2006 Ford GT Oilpump and Serpentine Belts

[HighHP]

Search "petcock" and "draincock" you will find some threads on changing coolant and the two engine drain plugs.

Also here is a link to a thread I posted awhile back on changing coolant and the engine drain plugs. I installed petcocks with hose sleeves that are the same as on the radiator drains. The petcock part number is in the link, pics too.

Coolant Drain

I think the over heating situation is a touch over analyzed. The car automatically protects its self. As you get to 240, 2 things happen, 1st you get a red light in the gauge, then if you ignore that, car will go into limp mode. Ive had both happen on tracks. Thanks for the correction about...

www.fordgtforum.com

 

[i3lack0ut]

I monitored the belts for checking and cracking and never saw any signs of stress. But at 15 years it's probably worth a preventative maintenance. I generally replace belts when they start to check/crack. My Ford GT belts (both the supercharger and accessory) looked brand new after 13 years. The serpentine belt on my 2004 truck still looks brand new and like most GTs, it's a factor of age rather than miles.

But if belts deteriorate with age so do coolant hoses... Is there any wisdom on replacing them? I've never had a serpentine belt go but I have had radiator hoses blow out...

You've got a point with the coolant hoses. I never thought about it since i've never worked on a car that had a time/milage interval for those but you could make that argument.

Trying to answer a few questions....

I agree that you don't get all of the coolant out when draining at the radiator petcocks. However, that's the process we follow. We don't remove the plugs in the block. Will you get more coolant out? Yes. But, it's a real mess and, imo, not worth it.

You can change the oil pump belt without going into the interior of the car. Like anything else, the first time you try to do this, it will take you an hour or two. The second time will be at least twice as fast!

The best way to install/remove the oil pump belt is to remove the tensioner pulley completely - and then put it back into place after the new belt is on. You don't need any special tools to set the tension - but you will likely need a mirror to validate the tension alignment marks. (Well, at least we do.)

Thank you very much for the information. So you don't change the supercharger/accessory belt by a fixed time interval? I guess for the serpentine belts you have to go through the interior of car. Do you use the workshop manual for procedures like this? Are the ones you find on ebay actually real workshop manuals with correct information?

Search "petcock" and "draincock" you will find some threads on changing coolant and the two engine drain plugs.

Also here is a link to a thread I posted awhile back on changing coolant and the engine drain plugs. I installed petcocks with hose sleeves that are the same as on the radiator drains. The petcock part number is in the link, pics too.

Coolant Drain

I think the over heating situation is a touch over analyzed. The car automatically protects its self. As you get to 240, 2 things happen, 1st you get a red light in the gauge, then if you ignore that, car will go into limp mode. Ive had both happen on tracks. Thanks for the correction about...

www.fordgtforum.com

Thanks for the tip. That's exactly what i meant. Does the allen plug have a tapered thread? Or is it just the pet cock you installed?

 

[twobjshelbys]

Do you use the workshop manual for procedures like this? Are the ones you find on ebay actually real workshop manuals with correct information?

The GT service manual was published by Helm, Inc (Ford's publisher for all service manuals). If the one on eBay is from Helm it is the correct one. If you have a '05 try to find a '06 because it made some corrections (and they are the same car), but even the '06 version has some errors/inconsistencies. I found torque specs for the same piece which are repeated that were different. Not enough to matter but still inconsistent.

 

[HighHP]

Does the allen plug have a tapered thread? Or is it just the pet cock you installed?

Engine block, removed allen and petcock all have the same tapered pipe thread. A pipe thread by design is a leak proof interference fit, that is why I don't think the OEM red "stuff" is loctite. I believe it is sealant, that is commonly applied to the treads of OEM leak proof fittings.

 

[Art138]

I found this belt on eBay .... the seller a had a few in stock. 99.00 dollars. Earliest I could find was 2010 manufacture.

 

[MNJason]

By earliest you mean the newest? I'm not sure I would put a 10 year old belt on my car.

 

[HighHP]

I got one sourced from a Ford warehouse last summer that was dated 2010. I must have received one of the last in inventory, based on forum reports. Ford apparently is out of stock. I replaced the original 15 year 19,000 mile belt with a NOS (new old stock) 10 year old belt. Never thought Ford would be supplying NOS parts. Seems this should be relatively easy for Ford to resupply?????
If you search "oil pump belt" you will find some possible options, if needed.

 

[Art138]

Yes manufactured in 2010. I bet the majority of cars out there are still running the original belts.

 

[mmlcobra]

Difficult question.
Replace a 15 year old used belt, with a 10 year old stored belt.
I confess, that I don't have an answer for this one.
Would leave this question to the people who work on these cars all of the time,
M

 

[texas mongrel]

Yes manufactured in 2010. I bet the majority of cars out there are still running the original belts.

I replaced mine three years ago, and the original was still, as far as I could see, perfect.

 

[HighHP]

I replaced mine three years ago, and the original was still, as far as I could see, perfect.

Mine looked perfect as well. Of course, I kept it.

 

[i3lack0ut]

The GT service manual was published by Helm, Inc (Ford's publisher for all service manuals). If the one on eBay is from Helm it is the correct one. If you have a '05 try to find a '06 because it made some corrections (and they are the same car), but even the '06 version has some errors/inconsistencies. I found torque specs for the same piece which are repeated that were different. Not enough to matter but still inconsistent.

Thanks for the information. I have seen that you can get online access to workshop manuals on the Motorcraft page for 21.95 USD for 72 hours.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

I'll check that out before i order a workshop manual and if it can't be saved with reasonable effort i will buy the physical book.

Engine block, removed allen and petcock all have the same tapered pipe thread. A pipe thread by design is a leak proof interference fit, that is why I don't think the OEM red "stuff" is loctite. I believe it is sealant, that is commonly applied to the treads of OEM leak proof fittings.

Interesting. I have never worked with tapered thread. Is the pressure no issue for the petcock you used?

 

[HighHP]

Interesting. I have never worked with tapered thread. Is the pressure no issue for the petcock you used?

Engine block drain plugs are tapered pipe thread. Many radiator drains and threaded fittings are tapered pipe thread. Many of the various fluid fittings on a car are tapered pipe thread. The OEM petcocks on radiators are tapered pipe thread. Pipe threads are tapered so saying tapered pipe thread is rather redundant, normally it is just called a pipe thread. The petcock that I used is identical in design to OEM radiator drain petcocks and is designed for pressure applications. Petcock, draincock and bleedcock are pretty much the same thing. Now saying this, nothing is absolute and variances do occur.

 

[Ron Resech]

Looking for an oil pump belt 4G7Z-6B651-AA? Any recommendations?

 

[GT101]

I would suggest using the Y-720 - Continental ContiTech SilentSync Belt instead of trying to obtain a Ford labeled part which will probably be quite old. That's what we're doing here in the UK now.

 

[nota4re]

I would suggest using the Y-720 - Continental ContiTech SilentSync Belt instead of trying to obtain a Ford labeled part which will probably be quite old. That's what we're doing here in the UK now.

Hi Dave! Collectively, have you accumulated many miles on the GTs using the Y-720 belt? I think that's going to be the go to belt for the oil pump!

 

[Ron Resech]

Thanks for the input and will look into the Continental belt.

 

[B.M.F.]

I throw those fumoto valves in the garbage. If you want your oil to drain in an hour or so they are great. Man i hate those things. There are inserts for the dry sump tank if it ever becomes an issue for the cars i own or service. imo you'd be better off to suck the oil out of the dry sump tank with a brass rod and a suction kit if you were worried about the threads. But to eaches own. I just hate those valves and refuse to use them.

 

[nota4re]

In contrast to the opinion above, I really like the valves. Yes, they are slower so if your objective is to have a Jiffy-lube quick oil change, the valve may slow you down. In our case, the draining speed has NEVER been an issue. Under a GT with the pans off, there's plenty of items to check - belts, AC compressor, oil cooler, power steering pump, motor mounts, exhaust, starter wiring, shocks, ball joints, etc. Additionally, it is a good opportunity to clean the pebbles and other crap that has accumulated between the frame rails and pans. By the time you've done these checks and cleaning, the oil reservoir has completely drained.

I also installed and use the drain on my F350 with 10+ quarts of oil. I've never found the speed of the draining to be an issue as it allows me (typically overdue) time to make some visual inspections to insure all is good.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

[2112]

Hi Dave! Collectively, have you accumulated many miles on the GTs using the Y-720 belt? I think that's going to be the go to belt for the oil pump!

Something you may stock in the future?