timcantwell
Le Mans 2010 Sponsor * Moderator
That's awesome. I remember one of my Ferrari's was running hot, so I "burped" the system to purge any air bubbles and voila! it ran about 45 degrees cooler. Air is the biggest enemy of the radiator!
This is how i lowered my coolent temps
- Thread starter Lorenzo
- Start date
Yukonranger
GT Owner
STORMCAT
GT
Bill,
This link isn't working for me. You are using the RADKITPLUS ? Is it the same as the airlift system? Can I get on online ?
Waldo
GT Owner
Stormcat,
Sorry for the confusion. The 2005 Ford GT Workshop Manual calls for the RADKITPLUS p/n 078-00497 for bleeding the air from the cooling systems.
I called Rotunda to order the RADKITPLUS and received the Airlift Kit p/n UVU550000 ($92.49). Same kit, different name. The Airlift Kit is made by UView Ultraviolet Systems, 905-615-8620, http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=550000. I believe you will need to order through a dealership to get tools from Rotunda.
Try this link: http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7873&highlight=radkitplus. (Pages 2 and 3) I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Waldo
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Neilda
GT Owner
Sorry to be really thick here.........
But what exactly are you doing? You're removing air from the cooling system - by suction, but you're not sucking out the coolant itself? How is the suction created?
Sorry, but I couldn't really see from previous posts what was being done (I realise air out, but quite how it was being accomplished...).
Thanks
But what exactly are you doing? You're removing air from the cooling system - by suction, but you're not sucking out the coolant itself? How is the suction created?
Sorry, but I couldn't really see from previous posts what was being done (I realise air out, but quite how it was being accomplished...).
Thanks
BlackICE
GT Owner
On a filled system a vacuum is applied to the degass tank and air and or fluid is sucked out. Yes some fluid will be lost in the process.
The typical use of the product is to drain the system then connect the tool to suck all of the air out. Then through a filler tube new coolant is added (sucked into) the evacuated system.
The typical use of the product is to drain the system then connect the tool to suck all of the air out. Then through a filler tube new coolant is added (sucked into) the evacuated system.
As several others have pointed out, this is the only way to go when addressing the engine cooling system or the supercharger cooling system.
The system works by drawing a vacuum across the whole system. The gauge is important as you do NOT want to have too much vacuum and risk collapsing the radiator itself. working properly, you will literally see the radiator hoses on top of the sucked flat. As Shadowman points out, it is best to let the vacuum sit for awhile. If there are any leaks in the system you will notice a decline in the amount of vacuum. Refilling the system with fluid is quite easy as it can be drawn into the system. Again, this is an excellent tool and the only tool that shoul be used when servicing the cooling system of the GT.
By the way, there's a lifespan on the coolant in the GT. Ford recommends changing the coolant at 3-year intervals. Most of our cars are at their 3-year mark in their lives - so think about changing your coolant (or having it done) next time you have your car serviced.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Sad about the link; maybe DBK can help???
As for the unit; yes as RADITPLUS system which is the same as the Airlift system and it/they are great for "all" vehicles"
Takes care
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
nota4re
Good comments however I will share so that folks do not become concerned; if you run the compressor in the 100-120 psi range and allow the system to draw 22-30 inches of vacuum you will have "no" issues; in fact most will find that the system will only draw in the range of 23-26 inches of vacuum.
Be sure to open the heater valve within your gal during this process if the primary cooling system is being bled; failure to do so is a common mistake.
Once the process is completed then the vacuum is the vehicle used to draw the fluid into the system hence the absence of air; now I should also share that you do "NOT" need to drain the systems to use this tool and benefit from the results.
Once the system has draw the fluids back in you will find that the degas tanks are fuller than need be as such you will have to siphon a small amount out.
Lastly; if you are inclined to use Redline’s Wetter Water in the system have it drawn in during the initial load of fluid.
I have no concern for the cores.
Takes care
Shadowman
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Thank-you Shadowman for clarifying on my poor writing. My intent was to extend caution to those that may be tempted to use a different tool/method to draw the vacuum. With this tool, as you say, there are no worries. Also, good to point out the heater core trick... clearly part of the instructions and now part of our routine, but too many people may discard the instructions!
All the best.
Kendall
Waldo
GT Owner
I included a second link that seems to work. If you're still having issues with it, just do a search for RADKITPLUS.
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Beach-GT
GT Owner
It seems you would have to drain the system to get a complete fluid change if that was your purpose. I do not think pulling a vacuum would drain the bottoms of the tanks and radiator....unless ofcourse you held the vacuum several days while it boiled off.
t32b
Verde
Apologies for being quite dense here - particularly because it has apparently been explained a few times in this thread. I get the notion of placing a vacuum device on the coolant tank (correct?), drawing a vacuum and in doing so, extracting residual gases from various parts of the system. I'm just unclear on what is done next. Is the vacuum system removed and then fluid is added to the tank? Or is fluid added elsewhere while the vacuum continues to be applied - much like a brake bleeder?
Sorry for the dumb question. Need to find 'Radiators for Dummies'....
The reason I'm asking is that my Porsche likely needs a good sucking. Just want to make sure I get it before ordering the part.
Sorry for the dumb question. Need to find 'Radiators for Dummies'....
The reason I'm asking is that my Porsche likely needs a good sucking. Just want to make sure I get it before ordering the part.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
I was not clear; certainly folks need to follow the recommended flushing of the system however based on my experience most of the gals on the road could use this service prior that point in which case you do not need to drain the system. This is for both the primary cooling and the intercooler system.
FYI this tool will not drain the system; ever.
Takes care
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
There are no dumb questions
Once the vacuum has been created and stable then the valve is closed thus allowing one to verify that there are no leaks by monitoring the gauge and then a hose that is connected to the valve is placed in the fluid and the vacuum draws it back in effectively replacing the absence of air with fluid hence no air in the system
Takes care
Shadowman
Triheart7
GT Owner
That's what happened in my case, however some may do better and some may not need it at all. I added 3/4 of a gallon of coolent with out changing the level in the reservoir. There had to have been a void some where in the system to allow that much coolent to be added, In other words there was 3/4 of a gallon of air in my system somewhere!!:eek
t32b
Verde
Thanks for the answer. Makes a lot more sense now. I just ordered one. I'm planning on adding a center radiator to the the P-car and will definitely have the need to suck out the voids that it will introduce. Those rear-engine things may have even more tubing length and nooks and crannies than the GT. I'll just have to figure out how to open up the heater in a climate-controlled car.
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