I've(glass shop) filled 3 on mine. One from a McLaren, one from a FGT and I can't remember the other. Beats replacing windshield. I've Clearplexed it now and lead rather than follow. I can see the chips when I wash it but not driving. The Clearplex has a stretchmark? on the passenger side that I don't notice driving, and my wife hasn't said anything about it, so it's no biggie. I have a spare windshield for the "biggie" if that ever happens.I had a toyota 86 for a fun car for a while and it had a rock chip that I tried to fill in with dr colorchip. It always either leaves an overfill or a divot.
Has anyone dealt with this problem on fgt or any other cars?
I've(glass shop) filled 3 on mine. One from a McLaren, one from a FGT and I can't remember the other. Beats replacing windshield. I've Clearplexed it now and lead rather than follow. I can see the chips when I wash it but not driving. The Clearplex has a stretchmark? on the passenger side that I don't notice driving, and my wife hasn't said anything about it, so it's no biggie. I have a spare windshield for the "biggie" if that ever happens.
Get Ford lacquer touch up paint. Get paint dabber at link below.
Sand chipped area with the sanding tip on the touch up paint. If the chip is too small to sand, don't. Clean with wax and grease remover. Dab/let dry.
Use the dabber below to carefully apply paint to only the damage area. Let dry over night. Keep applying daily until applied paint is higher than the good paint. Let dry for a day or two. The longer you let it dry the better. The paint continues to dry and shrink for months. Waiting 90 days is better, but a couple of days will work if wanting to get it done quick. Don't use the clear coat. It is not needed with lacquer.
Take clear packaging tape and place it on the good paint around the touch up paint. Most cases you can take a hole punch to cut a round hole in the tape. This will protect the good paint while sanding down the touch up area. It also can be used as a tell-tale gauge as you sand down the touch up, you will figure it out. Take 500 wet/dry sand paper wrap it around a pink eraser for a sanding block. Or cut the eraser as needed for a better fit to the job. Sand it with water to almost flush with the good paint. Take 1500 wet/dry with water to finish. When mostly flush, remove remaining protectant tape. Lightly finish sand again flush over a larger area with 1500 wet/dry. Buff to a shine by hand with polishing compound. On solid color no one will see the fix. On metallic finish you may see it, most won't.
To play it safe use 1000 instead of 500 on initial sanding. It will take longer, but you won't accidentally over sand. Adding a little lacquer thinner (drops as needed) to the paint will thin it and make it easier to apply, if needed.
Good luck.
Touch Up Applicators pack/40
Disposable touch-up micro-brushes reach easily into tight spotswww.eastwood.com
The lacquer does not need it. Also, you cannot make it flush to the good paint. You can sand down the lacquer color flush then polish, you will not see it. You can try to use the clear. Assuming your good paint is the original epoxy type two part paint, you can use lacquer thinner and remove the Ford lacquer if you make a mistake.I meant to say whats the reason for not using clearcoat?
Yes the Ford double tip paint bottle.Are you talking about the double tip pen shaped ford paint? Do you use the clear coat in it as well?
Basically, fill it, build it up until a bulge forms then sand it down then buff it?The lacquer does not need it. Also, you cannot make it flush to the good paint. You can sand down the lacquer color flush then polish, you will not see it. You can try to use the clear. Assuming your good paint is the original epoxy type two part paint, you can use lacquer thinner and remove the Ford lacquer if you make a mistake.
I need to go to a junkyard and practice on a chip repair. This is an art I want to learn and I see so many youtube videos which claim to be good but in reality, looks bad.Yes, that's basically it. Of course, it sounds easier than it is, and takes a lot of meticulous time. But you can do it a little at at time, instead of all in one session. and start where your work will be least noticed to get practice, then do the more visible spots.
It does take time to perfect. When you do, you will be very happy with the results. Paints dry/cure over long periods. You can apply the lacquer twice each day (12 hrs) until over filled. Then wait one day and sand and polish. It will look perfect when done, cannot see it. Then over time it will begin to show the edges, since the applied paint is shrinking. Even with this, no one will ever notice it except you, but it will drive you nuts, since you will always be checking it out. Sooo......... the longer you can wait the better (for your sanity). Best to fill in the fall let sit over winter, sand and polish in the spring. Or, if in the south, maybe fill, drive around in the hot sun for as long as you can put up with it, and then sand.I need to go to a junkyard and practice on a chip repair. This is an art I want to learn and I see so many youtube videos which claim to be good but in reality, looks bad.
It does take time to perfect. When you do, you will be very happy with the results. Paints dry/cure over long periods. You can apply the lacquer twice each day (12 hrs) until over filled. Then wait one day and sand and polish. It will look perfect when done, cannot see it. Then over time it will begin to show the edges, since the applied paint is shrinking. Even with this, no one will ever notice it except you, but it will drive you nuts, since you will always be checking it out. Sooo......... the longer you can wait the better (for your sanity). Best to fill in the fall let sit over winter, sand and polish in the spring. Or, if in the south, maybe fill, drive around in the hot sun for as long as you can put up with it, and then sand.
OK part 2: If the Ford touch up color is not a close enough match, you can buy other Ford colors and add to match. For example, I have found that the Ford touch up paint for the red GT (code D3) is a bit to dark of red. If you add Ford Oxford White (code YZ) drops at a time, you can match the GT red. Of course, again you will be the only one who will notice the difference, and all your buddies that you showed it to.
Im so annoy
I want to get this clear, so what is lacquer and what is the point of not using clearcoat?
So i did a bad diagram below and you would fill the whole divot up with paint?
It seems (or to my experience) very hard to get it flush. Even flush, you can see the fine line between the fill and original paint.
Why dont you try dr colorchip? Overpriced but totally reversible in case you mess up (which is very likely for the first time touch up)Does anyone know where I can get Ford OEM Royal Blue Touch up paint ? Dealers say Ou of Stock. Thanks Steve