change oil in ford gt 2005

[2112]

What the hell? I can’t believe a how bad that is. Just insane.

+1

Are you positive nothing got hurt?
.

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

I bought Kendalls res valve kit few months ago and now waiting for a new oil pressure sending unit to come in (his recomedation to change it out, its been well behaved for months now)
Its been bloody ages simce I ordered it and still waiting.... you'd think it would be an easy part to find, but no.
I look forward to popping my GT oil change cherry, sometime this year.

Stuart

 

[GT@50]

I bought Kendalls res valve kit few months ago and now waiting for a new oil pressure sending unit to come in (his recomedation to change it out, its been well behaved for months now)
Its been bloody ages simce I ordered it and still waiting.... you'd think it would be an easy part to find, but no.
I look forward to popping my GT oil change cherry, sometime this year.

Stuart

I change the oil every 15 years whether it's needed or not too.

 

[Indy GT]

Favio & other GT Owners,

The GT uses a Mann HU925/4X filter. It is in stock in many, many places as the entire filter assembly is sourced from BMW. A word of caution. The oil plug in the large oil reservoir is often overtightened and/or works itself tight because of the dissimilar metals. The reservoir is made from a soft aluminum. We have seen MANY distorted oil reservoirs as a result of trying to loosen over-tightened drain bolts. Additionally, as the GT is most frequently on a 4-post lift when being serviced, this primary oil drain location is sometimes hard to get underneath. On virtually every GT that comes through the shop, we install a Fumoto valve on the aluminum reservoir so you never again have to thread on/off the plug. Instead, just release the lever and rotate it to drain the oil. For the two plugs on the oil pan, we replace those with magnetic tip plugs - just in case. We sell a "kit" on the website comprised of the correct Fumoto valve, a short length of transparent hose (that makes draining a breeze), a notched pinch clamp in case you want to leave it in place and a vinyl cap in case you don't. Also in the kit are two magnetic plugs for the oil pan.

Again Kendall gives good advice on the oil change here. There are numerous early Forum threads on the subject. Remove both drain plugs in the drain pan under the engine block and one drain plug in the bottom of the oil tank.

Really a good idea to install the Fumoto F107N 12MM-1.75 oil drain valve and two magnetic drain plugs (#65212) having the same M12-1.75 thread in the under engine pan. Do it yourself. There is an amount of effort here to remove the two rear underbody panels to gain access to the drain bolts but worth it to look everything over, including the dry sump oil pump belt.

I used the readably available and inexpensive Mann HU925/4X without any difficulty. Or you can use the Motorcraft filer P/N FL-2024. The oil priming discussed in the thread is important and must be followed with the specifically prescribed procedure so the engine does not start up at WOT (wide open throttle). Again search for the procedure which is in early threads.

 

[nautoncall]

Again Kendall gives good advice on the oil change here. There are numerous early Forum threads on the subject. Remove both drain plugs in the drain pan under the engine block and one drain plug in the bottom of the oil tank.

Really a good idea to install the Fumoto F107N 12MM-1.75 oil drain valve and two magnetic drain plugs (#65212) having the same M12-1.75 thread in the under engine pan. Do it yourself. There is an amount of effort here to remove the two rear underbody panels to gain access to the drain bolts but worth it to look everything over, including the dry sump oil pump belt.

I used the readably available and inexpensive Mann HU925/4X without any difficulty. Or you can use the Motorcraft filer P/N FL-2024. The oil priming discussed in the thread is important and must be followed with the specifically prescribed procedure so the engine does not start up at WOT (wide open throttle). Again search for the procedure which is in early threads.

There are old threads on this but you don't have to remove the rear panel. You can remove the panel under the oil pan only by removing all the screws and sliding it forward then drop the bottom and slide the whole thing out. Makes it so much easier.

 

[Indy GT]

Good point nautoncall!

Now you tell me. But I liked to clean the diffuser and look at all the covered components when I performed an oil change. Just me.

 

[Art138]

Good point nautoncall!

Now you tell me. But I liked to clean the diffuser and look at all the covered components when I performed an oil change. Just me.

I am aligned with you on taking all the belly pans off to clean and inspect all underneath. Most important as someone mentioned before is to check the state of the oil pump belt ( if it has not been changed).

 

[twobjshelbys]

I am aligned with you on taking all the belly pans off to clean and inspect all underneath. Most important as someone mentioned before is to check the state of the oil pump belt ( if it has not been changed).

And finding all the loose screws and sockets that have fallen down there.

 

[nota4re]

I am aligned with you on taking all the belly pans off to clean and inspect all underneath. Most important as someone mentioned before is to check the state of the oil pump belt ( if it has not been changed).

We too are advocates of removing both the mid-pan and the rear pan during a routine service - just to have the opportunity for visual inspection.

Note that access to the oil pump belt would be from the mid-pan area but the pan itself will not do a whole lot of good as you will still need to remove the oil pump belt cover. As long as you have the belt cover off, you might as well replace (every 10 years?) the oil pump belt. It is very inexpensive these days now that we have all switched from the Motorcraft-branded belt to the Continental.

 

[PeteK]

Kendall, I’ll be doing a complete fluid change on my car at the local Ford dealer in Vancouver WA sometime before the rally. The service manager there was trained as a GT tech 15 years ago, and they have another tech who is trained on both the 05-06 GTs and the NGTs. They service a couple other GTs and a NGT around here, so I figure I’ll trust them. Besides, I think it’s a good idea to get someone else’s eyes on the car because they might notice something I’ve overlooked. They also will change the oil pump belt to a Continental, and inspect for any oil leakage around the seals.

In addition to the oil drain kit, which I will order from you, are there any other parts to change while we are in there? I know the transaxle has an OE magnetic plug, but are there other drain points that should get magnetic plugs?

 

[nota4re]

Hi Pete,

Sounds like a good plan! Our oil drain kit comes with the correct Fumoto valve for the aluminum reservoir - which is likely the most important. Once installed, no one will have to be torqueing against the aluminum boss. The added advantage is that future oil changes will become even easier which makes it a win-win. The kit also includes magnetic plugs to replace both drain plugs on the pan. No other magnetic plugs are needed. For those of you doing a service - or overseeing a service, here's a short checklist of what you may want to look for and/or perform and these 15 year-old cars.

• We think the aforementioned valve and magnetic plug kit make good sense for the reasons cited above.
• The GT will take 9.5 quarts of oil after an oil/filter change
• Don't forget to prime the engine before starting
• Replace clamshell and/or front bonnet glass struts if they are weak.
• Transaxle fluid should be changed every 3-years or so if you're driving the car. Remove and clean BOTH drain plugs. ONLY use the Motorcraft Transaxle fluid that was made specifically for this car. (If you're paying less than ~$40/quart, you may be buying the wrong stuff!)
• The transaxle will take just short of 4-quarts to re-fill
• Perhaps just in an abundance of caution, change the oil pump belt. Contrary to the shop manual, the belt change can be completed entirely from underneath the car.
• Inspect your rear suspension roe-link boots. Replace if torn/ruptured.
• Inspect shock absorber bodies for any signs of leaking. If there's a lot of visible oil, replace the shock(s) that show signs of leaking.
• Check power steering level and top-off as needed
• Check hydraulic clutch fluid level. Color should be the same as your favorite light beer. If it looks like black coffee, replace.

Anyway, this is a good checklist when you are performing routine maintenance.

 

[GT@50]

Kendall, I’ll be doing a complete fluid change on my car at the local Ford dealer in Vancouver WA sometime before the rally. The service manager there was trained as a GT tech 15 years ago, and they have another tech who is trained on both the 05-06 GTs and the NGTs. They service a couple other GTs and a NGT around here, so I figure I’ll trust them. Besides, I think it’s a good idea to get someone else’s eyes on the car because they might notice something I’ve overlooked. They also will change the oil pump belt to a Continental, and inspect for any oil leakage around the seals.

In addition to the oil drain kit, which I will order from you, are there any other parts to change while we are in there? I know the transaxle has an OE magnetic plug, but are there other drain points that should get magnetic plugs?

There's a guy in Renton that can do it.

 

[PeteK]

Rob, thanks for the reminder.
Kendall, I already bought and installed your improved struts on the clamshell and frunk. Shout out—Way better than OEM.
I recently replaced my shocks with Scott Ahlman’s Ohlins setup. Also significant improvement. I turn the adjustments softer for street driving. FYI for anyone else: after 66,000 miles, the right rear shock was worn noticeably. It wasn’t leaking, but it was having trouble controlling wheel hop over Pavement cracks and expansion joints, compared to the left side. No more problem with that—the wheels stay well planted on the road even over significant bumps and washboards.

 

[Indy GT]

Great checklist advice from Kendall (nota4re) and Scott Ahlman's shock package for the 05-06 GT's are pure functional jewelry for the suspension of those vehicles. Scott will be at our Scottsdale rally. Seek him out to discuss his shocks.

 

[Sinovac]

Local dealer messed up my oil change. They threw away the center piece in the filter housing and installed a new filter. They gave it back to me and my pressure kept going to zero after driving for a few minutes as the filter collapsed. The dealer tried to tell me it was a sending unit, a computer module…needed a new gauge… I eventually pulled it from the dealer and flat bedded it to a mechanic I know who specializes in GT’s and he figured it out in 10 minutes. It was like a $500 piece of plastic too! Anyway… i do it myself now…

Unbelievable. The incompetent I’ve personally witnessed at various dealers and shops is stunning.

 

[CampoLady]

adapter for the reservoir. Where would you get this to change you own oil ?

 

[Natee]

Could you please provide me a link to purchase this oil drain kit?

 

[Art138]

adapter for the reservoir. Where would you get this to change you own oil ?

You can buy the cap with filter cage made for a BMW for under 30.00 dollars (prices may have gone up). It does have the China stamp however. There are posts on this subject. I do all the maintenance on my GT for lapses mentioned above.

 

[Natee]

You can buy the cap with filter cage made for a BMW for under 30.00 dollars (prices may have gone up). It does have the China stamp however. There are posts on this subject. I do all the maintenance on my GT for lapses mentioned above.

For which BMW model? Thank you, Sir.

 

[Art138]

see below pic: as I remember the O ring closest the tip is not used.