HPGT
GT Owner
I suppose you could use JB Weld if you never thought the parts would have to be taken apart. Red Loctite requires heat to remove the fastener. I think Blue is what is recommended.
Apparent Transmission Fluid Leak
- Thread starter Magic
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
HPGT
GT Owner
The JB Weld was just an attempt at humor. I just was trying to comment on the down side of too much 'glue'. Eventually someone will
have to drop the half-shaft - and they will curse you if they break a bolt or strip the head of the fastener.
have to drop the half-shaft - and they will curse you if they break a bolt or strip the head of the fastener.
STORMCAT
GT
I have a lot of personal experience with loctite both Red and Blue. "Red" says permanent but it will come apart without heat. I used to race personal watercraft and we were always changing impellers. The only way to keep them from coming loose was the red loctite.
Red loctite should be used on these bolts. There is a vertical load on these bolts. Not a rotation torque load but as I would describe as a vertical face load on the washer and bolt head. If you look at the angle of the half shaft you will see there is a constant load pulling down on the coupling and as it rotates the load is always changing. The force is great enough to break lower strength bolts and to obviously back them out.
I did both my cars with the accufab kits. When I cleaned the threads with the tap old red loctite came out.. I Used red to put the new ones in.. use red "Magic" or you may be back in there for a 3rd time..
Red loctite should be used on these bolts. There is a vertical load on these bolts. Not a rotation torque load but as I would describe as a vertical face load on the washer and bolt head. If you look at the angle of the half shaft you will see there is a constant load pulling down on the coupling and as it rotates the load is always changing. The force is great enough to break lower strength bolts and to obviously back them out.
I did both my cars with the accufab kits. When I cleaned the threads with the tap old red loctite came out.. I Used red to put the new ones in.. use red "Magic" or you may be back in there for a 3rd time..
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HPGT
GT Owner
Accufab recommends Blue. I'm not saying you can't use Red - You are just going beyond what is recommended by the manufacturer of the bolts.
FOR ME - It would not be worth it.
FOR ME - It would not be worth it.
STORMCAT
GT
My message was for "Magic ".. Red is better than blue for not coming loose.. If there is no down side why not use the red to insure no back out... Magic's obviously came out with the blue.. why do that again..
Accufab is not the MFG of the bolts. They use ARP bolts. My car is a late build 06 GT "1749" was assembled by Ford and Ford used Red Loctite on my car.. Not sure what your point is??
BlackICE
GT Owner
The downsides of red is that it is a PITA to remove without heating. Will heating the bolts harm any seals around the area?
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
I had my guy put sensors on all of the ½ shaft bolts, plus he used a new quantum particial accelerator insted of loctite to fuse the bolts in place. Unfortunately because the accelerator works in the fifth dimension, we are no longer sure if it fused the bolts on my GT in this dimension or in an alternate universe? And the machining on the sensor has to be done in a zero gravity environment so you'll need to wait for space on the next NASA launch. Luckily, my GT won't be working until all of those dimension collide again so this process seemed like a good solution.
My second choice would be the Accufab kit.
My second choice would be the Accufab kit.
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On the countless upgrades we have done we have always used Loctite Blue. Red is sketchy to remove and typically makes a mess of the threads. Just do the procedure methodically and properly. Chase and clean the threads - I'd recommend a bottoming tap rather than a normal tap. Use the Blue Loctite and follow the torque PROCESS and settings. As stated previously, perform the "leaking halfshaft" TSB as a precaution. This thread is way to long and convoluted for a simple, straightforward resolution.
PL510*Jeff
Well-known member
Indy GT & Ralphie - please decifer this for us mere humans with high school science schooling.
Xcentric
GT Owner
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
Hi Jeff! Mark is a lofty thinker and obviously on another planet with his halfshaft bolt fusion procedure. In all fairness, I do not really think the zero gravity environment is absolutely necessary. Thus you can do this assembly on earth….:lol
Mark, get this science project finished! And bring it to Rally 10. We have missed your presence for too many rallies.:thumbsup
Again, I agree with Kendall. “This thread is WAY too long and convoluted for a simple, straightforward resolution”.
There is no question that Mark's elegant solution is the preferred methodology and technique, as it is a updated extension of Emmet "Doc" Brown's flux capacitor combined with the well-known and implemented turbo encabulator.
[video=youtube;Ac7G7xOG2Ag]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag[/video]
When using taps (regular or flat bottom) in blind holes, it can be difficult to thoroughly clean out all of the material. I would recommend flushing the hole with a suitable solvent out followed by pressurized air with a thin nozzle that can reach the bottom of the hole.