- Feb 22, 2006
- 367
I don't see cause for concern with any of the above graphs. Theoretically your boost curve should be smooth but theory and reality are often somewhat different.
First off with the car TOTALLY stock and with 50 miles on it, we did a few pulls.
Ok... great so basically the ONLY thing you have to say is that the shop where the car was tested is the problem? BAD DATA..... Bad dyno, bad equipment, bad tuner.... ok... I gotchya. So let me ask you this sir; if this shop that did this testing was say at a shop YOU knew was reputable and the tuner there had a POPULAR name like say John Hennessey, would you STILL insist that until I take the car to another shop, the WHOLE problem could be with the dyno and getting bad data?
then im sorry but im NOT accepting the FACT that my boost is 2 pounds LOWER then all the other FGT's.... ITS NOT THIS COMPLICATED,IS IT?
I have spoke to at least 6 FGT owners who DID dyno and measure boost... they ALL saw 12 lbs of boost or 11.9's.
You dodn't need the KB boost gage kit to read the boost. You can just tap into the FRPS Boost/Vaccum line to get the CORRECT boost/vaccum !!!
I keep asking myself why I am so intrigued by this thread. The original "thread starter" apparantly doesn't like his GT all that well.
Most everyone else posting on this thread is defending the GT, as would I.
I am sure you guys will correct me if I am wrong :biggrin
It has been mentioned (I don't know if this is fact) that the car from he factory does not hit full performance until after 100 miles or so many starts or something like that.
At 50 miles, I think that if the above is true, the computer is not going to allow full performance.
OK, waiting for my correction (may I have another SIR)
,,,bottom line sounds like we NEED to know EXACTLY where we're tapping in to measure the boost on the dyno.