Hose support SS springs

[Fubar]

I have spoken to a friend of mine who has tested many different coolant variations (water/coolant/glycerol/water wetter/ect...). He has done this both on the track and on engine dynos. He stated that water by itself conducts heat away from the engine better than any other coolant he tested. However anti-freeze or water wetter give the water pump a necessary lubricant (and as an added bonus anti-oxidant). If you can maintain pressure in a system water can be effective well above 240.

The point here is: I wouldn't use Evans because I doubt it has ability to transfer heat away from your engine as well a 20/80 coolant solution. And BlackIce is one the money when he says the ECU will start to deal with the heat in a way you won’t like. You could reprogram the ECU but if you are gona go for broke you might as well rip off the AC and put on a real radiator and thereby solve the cooling problem once and for all.

 

[DRIVEBY]

Well said Guys - I am relatively new to the track, so this thread gives me a wealth of information. Last year (running on standard coolant), I ran hot enough to trip the popoff spray valve at about 238F. This year with the Evans coolant I have been upwards of 242F a few times with no adverse affects such as power loss, ECU problems, or spraying the engine bay with coolant. But, I am leary (read - very nervous) to take the engine temp into the red zone in fear of catastrophic damage. Plus all this heat is melting my Whipple labels. :wink

 

[Accufab]

The stainless steel hose supports (Accufab springs) do exactly what they were designed to do. They insure that the hose doesn't collapse when the water pump is pumping at a high RPM. There is no way that the coolant (any coolant) can do what it's supposed to do when the hoses restrict the waterflow. One other thing about "heat". Horsepower is heat. To create additional horsepower you are going to need to create more heat. More HP is the result of a bigger explosion in the combustion chamber and a bigger "bang" is going to create more heat. Everything that we do to increase the HP (speeding up the blower, bigger superchargers, better exhaust, etc.) will increase the heat. Internal engine heat is your friend. Excess heat is not and can lead to detonation and other calamities. Our testing concludes that keeping the coolant path open (and the hoses from collapseing), and the normal coolant is as good as you are going to get with the present OEM GT set-up. Maybe a larger capacity radiator or better airflow through it will help, don't know, never tried it. Also never had a excess heat problem either once the hoses were stiffend up.

George Klass

 

[Tungsten]

Track Update Daytona

Just finished three days at Daytona on the full Rolex course. I have the pulley upgrade, fan on earlier, Kinetics exhaust, Accufab springs in the cooling lines. Running water and anti freeze at factory suggested levels.

Car runs 170 or so on the street, 200 when sitting at lights for awhile in 80 degree weather.

Ran the car at Daytona and after 4 or 5 laps temps would climb to 230. When they reached 230 I backed off a couple of laps and they would fall to 200 and I could hit it again for a few laps.

Temps outside were mid 70's. Lot's of full throttle application, more than any track I have ever been on. Big speed!!!

Results with the springs are better, but not the overall answer in my opinion.
I think John is correct when he says we need a better cooling system. Hopefully we can gain something from the racing GT's that are coming out in ALMS. Robertson racing is here at Road Atlanta so I will stay close to them to see what they are doing to keep it cool.
Tungsten

 

[nz05gt]

We have raced ours in one 6hr endurance race and 2 x 4hr races only stopping for fuel [120litres] temps never get over 180 degrees no matter what the outside temp is.
Unfortunatly the fix is not what you will want to here.
The cooling system itself is stock but I have removed the air con and the centre hump from the front hood,in behind this hump you can see 30% off the air flow coming out off the radiator has know where to go because the perforated plate on the rear of the radiator is not perforated because of the hoods center hump blocks of the air flow anyway.
So in my humble opinion the factory radiators and piping is fine it is the lack of air flow exiting the radiators that is the problem.
I know you guys don't want to remove your air con etc but it gives you an idea of where the problem lies for racing or hard driving.
Hope this helps some
:cheers
Neil
NZ05GT

 

[BlackICE]

The cooling system itself is stock but I have removed the air con and the centre hump from the front hood,in behind this hump you can see 30% off the air flow coming out off the radiator has know where to go because the perforated plate on the rear of the radiator is not perforated because of the hoods center hump blocks of the air flow anyway.
:cheers
Neil
NZ05GT

Thanks for your insight on the air flow. I never even gave it a thought, but now it is obvious.

I sounds like Stormcat need to make a CF racing version of the trunk lid with the center cut out. Of course you lose storage in the trunk, but it wasn't that big anyway.

 

[fjpikul]

Lose what storage? The inside of the trunk is flat and not molded to the outside shape. Anybody try running without the trunk liner?

 

[nz05gt]

Thanks for your insight on the air flow. I never even gave it a thought, but now it is obvious.

I sounds like Stormcat need to make a CF racing version of the trunk lid with the center cut out. Of course you lose storage in the trunk, but it wasn't that big anyway.

BlackICE just remember that the the perferated plate between the hood and the radiator is also blocked ;ie the centre section the shape of the middle hump in the hood has no perferated hole so just removing the hump will not help much.just lift up your hood and look back at the radiator in front of the hood you will see what I meen.
:cheers
Neil

 

[BlackICE]

BlackICE just remember that the the perferated plate between the hood and the radiator is also blocked ;ie the centre section the shape of the middle hump in the hood has no perferated hole so just removing the hump will not help much.just lift up your hood and look back at the radiator in front of the hood you will see what I meen.
:cheers
Neil

Yes, I know that. The hole is an easier problem than a new trunk lid. The center section can be cut out with a sawzall (I seen photos of the pros at Genaddi using one on a GT, seems to be the tools of choice) and a new screens made to cover the whole area. If the car still overheats the next step would be to consider removing the A/C condensor.

 

[Tungsten]

Heat

Neil,
Thanks for that insight. It makes sense.
Don

 

[STORMCAT]

Now taking orders for custom hoods ...:biggrin:biggrin:biggrin

 

[BlackICE]

Now taking orders for custom hoods ...:biggrin:biggrin:biggrin

You, mean the ones with a full center cutout for cooling?

 

[fjpikul]

What colors do you offer? Where's the bottle holders???????