tmcphail
GT Owner/Vendor
100% Fuel pump DC is bad no matter how you slice it. What do you think happens when atmospheric conditions improve IE increase in barometric pressure or a decrease in temperature or you spin it to 7000 RPM ?
whipple 4.0
- Thread starter kumar
- Start date
Het Torrie - I want to order a couple of bits off you - whats the best way to go about it?
Thanks!
tmcphail
GT Owner/Vendor
Apollo
GT Owner
Hi Torrie, Hi Fubar,
I have a 4.0 with a 19 pulley and have not really had a chance to drive it yet. I am in California with 91 pump gas. I can get higher octane gas but would rather be safe, is a 17 pulley a way to achieve this? I have to do a bit more work to do on the car before I start driving it, so I was wondering if it would be better to run a 17 pulley?
Thanks,
TC
I have a 4.0 with a 19 pulley and have not really had a chance to drive it yet. I am in California with 91 pump gas. I can get higher octane gas but would rather be safe, is a 17 pulley a way to achieve this? I have to do a bit more work to do on the car before I start driving it, so I was wondering if it would be better to run a 17 pulley?
Thanks,
TC
tmcphail
GT Owner/Vendor
Dyno the car and datalog it completely, that is going to be the only true way you will know if everything is working within spec.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
Here are some pictures of the BAP install:
BAP unit with custom bracket
BAP placement in the front boot
BAP gain switch removed with loop fitting installed
Conection wires being address (professional hand model being used)
Wire route for boost pressure switch
BAP boost pressure switch (top view) behind aftermarket 30lbs boost pressure meter for in-dash gauge
side view
BAP unit with custom bracket
BAP placement in the front boot
BAP gain switch removed with loop fitting installed
Conection wires being address (professional hand model being used)
Wire route for boost pressure switch
BAP boost pressure switch (top view) behind aftermarket 30lbs boost pressure meter for in-dash gauge
side view
Last edited:
Namor
GT Owner
Dealmaker, who's doing your install in the UK? I'm running completely standard so just now, so I'll be very interested to understand how your car runs with the 4.0ltf.
Namor,
The car is at Roush/Revolve - they will be doing the install. Should have first results in a couple of weeks or so. Guess it's poss less of an issue for us - especially if we run on Shell V-Power at 97/98 RON.
OzGT
GT Owner
The are quite a machine, however they have weight and traction going against them big time. In normal driving the traction control absolutely smashes the performance if you drop the hammer. Top Gear UK just did a story on them, you'll find it on youtube. Clarkson hated the thing.
OzGT
GT Owner
Remember our V-Power 98RON(UK,Euro,Aus) is equiv US 93 PON, so there's not a lot of margin for tuning in that. It was a tad better when we had the short lived V-Power 100RON here. It's been quite a source of frustration for me with both my '03 Cobra and GT in terms of trying to meet the numbers guys in the US are getting with fairly conservative 93 PON tunes.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
I have not done a new dyno with the boost-a-pump so I don't have anything new to share. The 4oh delivers buckets of power and is well worth the investment. I am still working on a boost issue I have when shift really fast but I feel certain I will have a solution for that soon.
I would just like to share that Dennis at Whipple has been extremely helpful with install and post purchase issues. In spite of the small set-backs I have experienced, I am very happy with Whipple as a company. I am definitely happy to recommend their product to my friends here on the forum.
As always, I will update this thread when I have more information.
I would just like to share that Dennis at Whipple has been extremely helpful with install and post purchase issues. In spite of the small set-backs I have experienced, I am very happy with Whipple as a company. I am definitely happy to recommend their product to my friends here on the forum.
As always, I will update this thread when I have more information.
OzGT
GT Owner
Hey Fubar, sorry if you already explained it, but what kind of boost issue is it. May be relevant to us other soon to be 4.0er's.
I had a really odd and frustrating issue a few years ago after I KB'ed my Cobra, it would sort of cut fuel after for a few moments when driving more aggressively. Seemed in the end to have something to do the fuel system.
Last edited:
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
Well I need to do some more testing before I can really give decent information but here is the basic information:
1) hard acceleration, roll on from 2nd gear (40-60mph)
2) when I shift from 2nd to 3rd (quickly) boost does not fully return (10lbs)
3) boost stay at this anemic level as long as I stay in the throttle
4) when I lift off the throttle and the depress it again, full boost returns
5) I can not find evidence of belt slippage (but I am not eliminating that)
6) I have replace the bypass valve diaphragm with no good results
I'm still working on this one but any input would be well received.
1) hard acceleration, roll on from 2nd gear (40-60mph)
2) when I shift from 2nd to 3rd (quickly) boost does not fully return (10lbs)
3) boost stay at this anemic level as long as I stay in the throttle
4) when I lift off the throttle and the depress it again, full boost returns
5) I can not find evidence of belt slippage (but I am not eliminating that)
6) I have replace the bypass valve diaphragm with no good results
I'm still working on this one but any input would be well received.
Whipple
Sounds like something is amiss in the vac harness or the vac reservoir. I would check every connection to make sure that the harness fitting isn't sucking itself onto a metal or plastic fitting causing a restriction in airflow required for the vac of the engine to operate the bypass valve.
Just an armchair shot at this one without seeing it.
Sounds like something is amiss in the vac harness or the vac reservoir. I would check every connection to make sure that the harness fitting isn't sucking itself onto a metal or plastic fitting causing a restriction in airflow required for the vac of the engine to operate the bypass valve.
Just an armchair shot at this one without seeing it.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
I was thinking about using a zip tie to lock the bypass valve closed. Then give it a quick test run. That would tell me if it was the bypass valve or something else. I can't think of anything this would damage (short term). Any recommendations for testing?
OzGT
GT Owner
Does seem to have some similarities to the cobra issue. I had video of it doing it in a hard launch situation that I don't think I've got that any more. But I remember that run where it happened and it reminds me of what your saying, especially the 2-3 gear and lift off throttle part and it goes back to normal.
BlackICE
GT Owner
I think you can accomplish the same thing by removing the vacuum tubing to the diaphragm. I would do both. Having the vacuum trying to pull on the valve while held in place by a zip tie may not be good for the part.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
My turner, Shawn, thought of this as well, he ran a direct line from the SC to the top of the diaphragm for "good" positive pressure to close the valve. No luck.
Whipple
You can just take both of the vac fittings off of the bypass and plug them as not to allow dirt/debirs into the engine. The valve should be naturally closed as to force all of the air through the screws instead of the bypass hole (for lack of better words). You can then take it for a short ride and see what the boost does.
On another longshot note make sure sure there are no restrictions in the airbox or clean air tube.
You can just take both of the vac fittings off of the bypass and plug them as not to allow dirt/debirs into the engine. The valve should be naturally closed as to force all of the air through the screws instead of the bypass hole (for lack of better words). You can then take it for a short ride and see what the boost does.
On another longshot note make sure sure there are no restrictions in the airbox or clean air tube.