2006 Ford GT Oilpump and Serpentine Belts

[i3lack0ut]

Hi Guys

I'm from switzerland and my dad is the happy owner of a 2006 black with silver stripes and bbs wheels GT. Since I have the training as a mechanic i do all the mechanical work on the car.
I have a question regarding the belts (oilpump, and the two serpentine belts). How do you guys handle the change of those? In europe we have maintenance intervals where miles and years are linked. Meaning you do a maintenance service every year or every 20000 km, whatever you reach first. Meaning if you have a seven year old car you do the seven year service even if you only have 30000 km on it. As i understand the Ford GT owners manual, things like the belts and sparkplugs for example are purely milage linked. And since the car makes around 1000 miles per year and has 15000 miles on it the belts will be 30 years old when i change them which i think is a bit long. Do you have a fixed time when you change them or do you inspect them every year or how do you handle that? Assuming there are other people that don't put that many miles on their car.

Thank you for your help and enjoy your day

 

[mmlcobra]

If its the original oil pump belt, it should be changed regardless of mileage.
In this case, "age" matters!
Best,
Mark

 

[i3lack0ut]

If its the original oil pump belt, it should be changed regardless of mileage.
In this case, "age" matters!
Best,
Mark

Thank you for the answer. I suspected that. What age is the general consensus here in the forum?
Regards

 

[MNJason]

I was thinking these were supposed to be changed every 3 years? I am told they are not available right now, at least thats what my dealer says.

 

[i3lack0ut]

I was thinking these were supposed to be changed every 3 years? I am told they are not available right now, at least thats what my dealer says.

I‘ve read on here that it should be changed if the engine hasn‘t run at least 30 minutes every year for three years. I am not sure there is a time interval for engines that run regularly.

 

[TO AWSUM]

The manual says "change at 3 years only if stored for an extended period of time without the engine being operated." Extended period of time was not defined. Otherwise, the manual says to change oil pump drive belt at 48,000km or 30,000 miles. I've been told to probably change it every 10 years if not driven often and it is low mileage.

If the car is not driven often and is only started every few months, before starting the engine, use the procedure for "after changing the oil and filter" (Step 11. below). The oil change procedure is to hold the gas pedal all the way against the floor and crank the engine for 20 seconds to prime the oil system before starting the engine. The computer WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START if the pedal is held against the floor. If you lift the gas pedal just slightly off the floor, it will start.

303-01-1 Engine 303-01-1 GENERAL PROCEDURES Engine Oil Draining and Filling Material Item Specification Motorcraft SAE 5W-50 WSS-M2C931-A Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W50-QGT or equivalent
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
2. NOTE: When the oil filter cap is loosened, most of the oil in the oil filter adapter will drain back into the engine. It is necessary to remove any residual oil from the oil filter adapter.
3. Install a new oil filter element.
4. Install a new oil filter cap O-ring seal. • Lubricate the O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
5. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the oil filter cap. Over tightening the oil filter cap may damage the cover or O-ring seal and result in an oil leak. Install the oil filter cap. Remove the oil filter cap and oil filter element. • Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). • Discard the oil filter cap O-ring seal and the
6. Remove the 21 bolts and the rear engine oil filter element. underbody panel. • Remove any residual oil from the oil filter adapter.
7. Remove the 19 bolts and the front engine underbody panel.
8. Remove the oil reservoir drain plug and drain the engine oil from the oil reservoir.
9. Remove the 2 engine oil pan drain plugs and drain the oil from the engine. • Install the 2 drain plugs and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). • Install the oil reservoir plug and tighten to the engine. The engine oil level should be 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). within the MIN/MAX marks on the oil level indicator. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the oil level indicator.
10. Fill the oil reservoir with 9.0 liters (9.5 quarts) of clean engine oil.
11. NOTE: The engine lubrication system can be primed by cycling the starter motor with the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position (engine will not start). Cycle the starter motor for 20 seconds with the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.
12. Start the engine and check for leaks.
13. CAUTION: The engine oil level must be checked within 1 minute of shutting off Shut off the engine and immediately check the oil level on the oil level indicator. • If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the level to within the MIN/MAX marks.
14. Install the front engine underbody panel and the 19 bolts. • Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). 15. Install the rear engine underbody panel and the 21 bolts. • Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Copyright  2005, Ford Motor Company Last updated: 11/11/2005 2006 Ford GT, 12/2005 303-01-2 Engine 303-01-2 GENERAL PROCEDURES (Continued)

 

[MNJason]

So what about the main engine belt and supercharger?

 

[i3lack0ut]

The manual says "change at 3 years only if stored for an extended period of time without the engine being operated." Extended period of time was not defined. Otherwise, the manual says to change oil pump drive belt at 48,000km or 30,000 miles. I've been told to probably change it every 10 years if not driven often and it is low mileage.

If the car is not driven often and is only started every few months, before starting the engine, use the procedure for "after changing the oil and filter" (Step 11. below). The oil change procedure is to hold the gas pedal all the way against the floor and crank the engine for 10-20 seconds to prime the oil system before starting the engine after changing the oil and filter. The computer WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START if the pedal is held against the floor. If you lift the gas pedal just slightly off the floor, it will start.

303-01-1 Engine 303-01-1 GENERAL PROCEDURES Engine Oil Draining and Filling Material Item Specification Motorcraft SAE 5W-50 WSS-M2C931-A Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W50-QGT or equivalent
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
2. NOTE: When the oil filter cap is loosened, the engine oil from the oil reservoir.
3. Install a new oil filter element.
4. Install a new oil filter cap O-ring seal. • Lubricate the O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
5. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the oil most of the oil in the oil filter adapter will filter cap. Over tightening the oil filter cap drain back into the engine. It is necessary to may damage the cover or O-ring seal and result in an oil leak. remove any residual oil from the oil filter adapter. Install the oil filter cap. Remove the oil filter cap and oil filter element. • Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). • Discard the oil filter cap O-ring seal and the
6. Remove the 21 bolts and the rear engine oil filter element. underbody panel. • Remove any residual oil from the oil filter adapter.
7. Remove the 19 bolts and the front engine underbody panel. Copyright  2005, Ford Motor Company Last updated: 11/11/2005 2006 Ford GT, 12/2005 303-01-2 Engine 303-01-2 GENERAL PROCEDURES (Continued)
8. Remove the oil reservoir drain plug and drain
9. Remove the 2 engine oil pan drain plugs and drain the oil from the engine. • Install the 2 drain plugs and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). • Install the oil reservoir plug and tighten to the engine. The engine oil level should be 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). within the MIN/MAX marks on the oil level indicator. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the oil level indicator.
10. Fill the oil reservoir with 9.0 liters (9.5 quarts) of clean engine oil.
11. NOTE: The engine lubrication system can be primed by cycling the starter motor with the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position (engine will not start). Cycle the starter motor for 20 seconds with the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.
12. Start the engine and check for leaks.
13. CAUTION: The engine oil level must be checked within 1 minute of shutting off Shut off the engine and immediately check the oil level on the oil level indicator. • If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the level to within the MIN/MAX marks.
14. Install the front engine underbody panel and the 19 bolts. • Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). 15. Install the rear engine underbody panel and the 21 bolts. • Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).

Thank you for the information. I‘ve done the oil change a couple of times now and once you know how to do it it‘s pretty straight forward.

Ten years for belts seems like a good interval and what i plan to do. In ford europe most vehicles have an interval from 8 to 12 years depending on the car and if it‘s a camshaft drive belt ergo fatal for the engine if it breaks.

Regarding the oil pump belt i have found the following in the maintenance manual on the ford site (30000 miles): https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/maintenance-schedule.html

„Replace external oil pump dry sump drive belt or every three years if engine is stored without engine being operated for at least 30 minutes per year.“

 

[mmlcobra]

Obviously, if the oil pump belt fails, it will be just as fatal as a cam belt failure.
Regardless of use or non use, that belt has aged.
I would suggest that it would be prudent to source it from wherever you can, and replace it.
Seems like cheap insurance!
Mark

 

[TO AWSUM]

Change Accessory and Supercharger belts after they are cracked, etc. like any other vehicle. There is no interval, just wear indications.

 

[Specracer]

^^^ Agreed, if an accessory or SC belt breaks, might be inconvenient, but if the oil belt breaks, unless you shut down FAST, will be catastrophic.

 

[nota4re]

We are (were) changing the oil pump belts on every GT coming through here throughout the last 18 months or so. I would just think it is prudent to change the oil pump belt every 15-years. That's not too much, right? However, Ford has NO oil pump belts in stock nationwide as of this posting - and no ETA. So, we are patiently waiting for stock to return.

We would also highly recommend using a Fumoto valve on the aluminum oil reservoir. We've seen several oil reservoirs that have a small "twist" from over-tightened oil plug bolts. The Fumoto valve just make a lot of sense here - AND it make draining the oil from that awkward location SO much easier. It's just a win-win.

You can source your ow Fumoto valve or we have a "Oil Drain Care and Convenience Kit" customized for the Ford GT. You get the correct Fumoto valve, a length of hose (to leave on the car or not, as you choose) and a protective "cap" - just because it is a GT. Also included are two (super strong) magnetic drain plug bolts for the two plugs on the oil pan.

Cool Tech Oil Drain Kit <== Link

 

[TO AWSUM]

Thanks Kendall. Fifteen years sounds better than 10 and I passed along your recommendation to prime the oil system if the car is not driven often.

 

[i3lack0ut]

Obviously, if the oil pump belt fails, it will be just as fatal as a cam belt failure.
Regardless of use or non use, that belt has aged.
I would suggest that it would be prudent to source it from wherever you can, and replace it.
Seems like cheap insurance!
Mark

I agree. I will start changeing the oil pump belt every ten or twelve years.

We are (were) changing the oil pump belts on every GT coming through here throughout the last 18 months or so. I would just think it is prudent to change the oil pump belt every 15-years. That's not too much, right? However, Ford has NO oil pump belts in stock nationwide as of this posting - and no ETA. So, we are patiently waiting for stock to return.

We would also highly recommend using a Fumoto valve on the aluminum oil reservoir. We've seen several oil reservoirs that have a small "twist" from over-tightened oil plug bolts. The Fumoto valve just make a lot of sense here - AND it make draining the oil from that awkward location SO much easier. It's just a win-win.

You can source your ow Fumoto valve or we have a "Oil Drain Care and Convenience Kit" customized for the Ford GT. You get the correct Fumoto valve, a length of hose (to leave on the car or not, as you choose) and a protective "cap" - just because it is a GT. Also included are two (super strong) magnetic drain plug bolts for the two plugs on the oil pan.

Cool Tech Oil Drain Kit <== Link

Thanks for the tip with the fumoto valve. Seems like a good idea. I will check it out. Are they available for the coolant plugs at the side of the engine block? Because i've read on here that to get a significant portion of the coolant out you have to remove them. I haven't done this until now. I just open the valves at the front of the car but it's probably like 20 to 30% of the coolant that comes just out of there.

Is changeing the oil pump belt difficult? Do you need any special tools?
Do you change the other belts as well or do you just inspect them as they aren't that critical?

 

[TO AWSUM]

The Fumoto valve screws into the dry sump cannister which holds about 8 of the 9 quarts of oil, not into the 2 plugs in the oil pan which combined amounts to about 1.5 quarts. Whoops, reading comprehension, you said coolant not oil.

Yes, it's recommended to use a vacuum system to change the coolant. The reason is to guarantee there is no air introduced into the cooling system which will cause cooling problems. Here is a good one UVIEW 550000 Airlift Cooling System Airlock Purge Tool Kit

It's easier to change the oil belt if you don't follow the manual exactly. The manual wants you to remove the center console and the interior wall behind the seats to gain access to the front of the engine and to the oil belt cover and belt. You can actually change the belt by reaching up between the wall and engine from under the car without removing the interior components. You can't see much so you'll have to do it by feel.

 

[i3lack0ut]

The Fumoto valve screws into the dry sump cannister which holds about 8 of the 9 quarts of oil, not into the 2 plugs in the oil pan which combined amounts to about 1.5 quarts.

I am aware. I am not talking about the two plugs in the oil pan. I guess i changed topics a bit rapidly. I am talking about the two coolant plugs in the engine block. I'd like to remove those but with the red loctite on them i'd rather just exchange them for valves so i don't have to wear down the thread everytime i change the coolant.

 

[TO AWSUM]

I edited my comment above about the coolant.

 

[i3lack0ut]

I edited my comment above about the coolant.

I already bought the airlift kit. Getting the coolant in isn't a problem once you have it. I have more of a problem with getting it out. The two valves at the radiators never empty the whole system. That's why i'd like to remove the allen plugs at the side of the block with fumoto valves.

Is the tensioner of the oil sump belt spring loaded? Do you need a special tool to untension it?

 

[twobjshelbys]

I monitored the belts for checking and cracking and never saw any signs of stress. But at 15 years it's probably worth a preventative maintenance. I generally replace belts when they start to check/crack. My Ford GT belts (both the supercharger and accessory) looked brand new after 13 years. The serpentine belt on my 2004 truck still looks brand new and like most GTs, it's a factor of age rather than miles.

But if belts deteriorate with age so do coolant hoses... Is there any wisdom on replacing them? I've never had a serpentine belt go but I have had radiator hoses blow out...

 

[nota4re]

Trying to answer a few questions....

I agree that you don't get all of the coolant out when draining at the radiator petcocks. However, that's the process we follow. We don't remove the plugs in the block. Will you get more coolant out? Yes. But, it's a real mess and, imo, not worth it.

You can change the oil pump belt without going into the interior of the car. Like anything else, the first time you try to do this, it will take you an hour or two. The second time will be at least twice as fast!

The best way to install/remove the oil pump belt is to remove the tensioner pulley completely - and then put it back into place after the new belt is on. You don't need any special tools to set the tension - but you will likely need a mirror to validate the tension alignment marks. (Well, at least we do.)