Hello all. New member here. Has anyone had a low hanging door on their gal? I have alot of slop on the driver door (lifts up and down, when opened, about 1/2" or more). Wondering if the housing is wore or the pins need replacing. Any thoughts?
Hello all. New member here. Has anyone had a low hanging door on their gal? I have alot of slop on the driver door (lifts up and down, when opened, about 1/2" or more). Wondering if the housing is wore or the pins need replacing. Any thoughts?
How about lose (missing?) hinge bolts? It's waaaaaaaaaaaaay too soon for the pins to have worn out ...even if the car's serial # is "1" and there's 100,000 miles on the car!
The hinge seems to be tight and fastened securely, there is just some movement within the housing where the hinge comes together. I purchased this car last summer from a friend. He is a pretty big guy. I assumed that the door was used as a lift assist in getting out of the car:frown.
how many miles on the car, any body work? I have this on my car I tried replacing the pins and that did not solve the problem, so after I replaced the pins then I just gently lifted on the door to move is back up. this works well for a while then the door settles and requires a gentle lift from time to time, when the gt guys come down next time Im going to have them look at it.
Check to see if the TWO TEETH that the top of the door sandwich with. There is some adjustment there and I have seen those make the door move up and down before....
To Shelby's point....
is the slop experienced when the door closes to the teeth at top? or...
the damn thing just moves up and down 1/2 inch when it's in wide open mode?
My thoughts are if there is "slop" in the hinge assembly around the pins it could be that the bushings are missing because someone had the door off and didn't reassemble it correctly. I know I always think the worst. Or if there is no "slop" and the door has dropped a little it is probably because the door was used as a handle to assist getting in and out of the car and it tweaked the door where the hinge bolts to it. If that is the case then the door just needs to be repositioned a little to fit properly again. Then the stricker and the "batwing", as we call it, will need to be readjusted again. I like to think of adjusting doors on a GT an art form.
For example if you are replacing a door assembly on any GT you can not set gaps and margins until the door is completly built. If you do this before all of the glass, regualtor, etc is installed it will be a little high and you will have to readjust everything once the correct weight is on the door. In development they actually had to put extra strength in the chassis a-pillar to compensate for the total weight of the door because some of the prototypes doors were sagging.