Running Hot

[Craig]

I took my car to the track last weekend and it ran hot. In normal traffic and freeway speeds it is fine, but when pushed in 65 degree weather it was running 220+. The check engine light came on but things were normal after the car cooled down a bit. I knew that 220 won't hurt it but 235-240 might, and 65 is pretty cool air temp. When I got home I did a search on this forum for overheating but only found a couple of threads, mostly about grill or no grill. I have a grill. Should I remove it for track days or replace with the new part? Does it make a difference? I finding it disappointing th Ford build this high performance car that overheats when you drive it the way it was intended in normal weather. I think the cooling system should be bullet proof, and this one seems marginal. Anyone else discovered this problem?

Craig

 

[SuperB]

The 2006 models don't have a grill, it's not a new part.

For track use, I think the oil cooler is almost required, did you have that installed?

 

[Craig]

No, I have orderd it, and it should help with engine temp, but I still think the cooling should be solid when the car is sold and not require modifications to function as intended.

Craig

 

[ROCMAN]

What would be considered normal temp for city driving? Mine runs 210-220 all the time, in 60 degree weather. It seems high to me.

 

[1of19(GER)]

The highest temperature I ever watched: 230(outside 70)
It is inside the limits, so I don't care about it.

 

[barondw]

Craig

There have been many posts concerning temperature. But as on most Forums it rarely is under the subject you are interested in. Re-serach under exhaust, trans-axle cooler, gaugaes, etc.

The issue is that in heavy traffics, hot temepratures and on the track the engine coolant gets to 235 - 240 which is a danger point. You can change the foam material around the radiator to force more air through the radiator. The foam currently used is soft and does not do its job very well. A less flexible foam is required to block off air that by passes the radiator.

Also the new exhaust thread discusses another option to reduce engine compartment temps and thus collant temps. A major problem is that the stockj muffler almost totally blocks air flow in the engine compartment. This creates heat soak which raises the temps to an unacceptable level.

The trans-axle cooler is needed for track use as it cools the trans and axle.

Dave

 

[TrackDay]

During my first summer on the track my experience was the same. My engine temperature ran around 225-235 with ambient temperatures around 80 deg. This was very concerning for me.
Daily driving on the road at highway speeds are typically down around 185-190 even at very high ambient summer temperatures (90+ ambient temps) with the AC on.
However moving slower (20-40 mph) around town or stuck in traffic with typical summer ambient temperatures caused the engine temperatures to rise just as high as the track 230+!!! Again very concerning numbers.
The interesting thing is that the on the track the engine temperatures started out ok but crept up after the 2nd lap and at slow daily driver speeds the engine temperatures start out ok but creep up after playing around at those slow speeds for a while. So from my experience it seems like heat soak, high temperatures building under the hood and the cooling system can’t recover from it. This is just as Bob Ida has suggested.
As a result of these high temperatures I too have overheated my Trans Axle!
At first I had the Trans Axle cooler installed. This completely eliminated fluid from spitting out my Trans Axel.
However, this did little to solve the high engine temperature issue.
I also had stiffer foam (as others recommended) installed around the radiators to prevent any air from squeaking around the radiators at track speeds. This is very expensive to do as it means draining the coolant, removing the entire radiator pack, pulling off the stock soft foam and then cutting to size more rigid closed cell foam, fitting and gluing this in place. Then reinstalling the entire radiator pack, replacing the fluid, purging the air, etc.
This helped the engine temperature a little on the track but around town it’s not of much benefit as you can imagine.
At this point I’m of the opinion the stock muffler or even the Borla muffler are a major part of the problem.
I think the fix for high engine temperatures (and best bang for the buck) appear to be the following:
a) Install the Ida Automotive exhaust www.IdaAutomotive.com
I suspect this will drop peak high temperatures by 20 deg or more and keep the engine temperatures closer to 180-190 deg. Clearly Gino is very satisfied and his daily driver peak temperatures have dropped significantly. I would say this is sure to reduce those peak engine temperatures we’ve all experienced on the track too. The nice little bonus about this system is that it’s also proven to reduce intake air temperatures too therefore, prevent the resulting loss of HP and Torque.
b) Install the Trans Axle cooler. At might be possible that simply installing the Ida Automotive Exhaust will eliminate the Trans Axle overheating issue too for daily driving conditions. However, for track use I would still recommend this up grade.

I can’t wait to get the Ida exhaust on my car (should have it installed in about a month) and plan to be back on the track in June.

One last note. Before going on the track be sure to remove your rear license plate. This blocks air from getting out of the engine compartment. Every little bit can help.

 

[dbk]

Here is the scoop on the cooling:

1) the gauge is a "real-time" gauge - not a "dumb gauge" like most cars. Dumb gauges stay pegged in the middle of the zone, until temps go into the "overheat" zone - at which time they peg. Most of the time "dumb gauges" don't have values on them - just cold and hot zones. the GT's gauge is an actual real time measurement.
2) the car running 220-230 is completely normal. in traffic during summer - the gauge will read 220 often. especially if you don't have the AC on - which runs the high speed fans continuously.

For track use:
1) run with AC off - it will help the cooling pack temps.
2) if you are going to track the car often - you may want to consider installing an 06 front grill - which has a lower pressure drop across it than the 05 grill.

Thanks :cheers

 

[TrackDay]

Take your stock GT to the track for two days this summer and enjoy it (running it hard so to speak).
Watch your engine temperature gauge climb to 230-235 after two or three laps and remain up there for the duration of your track session (even flirting with 240).
When you get your car back send a sample of the engine oil and trans axle fluid out for analysis.
They will confirm what your engine temperature gauge reported earlier.
In one word it’s called overheated.
Then consider that driving your car around town produces the same engine temperatures!

True the 06 grill can help a little and it’s already on my 05 along with the trans axel cooler, rigid foam around the radiators, etc.
For significant reductions try the Ida Automotive exhaust.

 

[dbk]

I'm just the messenger! :cheers

 

[AMB]

You can HELP your PROBLEM, by having your COMPUTER reprogramed, to LOWER the FAN turn-on points !!

AMB

 

[TrackDay]

DBK, don’t take my last post as having been sharp in any way. This Forum provides valuable information not easily found in other places. Thanks!

Hi AMB, Before entering the track the car is warmed up, both fans are on. Turning the fans on earlier say before leaving the garage would have no effect on the final result. Heck pull out of the garage with an ice cold engine and the end effect will be the same. The car will reach operating temperature, the thermostat is full open, both fans are on and after two or three laps up, up, up goes the temperature and there it is 235! The system will loose the same ground as always, it will just take a minute or so longer before you see 235.

 

[barondw]

DBK, don’t take my last post as having been sharp in any way. This Forum provides valuable information not easily found in other places. Thanks!

Hi AMB, Before entering the track the car is warmed up, both fans are on. Turning the fans on earlier say before leaving the garage would have no effect on the final result. Heck pull out of the garage with an ice cold engine and the end effect will be the same. The car will reach operating temperature, the thermostat is full open, both fans are on and after two or three laps up, up, up goes the temperature and there it is 235! The system will loose the same ground as always, it will just take a minute or so longer before you see 235.

If you had a C5 Vette you would use a device like the rRedator to change the point where the fans come on and go off. When tracking my Z06 this helps to keep the temps lower as the fans start cooling earlier.

That is what AMB is talking about. But I do not know of any device to change the on/off points of the fans.

But without air flow through the engine compartment I don't think it will make much of a difference mainly because of the muffler.

Dave

 

[SuperB]

After installing the Borla, it seems my GT runs cooler, but I don't have specifics.

 

[Bart Carter]

I have tracked my FFR Cobra in 110 degrees. My temps never get over 212. One thing that is a helps is not running anti-freeze, but straight water. Water cools better than anti-freeze. You need to use a conditioner/anti-rust/lubricant such as a Prestone product or Water Wetter. You also need to be aware of your boiling point with the new mixture as it may differ from the anti-freeze mixture.

 

[Neilda]

I'm a little anxious about taking mine to the south of France in the summer - I'm thinking if it gets too hot I'll just whack up the aircon to hot and assume it'll take the heat out of the engine bay quite quickly. I'm told keeping the engine running is key to cooling (water pumps etc).

Trackday - forgive me if I've already asked you this (my mind is addled through years of sampling fine wines) - was your transaxle vent leaking before the radiator and is it now not leaking? I took mine out today and it's still leaking a lot of oil...

 

[barondw]

I have tracked my FFR Cobra in 110 degrees. My temps never get over 212. One thing that is a helps is not running anti-freeze, but straight water. Water cools better than anti-freeze. You need to use a conditioner/anti-rust/lubricant such as a Prestone product or Water Wetter. You also need to be aware of your boiling point with the new mixture as it may differ from the anti-freeze mixture.

While your observations are appreciated unfortunately its comparing apples and bananas.

Just about everyone who tracks the GT has the same high temp issues. Several have similar problems driving the car in traffic or just driving their car. Thus the two vehicles can't be objectively compared IMO.

A front engine car is also different and Cobras have air circulation in the engine compartment/bay which the GT doesn't.

Dave

 

[barondw]

I'm a little anxious about taking mine to the south of France in the summer - I'm thinking if it gets too hot I'll just whack up the aircon to hot and assume it'll take the heat out of the engine bay quite quickly. I'm told keeping the engine running is key to cooling (water pumps etc).

Trackday - forgive me if I've already asked you this (my mind is addled through years of sampling fine wines) - was your transaxle vent leaking before the radiator and is it now not leaking? I took mine out today and it's still leaking a lot of oil...

Neil

I have not have the car overheat but in high temps it does get hot as previously posted.

Dave

 

[Neilda]

Thanks for the reassurance Dave - I'm sure it'll be fine.

I'm feeling particularly in love with my red beauty today - just been driving it and then sitting at home this afternoon in some early spring sunshine admiring it's breathaking lines. The thought of the poor thing getting too hot worries me!

My poor old Astons are not getting much action since WMD was found! :cheers

 

[TrackDay]

Hi Neilda, Yes, my car leaked trans axle fluid prior to adding the cooler when driven on the street (and even more so when driven on the track). After adding the trans axle cooler it has not leaked a drop (on the street or on the track).
The issue of hot engine temperatures is a real big concern for me on the track but high temperatures are also noticeable if / when driven slowly during the summer (especially with the AC on). Mind you I’m not suggesting we stop driving our cars around town. Gosh I love this car so much you could not stop me from driving it on the street. However, when driving the car during the summer just keep an eye on the temperature gauge when kicking around at slow speeds for lengthy periods of time. I’ll report back here after putting the new exhaust on the car too.