Halfshaft Bolt Answers (all threads merged)


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abolfaz

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jan 11, 2006
827
Coral Gables
I don't know if this was mentioned before, but I over heard some gt owners at the meet last friday discussing the fact that the local ford dealer was getting bolts from a local wholesaler and having them machined to the right size. So much for waiting on parts...
 

Beach-GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
May 8, 2006
887
Seminole Florida
Changed Today

I had the new washer and bolts put in at Ford today and the ones in the car were of the new type. 2006 #40313 Now they are lock tighted and torqued properly so we'll see what happens.:thumbsup
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,545
Greenwood, IN
ARP Bolts

Ok, so I have read all the posts since notra4re first posted his intention on getting ARP to make us owners some special bolts for our transaxles…but are the bolts available, soon to be available, or put on hold pending some other “research”??? The people at ARP know bolts, how to process them and the correct material selections. Note, I have no financial interest (or otherwise in ARP). I have just used their products in the past and studied their technical catalogue. They are a premier bolt producer and well recognized. Nota4re, what is the story as to availability? Incidentally thanks for the great pictures in posting #387 showing the various combinations. Very helpful.

Some of the other contributors have tried to help but some of you miss the mark in understanding fasteners.

Shadowman (“The harder the bolt the less it will bend..... in fact at the extreme end of being hardened they will not bend at all but rather snap like a dried twig.”)…well maybe,… it depends on the loading. True, higher strength bolts tend to have LOWER elongation (not bending) than lower strength bolts, however any bolt will “snap like a dried twig” at a high enough load. Tensile load that is, not fatigue loading. Typical engineering practice is to torque a fastener to a high enough preload such that the bolt never experiences any fluctuating load at all. In a fluctuating load bolted environment you DO NOT WANT separation of the two bolted surfaces and thus transfer of all of the fluctuating load into the bolt. That is highly undesirable. Thus you preload the bolt to the maximum load just short of yield. Typically 90% of bolt material yield strength (ref Shigley, Mechanical Engineering Design). Certainly do NOT back off of recommended torques as some have posted (post #386).

Gimbal (“only thing I observed was that the 2 bolts seemed over torqued”). What does this mean? Was the break-away torque measured? Break-away torques will always be higher than torque up due to: Static friction under the bolt head is higher than “rolling friction” during torque up. It takes more torque to get the head turning when static than keep it turning while being turned during initial torque. These bolts may have locktite on the threads from the factory which skews the break-away torque necessary or feel.

(“The fully threaded bolt is also a no good thing and I replaced with bolts with a filleted radius at the bolt head.”) The fully threaded bolt DOES have a transition fillet from the thread to the integral washer surface. See picture #5 (posting #387) from nota4re showing the transition fillet on the M8 G12.9 factory Allen head bolt. This fillet is a very important aspect of a bolt design. Typically bolt manufacturers put as large or generous a fillet in this transition region as possible to increase fatigue resistance of the bolt in addition to “rolling” this fillet to impart compressive residual stresses in the fillet which again benefits fatigue resistance. ARP does this (as do others) as well as rolling threads which again benefits fatigue resistance. From a tensile overload perspective the bolt is limited in load capability to the “tensile area” of the thread. This area is well known and tabulate for each thread and is slightly larger than the thread area using the root diameter and less than using the mean thread diameter.

(“would assume both axle and hub flange expand at about the same rate as temp increases. In fact it might not be a good idea for one to expand more than the other, this itself could cause high stresses, etc. I am sure Ford knows or could easily figure out if the splines and slop is excessive per the design.”) I am certain Ford as well as Riccardo engineers have accounted for the thermal expansion of their constituent components. Incidentally that is why we have difficulty initially shifting from first to second gear with the transaxle below operating temperatures. The designers know about this and for the transaxle accounted for the thermal growths in the gear meshing to be precise AT temperature. I do not think the transaxle bolt problem is temperature related.

Analogdesigner (“Fortunately, the ARP 300 alloy is very similar to 17-4 ph stainless. It's acceptable to machine any amount from the outside of the integral head/washer, since the material properties will not be affected. This is not a heat treatable alloy, so this is why we can get away with doing this.”) The ARP catalog says “Stainless Steel: Ideally suited for many automotive and marine applications because stainless is tolerant of heat and virtually impervious to rust and corrosion. ARP ‘Stainless 300’ is specially alloyed for extra durability. It’s polished using a proprietary process to produce a beautiful finish. Tensile strength is typically rated at 170,000 psi”. Although the catalogue does not comment on the material heat treat (undoubtedly proprietary) the typical solution heat treat for 300 series stainless is 1850 – 2050F / cool rapidly in air or water followed by 1550 – 1650F / air cool. 17-4PH is a “Precipitation Hardening Stainless Steel” with a typical heat treatment (for AMS 5643 bars and forgings) of 1900F 30 minutes air cool or oil quench to below 90F, followed by a precipitation hardening temperature of 900F – 1200F for 4 hours. Not clear as to your statement that these metals are “not a heat treatable alloy”. Clearly they are.

(“The integral washer in the 12 pt. fastener will be far more vibration resistant and fatigue resistant than a socket head fastener. This is due to the increased surface area compared to the socket head fastener. This is probably good news for all of us!”) The fatigue resistance of the bolt comes from its preload, material selection, thread properties and shank fillet properties, not the type of torquing head on the bolt. It is the tensile load carried in the bolt itself which resists component separation. I have not see in literature any perceived fatigue benefit of a threaded fastener prefaced on whether the head was a 6-point, 12-point or internal hex head. Could you cite the basis?

(I will carefully calculate the proper torque value, because on a car with a "good" spline fit, the fastener should be torqued to >75% of it's yield strength. Note: this is much higher than Ford recommends...”). You are CORRECT!! Now get the load up to +90% of YTS and we are cooking. Be careful though of what thread lube is used as the lubricant can significantly alter thread friction and thus load into the bolt such that you can unintentionally exceed the 90% target!

I do not mean to pick on any contributors, just trying to clarify as to certain technical issues. As one contributor pointed out, the more thoughts brought forward for thought and discussion, the better we are in finally determining the “root cause” of OUR problem.
 

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Ok, so I have read all the posts since notra4re first posted his intention on getting ARP to make us owners some special bolts for our transaxles…but are the bolts available, soon to be available, or put on hold pending some other “research”??? The people at ARP know bolts, how to process them and the correct material selections. Note, I have no financial interest (or otherwise in ARP). I have just used their products in the past and studied their technical catalogue. They are a premier bolt producer and well recognized. Nota4re, what is the story as to availability? Incidentally thanks for the great pictures in posting #387 showing the various combinations. Very helpful.

Some of the other contributors have tried to help but some of you miss the mark in understanding fasteners.

Shadowman (“The harder the bolt the less it will bend..... in fact at the extreme end of being hardened they will not bend at all but rather snap like a dried twig.”)…well maybe,… it depends on the loading. True, higher strength bolts tend to have LOWER elongation (not bending) than lower strength bolts, however any bolt will “snap like a dried twig” at a high enough load. Tensile load that is, not fatigue loading. Typical engineering practice is to torque a fastener to a high enough preload such that the bolt never experiences any fluctuating load at all. In a fluctuating load bolted environment you DO NOT WANT separation of the two bolted surfaces and thus transfer of all of the fluctuating load into the bolt. That is highly undesirable. Thus you preload the bolt to the maximum load just short of yield. Typically 90% of bolt material yield strength (ref Shigley, Mechanical Engineering Design). Certainly do NOT back off of recommended torques as some have posted (post #386).

Gimbal (“only thing I observed was that the 2 bolts seemed over torqued”). What does this mean? Was the break-away torque measured? Break-away torques will always be higher than torque up due to: Static friction under the bolt head is higher than “rolling friction” during torque up. It takes more torque to get the head turning when static than keep it turning while being turned during initial torque. These bolts may have locktite on the threads from the factory which skews the break-away torque necessary or feel.

(“The fully threaded bolt is also a no good thing and I replaced with bolts with a filleted radius at the bolt head.”) The fully threaded bolt DOES have a transition fillet from the thread to the integral washer surface. See picture #5 (posting #387) from nota4re showing the transition fillet on the M8 G12.9 factory Allen head bolt. This fillet is a very important aspect of a bolt design. Typically bolt manufacturers put as large or generous a fillet in this transition region as possible to increase fatigue resistance of the bolt in addition to “rolling” this fillet to impart compressive residual stresses in the fillet which again benefits fatigue resistance. ARP does this (as do others) as well as rolling threads which again benefits fatigue resistance. From a tensile overload perspective the bolt is limited in load capability to the “tensile area” of the thread. This area is well known and tabulate for each thread and is slightly larger than the thread area using the root diameter and less than using the mean thread diameter.

(“would assume both axle and hub flange expand at about the same rate as temp increases. In fact it might not be a good idea for one to expand more than the other, this itself could cause high stresses, etc. I am sure Ford knows or could easily figure out if the splines and slop is excessive per the design.”) I am certain Ford as well as Riccardo engineers have accounted for the thermal expansion of their constituent components. Incidentally that is why we have difficulty initially shifting from first to second gear with the transaxle below operating temperatures. The designers know about this and for the transaxle accounted for the thermal growths in the gear meshing to be precise AT temperature. I do not think the transaxle bolt problem is temperature related.

Analogdesigner (“Fortunately, the ARP 300 alloy is very similar to 17-4 ph stainless. It's acceptable to machine any amount from the outside of the integral head/washer, since the material properties will not be affected. This is not a heat treatable alloy, so this is why we can get away with doing this.”) The ARP catalog says “Stainless Steel: Ideally suited for many automotive and marine applications because stainless is tolerant of heat and virtually impervious to rust and corrosion. ARP ‘Stainless 300’ is specially alloyed for extra durability. It’s polished using a proprietary process to produce a beautiful finish. Tensile strength is typically rated at 170,000 psi”. Although the catalogue does not comment on the material heat treat (undoubtedly proprietary) the typical solution heat treat for 300 series stainless is 1850 – 2050F / cool rapidly in air or water followed by 1550 – 1650F / air cool. 17-4PH is a “Precipitation Hardening Stainless Steel” with a typical heat treatment (for AMS 5643 bars and forgings) of 1900F 30 minutes air cool or oil quench to below 90F, followed by a precipitation hardening temperature of 900F – 1200F for 4 hours. Not clear as to your statement that these metals are “not a heat treatable alloy”. Clearly they are.

(“The integral washer in the 12 pt. fastener will be far more vibration resistant and fatigue resistant than a socket head fastener. This is due to the increased surface area compared to the socket head fastener. This is probably good news for all of us!”) The fatigue resistance of the bolt comes from its preload, material selection, thread properties and shank fillet properties, not the type of torquing head on the bolt. It is the tensile load carried in the bolt itself which resists component separation. I have not see in literature any perceived fatigue benefit of a threaded fastener prefaced on whether the head was a 6-point, 12-point or internal hex head. Could you cite the basis?

(I will carefully calculate the proper torque value, because on a car with a "good" spline fit, the fastener should be torqued to >75% of it's yield strength. Note: this is much higher than Ford recommends...”). You are CORRECT!! Now get the load up to +90% of YTS and we are cooking. Be careful though of what thread lube is used as the lubricant can significantly alter thread friction and thus load into the bolt such that you can unintentionally exceed the 90% target!

I do not mean to pick on any contributors, just trying to clarify as to certain technical issues. As one contributor pointed out, the more thoughts brought forward for thought and discussion, the better we are in finally determining the “root cause” of OUR problem.


WOW

You did a great job of compiling and addressing many issues.

I for one remains at bay hoping that a final cure is presented however in the mean time will install a fresh set of hardware methodically installed and hope for the best.

In closing I do not think that anyone truly has the final answer and yet this has been an interesting thread where many have shared data points, personal experiences and ideas which IMO is one of the reasons that this Forum is considered “thumbs up”

Thank you again for the time spent sharing your observations and opinions

All the best

Shadowman
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Good info!

Here is a page with recommend torque values.

http://tpub.com/content/filters/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm

If you are using locktight is that considered oiled threads?

It seems that the old silver washers were not up to the Ford torque values, since most of these are found bent. I don't know if the newer black washers have enough strength for higher torques either.
 

analogdesigner

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 15, 2005
950
San Clemente, CA USA
ARP fasteners

I need to correct what I has said earlier about the ARP fasteners. Their alloy is actually closer to an 18-8, 18% Cr and 8% Ni. This grade cannot be heat treated for increasing hardness, however, it can be annealed. ARP increases the strength of their material by drawing the material down to a smaller diameter prior to forming it.

17-4 ph can be heat treated and that is not what ARP uses. I got some mis-information from a friend and I must of been smokin' crack to believe him... :ack

Now, I have just finished machining a pair of retaining washers from 17-4 ph SS and I will be heat treating them tomorrow.

Images to come soon,

Jay
 
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FlorIdaho Chris

Yeah, I've got one.
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Thanks for the write up Bill. Very informative. :thumbsup
 

nota4re

GT Owner
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Feb 15, 2006
4,291
All,

In one of the later posts in this marathon thread, I respectfully "backed out" of my initial Good Samaritan roll to provide upgraded bolts. The principal reason was that I discovered in this thread that John at Accufab had already invested and had some of the bolts already on order with an availability date prior to what I could do. Further, and I don't blame him, John did this as a small business venture and will look to profit from his efforts. I still consider myself more as an owner and not a vendor, so I had been willing to foot the $ and get this done for all of my compadres. The trouble is there is no way that I could blame owners for needing/wanting and paying for John's solution prior to the availability of what I wanted to do at no cost. The net would be that I would be left with an unpredictable amount of inventory without recovery. What sealed the deal is that the ARP bolts won't fit. (See previously posted pictures.) Also, the ARP bolts are very similar in design to the factory bolts in that both have a VERY small non-threaded shoulder before the bolt head. The longer shouldered ARP bolts are too long, and don't think that this can be addressed by a thicker washer (see below).

Simultaneously, I began to again have doubts that anyone really understood all of the constraints in designing an interim or final solution.

By example, several people (including myself) thought that the ARP bolts were a good interim, if not final, solution. Clearly, from my pictures they will not physically fit (without modification). Second, some have talked about thicker washers. That too sounds good on the surface, but when you really look into the design there is NO ROOM between the head of the Allen bolts that are there and the CV cap on the end of the halfshaft that fits into the flange void. This significantly compromises the ability to use thicker washers and/or bolts and special, relief-type washers.

In summary (is anybody still reading this?) the silver bullet doesn't exist as an off the shelf or custom-ordered part from ARP or anyone else (best we know). So, let's see if John does, in fact, release a solution with bolts that fit and which are appreciably stronger (I have doubts based on the tensile strength comparisons) AND with a thicker, presumably stronger, washer that also fits within the aforementioned constraints.

All that said - I'll let on to what *I believe* is the root problem in a subsequent post... and how/why I believe that the bolt/washer upgrade *may* help to mask/hide the problem but does little to solve it. In short, I believe the existing, Ford-supplied washer and new bolt package will prove out to be as good of a band-aid as anything else I've heard/read about. Obviously, this is the opinion of one individual and all of us a owners should evaluate and form our own conclusions.
 
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analogdesigner

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 15, 2005
950
San Clemente, CA USA
spacing question

By example, several people (including myself) thought that the ARP bolts were a good interim, if not final, solution. Clearly, from my pictures they will not physically fit (without modification). Second, some have talked about thicker washers. That too sounds good on the surface, but when you really look into the design there is NO ROOM between the head of the Allen bolts that are there and the CV cap on the end of the halfshaft that fits into the flange void. This significantly compromises the ability to use thicker washers and/or bolts and special, relief-type washers.
Kendall,

How much room do you think there is between the top of the socket head fasteners and the end of the halfshaft that you mention? Also, what about the other side, the distance between the washer and splined axle from inside the transaxle unit? I think that you are saying that it's a real tight fit in there, in both directions???

Thanks,

Jay
 

nota4re

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Feb 15, 2006
4,291
Jay,

I think that there's something like 1 to 2 mm max. That's not a terrible precise measurement (sorry) but I had to button my car up before I could get the right tool to do a better measurement. It's tight. Also, in one of the previous posts in this same thread, someone else commented about this measurement.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
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Feb 15, 2006
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Regarding my theory on the root cause of the transaxle bolt failure:

It is important that the flange is mounted in a position such that both statically and under load conditions, the flange face remains precisely perpendicular to the axis of the output shaft. However, because of the design, the flange cup is floating off of the end of the output shaft. In particular, there is a physical gap between the backside of the washer and the end of the splined shaft. By the way, this gap is what has allowed the washer to bow as many people with the failure (and those who have done pre-emptive replacement) have discovered. In most applications a bolt or bolts through a washer secure a washer down hard AGAINST a surface and the load is spread throughout the resulting contact patch. Not so with our application. Instead, and without this contact patch, the bolts are asked to do a lot.

So, the question is if there is a way to precisely shim this gap - while still maintaining the same seating surface the flange uses now. This technique would require removal of the flange and then re-installation and torquing with plasti-gauge or equivalent. The flange would then need to be removed once again and the plasti-gauge would indicate the precise gap at the requisite installed torque setting. The flange could finally be installed for a final time using a shim-set to eliminate the gap.

End of theory.
 

Gulf GT

GT Owner
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Feb 9, 2006
1,539
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Kendall, excellent theory. From your description of finding the gap, it sounds like each tranny could possibly require a slightly different shim set. Or are you thinking one set would work for all?
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,545
Greenwood, IN
Kendall Therory

Kendall and Jay.

Again, thank you both for your efforts to describe, understand and help solve this issue. You both have a good technical understanding of the mechanics. I agree with Shadowman, the knowledge and diversity of the Forum participants is really astounding. We are all fortunate that Dave (DBK) has provided this medium for us to talk technical or social about our passion for the GT.

And Kendall, I understand backing away from championing just the ARP bolts when John at Accufab was working on his own design to fix the problem. I would certainly be interested in buying his kit (washers and bolts) when he is satisfied with his design. My ’06 (S/N 909) has not had the Ford service kit installed nor has it given me any problems (3500 miles) but I am still concerned as many of us are about the future.

Hopefully the engineers at Ford are reviewing the issue but with as small a failure population as has been reported to DBK, I am not sure a factory “solution” will be forthcoming quickly. And yes Dave I understand Ford cannot respond overnight. I appreciate you conveying the data to the appropriate technical or managerial people. We shall all have to wait and see.

Nota4re’s theory seems very plausible. Not having had my car apart but having studied the service manual diagrams, and the many pictures posted on the Forum, he is correct, if a gap exists between the inner face of the washer and the output shaft, the bolts are being asked to perform in a very atypical manner. Perhaps shimming is the answer. A good bolted design should not have a gap between the two bolted surfaces.

John, keep us posted on your progress to solving the bolt issue….
 

KMCBOSS

RED GT owner
Mark II Lifetime
Dec 3, 2006
995
Bremerton, Washington
Be carefull chasing ghosts. IMHO we need to determine if the problem was nothing more than an over torque of the bolts holding the washer. The shaft design may well be adaquate - people/assembly processes may have been the problem.
 

hemidoc

GT Owner
Sep 8, 2006
26
Ottawa, Canada
Has anyone installed the Accufab bolt kit? Allan
 

B O N Y

MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
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Fresno, Ca.
Be carefull chasing ghosts. IMHO we need to determine if the problem was nothing more than an over torque of the bolts holding the washer. The shaft design may well be adaquate - people/assembly processes may have been the problem.

JUST WHAT I HAVE BEEN THINKING ALL ALONG...:bored
 

fjpikul

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Bony, you are wonderful.
 

conundrum

GT Owner
Feb 7, 2007
61
Kentucky
OK, how about a bottom line based on current info?

What is the best thing to do at this point?

I have about 7,000 miles on my GT with no problems yet. Went for a round trip drive between Lexington and Cincinnati yesterday but must admit sitting on the roadside at night with a half shaft problem was in the back of my mind.

Should I go to the dealer, have the half shafts inspected and seek any currently available kit from Ford if there is a problem? Is that the best that can be done at this point? Thanks for your input.
 

B O N Y

MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 5, 2005
12,110
Fresno, Ca.
What is the best thing to do at this point?

I have about 7,000 miles on my GT with no problems yet. Went for a round trip drive between Lexington and Cincinnati yesterday but must admit sitting on the roadside at night with a half shaft problem was in the back of my mind.

Should I go to the dealer, have the half shafts inspected and seek any currently available kit from Ford if there is a problem? Is that the best that can be done at this point? Thanks for your input.

I don't think you can inspect the bolts, unless one is backing out, as was in my case. Once the bolts and washers are removed they must be replaced. Correct me guys if I am off base.
 

Gimbal

GT Owner
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Jan 11, 2007
204
Queenstown, New Zealand
Hello everyone, just back from New Zealand on a little vacation. I would suggest Queenstown as a good place to go. It is summer down there, long warm days and lots to do, bring lots of money though. Interesting how there are no signal lights, just round-a-bouts. Once you get the hang of them they work pretty good. Left hand driving a little funky too.

Comment to Indy GT: The bolts I took off looked over torqued because the underside of the head was real shinny and the edges were a bit mushroomed, the washer also was shinny where the bolt head touched. I now think the bolts were not necessarily over torqued, but since I had noticed a lot of axial spline backlash I think the bolt head and washer, along with the flange were moving under some loads. The way the design works is the two bolts tighten up the washer to the flange pushing the flange tight up against the inner axle bearing race. Since there is backlash in the splines these two bolts are trying to keep the flange from moving within its spline backlash. Seems like the wrong way to do it.

nota4re has the idea of shimming away the space between the washer and axle ( I measured about .025" gap). If this space is shimmed away, what will prevent the flange from flopping around in its backlash? Is it ok to have the flange flopping around in its backlash? If so, would the splines need to be greased occasionally to allow the flange to flop around?

I don't know how other similar axle designs attach the flange to the axles. Is there, for instance a gap between the washer and axle? Do they shim away the gap? Does the flange flop around in its own backlash?

Seems there would be less load on the bolt heads if the flange were allowed to flop around but as it flopped around it would wear on the splines, washer and inner race of the bearing if it were not lubricated.

I think the original Ford bolts are fine, they do have a small radius at the head and they are not 100% fully threaded and they are strong (12.9 grade). I replaced with a similar bolt but with a much larger radius at the head. I do think the bolts are being overloaded some how or fatigued, so a slightly stronger bolt replacement is not the answer. You need a bolt 10 times stronger, not 20% stronger.

I have asked for someone who has had a broken bolt to send to me so I could get it analysed for overloading or fatiguing. No one has made any broken bolts available. It would be a simple thing to confirm the actual failure mechanism of the bolts.

I think the answer to our axle problem is finding the right way to attach the flange to the axle. Let's say there was a whole lotta backlash in the splines, or let's say no splines, just a round axle and round flange hole. Then the two bolts tightend up against the washer would be the only thing preventing the flange from rotating on the axle or taking up backlash in the splines. Since there will always be some backlash in the splines there has to be a way for the backlash to be taken up when needed. The drive shaft of most rear drive cars have their splines slide back and forth allowing relative movement which prevents stresses and loads from building up. Imagine the drive shaft bolted solid with two small bolts, eventually something is going to break. I know the CV joint allows axial movement but since there are large loads coming from the tranny thru the axle the flange takes this load, if the backlash gets taken up under those loads then eventually something is going to give and break. The less the backlash the better, but you don't want thermal expansion to overload if the backlash is too little.

Thanks,
John
 
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