DanQ
GT Owner
Not to highjack, but do you guys have a recommended coolant to use? Ford factory stuff or aftermarket? I ordered an airlift kit and was thinking it was time to replace the coolant and install the rad hose springs soon.
This is how i lowered my coolent temps
- Thread starter Lorenzo
- Start date
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
paul b
This tool only creates a vacuum; no it will not remove a greater amount of fluid and as for refilling using the vacuum as created through the use of this tool to refill aka draw the fluid in is the "only" proper way to do it.
Takes care
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
I didn't necessarily mean using the airlift, but some form of compressed air to force more coolant out.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
I misunderstood
IMO using un-regulated air through the system could cause issues as such I do not suggest it.
I do however suggest opening the core plugs at the rear of the gal's heart to further the draining process.
Takes care
Shadowman
STORMCAT
GT
When using this device should you have a container to draw from that will hold and adequate amount of mix to refill the system or can you switch from container to container without worry of getting air into the system.
AJK
FENZO
GT Owner
My $.02: I have found that I can extract more of the coolant mix by placing a clean rag over the degas bottles and pushing with a shop vac hose on the exhaust side. This seems to provide a gentle positive flow without the risk of pressurizing anything. I fill using the airlift system with ~20% Ford gold coolant, distilled water, & Redline water wetter.
I ran last weekend with the Ferrari Club at Talladega Grand Prix Raceway where the heat index was 100+ with no overheating.
I ran last weekend with the Ferrari Club at Talladega Grand Prix Raceway where the heat index was 100+ with no overheating.
t32b
Verde
After reading this thread, and setting out, along with my 19 year old son, to do some surgery on the Porsche, I am really impressed. We decided to add a center radiator to the 997S after grafting a GT3 bumper on the car. A fun thing to do with the young man and, since I saved all that $$ doing it ourselves, I figured I would buy an Airlift to help ensure we did a good job.
I struggled with it until I got a helpful tip from our Famous Hand Model(tm). I hadn't clearly read his prior tip of having to run the vacuum/compressor for about 30 mins to achiever the proper level of vacuum. But after resetting my brain, it was a great science experiment. I felt like Bill Nye the Science Guy. And it slurped back in about a quart more than the normal drive-and-fill-rinse-and-repeat process that I would normally use.
So, thanks for the tip. On the tool and it's use.
I struggled with it until I got a helpful tip from our Famous Hand Model(tm). I hadn't clearly read his prior tip of having to run the vacuum/compressor for about 30 mins to achiever the proper level of vacuum. But after resetting my brain, it was a great science experiment. I felt like Bill Nye the Science Guy. And it slurped back in about a quart more than the normal drive-and-fill-rinse-and-repeat process that I would normally use.
So, thanks for the tip. On the tool and it's use.
t32b
Verde
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
It was truly my pleasure; when used properly it is an awesome tool however as you experienced if not then the results are moderate at best.
Takes care
Shadowman
Just had this service done by Kendall at Cool Tech, he used the vacuum tool. I got stuck in a 2.5 hour stop n go 10-20MPH traffic jam on the 405 South through L. A., the car coolant temp never climbed over the 200F mark. In fact, it hovered around the 180F-190F mark. Previous to that service, the car ran around the 205F-210F mark (and higher in some instances) in stop and go traffic.
PS: The service as always was excellent, and thanks for the Pizza and the front splitter Kendall, and thanks to Gaby (GT4JR) for hauling back the splitter for me :cheers
PS: The service as always was excellent, and thanks for the Pizza and the front splitter Kendall, and thanks to Gaby (GT4JR) for hauling back the splitter for me :cheers
Fast Freddy
GPS'D 225 MPH
FENZO
GT Owner
I live in Alabama & the GT stays in an air-conditioned garage (no freezing risk). I keep the 20% coolant for the anti-corrosive benefits & include water wetter to make up for the loss of surface tension reduction due to the reduced glycol level of the mix.
The first time I changed it I went strictly by the book (50/50), it runs a bit cooler now overall and seems to shed heat faster when it does got hot. I don't know if that can be contributed to less antifreeze or not, maybe I got a harder fill the last time.
It was my left leg that was felling the love :rofl. The clutch was amazing to operate for a 550HP car.
John B
GT Owner
- Jan 28, 2006
- 158
I have a whipple and see temps as high as 240 while on track. Pre Whipple I saw 220 maybe. I guess 200 more HP adds a heavy additional load on the cooling system.
I tried the Airlift system and let it suction for 20 minutes at 23" vacuum with the heater on. Went to the track again and still see 240. I guess I didn't have any air in the system in the first place.
I have made the following modifications in an attempt to lower coolant temps while on track.
- 1/2" Gurney flap on outlet side of radiator opening to lower pressure and draw more air through.
- Evans coolant (400 degree boiling point).
- Ceramic coated Ida exhaust system.
- Airlift suction
None of this has helped.
On track the coolant still gets to 240. I make sure to do a cool down lap and then keep the engine running with the clamshell open until coolant stabilizes below 200 before shutting down.
I'm all ears for any other ideas.
I tried the Airlift system and let it suction for 20 minutes at 23" vacuum with the heater on. Went to the track again and still see 240. I guess I didn't have any air in the system in the first place.
I have made the following modifications in an attempt to lower coolant temps while on track.
- 1/2" Gurney flap on outlet side of radiator opening to lower pressure and draw more air through.
- Evans coolant (400 degree boiling point).
- Ceramic coated Ida exhaust system.
- Airlift suction
None of this has helped.
On track the coolant still gets to 240. I make sure to do a cool down lap and then keep the engine running with the clamshell open until coolant stabilizes below 200 before shutting down.
I'm all ears for any other ideas.
BlackICE
GT Owner
I would try a <=20% anti-freeze mix, water wetter, with distilled water. Pure water has the highest heat capacity of commonly used fluids. If you don't have the Accufab hose springs you may consider them. Although independent testing has been done yet, I believe they can only help and are good insurance.
encountering similar problems on track with a whipple fitted, car has over 28 k miles mostly on track, just returned from nurburgring sunday(F1 day) about 25 laps car ok, Spa on monday, ambient about 75 f car reached 240 and went into default mode, ran rest of day with heater on. temps were high before the whipple but never enough to reach default, considering cutting in two openings adjacent to front number plate at low level with a small scoop effect to bring more air through the front opening.whether it is more air across the radiator or greater flow of water required not sure. 190mph on the straight at the ring!