I am thinking about replacing spark plugs. Does anyone know the correct socket size for replacing the plugs? Also, does this process require a torque wrench? If so, what setting? Thanks.
New Spark Plugs
- Thread starter PHXGT
- Start date
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
You are welcome
As for having all the answers; no however I remain willing to help and gather the the data which I do not have.
The process to swap the spark plugs is easy
I like the NGK TR7 IX as a replacement spark plug and then I gap them .028-.030
Regards
Shadowman
cobrar1339
GT Owner
cobrar1339
GT Owner
Actually snap on sells an extension/socket piece just for working on the mod ford. It locks the plug in tightly, but still has a tad of swivel to it so you can thread it.
Ed, I am not all that familiar witht he NGK numbers is why I asked.
But a quick note on the Iridium plugs
I have attended some mfg. tech sessions at Westech Perf Group. They do a lot of magazine tests and have some really cool equip. MSD had brought a device to test and show which spark plug was the best for a boosted application. I was the one that gathered all the plugs for the test. You could actually turn a dial to simulate cylinder pressure and boost.
Note: NGK had not yet released it's Iridium plug yet, so it was not tested.
1. Denso Iridium ....About 20% more than the number two
2. Beru Silver.......Just barely ahead of the NGK
3. NGK V groove
It's been a while so I would not accuratey represent the others correctly from Motorcraft, Autolite, AC Delco, Bosch, Splitfire, etc. I do remember the non platinum cheapest bosh version was on the very bottom. We figured it would not work well enough to put in a 10:1 motor like the LS1.
Bottomline.....Iridium worked best for high boost and cylinder pressure. Do you need it for your non- boosted car, no as you would just be tossing cash away IMO. All the majors did just fine up to 11:1 as I recall.
Ed, I am not all that familiar witht he NGK numbers is why I asked.
But a quick note on the Iridium plugs
I have attended some mfg. tech sessions at Westech Perf Group. They do a lot of magazine tests and have some really cool equip. MSD had brought a device to test and show which spark plug was the best for a boosted application. I was the one that gathered all the plugs for the test. You could actually turn a dial to simulate cylinder pressure and boost.
Note: NGK had not yet released it's Iridium plug yet, so it was not tested.
1. Denso Iridium ....About 20% more than the number two
2. Beru Silver.......Just barely ahead of the NGK
3. NGK V groove
It's been a while so I would not accuratey represent the others correctly from Motorcraft, Autolite, AC Delco, Bosch, Splitfire, etc. I do remember the non platinum cheapest bosh version was on the very bottom. We figured it would not work well enough to put in a 10:1 motor like the LS1.
Bottomline.....Iridium worked best for high boost and cylinder pressure. Do you need it for your non- boosted car, no as you would just be tossing cash away IMO. All the majors did just fine up to 11:1 as I recall.
analogdesigner
GT Owner
electric field very high!
Yes,
The tiny iridium electrode diameter makes the electric field very high, meaning that the propability of igniting the air/fuel mix is highest. Shadowman's recomendation of a tighter gap should be taken seriously. This is even more important if a pulley swap or throttle body update has been done, which increases cylinder pressure.
Jay
GTsaver
Yes,
The tiny iridium electrode diameter makes the electric field very high, meaning that the propability of igniting the air/fuel mix is highest. Shadowman's recomendation of a tighter gap should be taken seriously. This is even more important if a pulley swap or throttle body update has been done, which increases cylinder pressure.
Jay
GTsaver
Kingman
GT Owner
usmcfred
GT Owner
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
Shadow, would you use the .028 - .030 gap on a car with the Heffner 2.7 pully/93 tune?
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
The difference is minimal at best and likely would not be noticed however I would gap them at .028
All the best
Shadowmman
06fordgt
GT
Shadowman I will be tuning (tune from Tony G) the car soon for the accufab throttle body and X-pipe as well as to run on 94 octane. Would you change the stock plugs to the NGK iridium ones? Also what would the gap be? Later I will do the pulley. Is the gap the same then?
:cheers
:cheers
Last edited:
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Thank you for asking
YES; I would change them to the NGK 7 IX and then gap them to .028; no question in my mind on this one
All the best and enjoy your gal after the tweaks; you will be very happy with that which TonY G does for you
Takes care
Shadowman
Silverbullitt
GT Owner
I use 2 sockets when changing plugs on a 4 valve mod motor. I use the Craftsman spark plug socket with the foam inside to remove and just to start when replacing the plug. Then I torque with a standard deep socket so when I'm ready to pull the socket out there is no drag and possibility of losing the socket down in the hole. It works great.
SYCO GT
GT Owner
What (brand) tools are you using to measure and properly gap the plugs themselves?
I found this nice chart comparing plug types online from a non-sponsor called RPM, and then ordered the Iridium NGK TR71x plugs through Torrie M., as he stocks them, and ships things fast and efficiently and always provides helpful insight.
Bill, what gap do you recommend for accufab throttle body and exhaust, 91 octane pump gas, and heffner 2.7 pulley and tune?
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/ngkinfoi.htm
I found this nice chart comparing plug types online from a non-sponsor called RPM, and then ordered the Iridium NGK TR71x plugs through Torrie M., as he stocks them, and ships things fast and efficiently and always provides helpful insight.
Bill, what gap do you recommend for accufab throttle body and exhaust, 91 octane pump gas, and heffner 2.7 pulley and tune?
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/ngkinfoi.htm
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BlackICE
GT Owner
I have a Whipple with 19 to 21 PSI boost and gap to about 0.028" My wire gages only reads 0.025 and 0.030 and I set it so that the 30 is a no go and the 25 is a loose fit. With less boost with just a pulley you can gap to 0.030" or maybe up to 0.035" without problems. If you gap too large you will have spark blowup in the upper RPM range under high boost.
An interesting side note, about 2 years ago Tony G was out on the west coast do some dyno tuning with Shadowman. I had my car on the dyno and Tony said it was running bad on the top end (I was down over 80 HP) probably from bad plugs. I was running the TR7IX plugs with about 4K miles on them. Later I swapped them out problem went away. The plugs look fine but obviously they were not. I was surprised at the short lifespan of these premium iridium plugs. Now I change them before any track or dyno session to be on the safe side.
An interesting side note, about 2 years ago Tony G was out on the west coast do some dyno tuning with Shadowman. I had my car on the dyno and Tony said it was running bad on the top end (I was down over 80 HP) probably from bad plugs. I was running the TR7IX plugs with about 4K miles on them. Later I swapped them out problem went away. The plugs look fine but obviously they were not. I was surprised at the short lifespan of these premium iridium plugs. Now I change them before any track or dyno session to be on the safe side.
SYCO GT
GT Owner
Thanks BlackICE, my measurements of each plug from the factory, shows approximately 0.035"
Probably will gap them down to 0.032" - 0.030", and will see if anyone has additional comments.
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HeritageBruce
GT Owner
Randy,
I have the gapping tool and can gap the plugs for you. I changed my plugs to the TR7's last year and gapped them to a hair under .03. Now with 716 RWHP running the 91 octane map, no pinging and no misfires.
I have the gapping tool and can gap the plugs for you. I changed my plugs to the TR7's last year and gapped them to a hair under .03. Now with 716 RWHP running the 91 octane map, no pinging and no misfires.