000 rpm which would seem to be more than "can handle well over 9800 fpm".
I have both the OEM and Y-720 in front of me. The Y-720 is about 0.020" wider and about 0.035" thicker most of which is in the belt not the teeth. Still don't know which belt I will go with when I swap them out this year...
Thoughts?
Dan
Dan,
The minimum diameter sprocket on the Y-720 is 18 teeth which is 1.80” in pitch diameter.
The max speed is dependent on the material of the sprockets.
Up to 6500 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = cast iron is often used in stock
Up to 9800 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = ductile iron is required.
Over 9800 fpm rim speed (belt surface speed) = steel is required.
The belt can handle well over 9800 fpm. Of course, the faster the belt is travelling the less life the belt will see. Also we would recommend to go as large as possible on the small sprocket and stay away from the minimum if at all possible. Going small on the sprocket will also reduce life of the belt.
Regards, Jeff
Applications Engineering
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extrap
GT Owner
Very much looking forward to seeing how this plays out ... not crazy at all about operating with a 15 year old belt.
HighHP
GT Owner
Dan S.
Well-known member
- Oct 7, 2020
- 49
Thanks for the correction, the math seemed off - should have worked it through a couple more times before posting.
I see where I went wrong;. my math assumes a sprocket circumference of 2.375 ft, sigh... so the good news is that the belt is well within the rim speed specs given by the tech.
The bad news is that I'm going to go in a dark room and sulk for a couple days.
I see where I went wrong;. my math assumes a sprocket circumference of 2.375 ft, sigh... so the good news is that the belt is well within the rim speed specs given by the tech.
The bad news is that I'm going to go in a dark room and sulk for a couple days.
HighHP
GT Owner
extrap
GT Owner
I have no connection to this seller. He claims this Continental belt is the same as the Ford. $89 https://dearbornperformance.com/sho...06-ford-gt-dry-sump-oil-pump-replacement-belt
What do you all think?
What do you all think?
fjpikul
GT Owner
HighHP
GT Owner
Same belt with many comments above in this string. Also in other strings as well. A search should bring them up.
I just changed mine this morning; one observation I noticed was that the two line marks were off by 1/4 of an inch (from factory). To give you better perspective of the tensioner note that the line mark indicators must go on the top when re-installing. Use your Houdinian ability to compress the belt while ensuring the tensioner bolt goes in straight. The old belt was in very good shape for a 15 year old car (as seen in the pic below).
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Art,
I illustrated your photos a bit to further help first timers. The assembly - as shown in the relaxed position should go up and into the car with no shenanigan's on the belt. Once the bolt is in and finger tight, use an Allen key to rotate the cam assembly CLOCKWISE and align the scribe mark. This is tensioning the belt. Hold it in place while you tighten the bolt. Once tightened, confirm the alignment of the scribe mark centered in the u-shaped aperture. Note: You will need a mirror to see all of this when it is in the car! Just take your time and make sure it's right.
I illustrated your photos a bit to further help first timers. The assembly - as shown in the relaxed position should go up and into the car with no shenanigan's on the belt. Once the bolt is in and finger tight, use an Allen key to rotate the cam assembly CLOCKWISE and align the scribe mark. This is tensioning the belt. Hold it in place while you tighten the bolt. Once tightened, confirm the alignment of the scribe mark centered in the u-shaped aperture. Note: You will need a mirror to see all of this when it is in the car! Just take your time and make sure it's right.
HighHP
GT Owner
