Water temps
- Thread starter TEXAS GT
- Start date
All good ideas guys. Thanks for the input. I'll look into the bleeding process if necessary but I drove it again today for a 20 mile run and the temps topped out at 180 like normal. I'll run it further before I do anything else but it looks like maybe it purged the air itself if that's possible.
Where do you get Water Wetter and what's the procedure for using it? Do you have to drain the entire system or just suction some out and add the Wetter?
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
Any race shop will have it. It comes in 12oz bottle or something small. I would think you could just add it.
cobrar1339
GT Owner
cobrar1339
GT Owner
Ed Sims may comment here on adding the water wetter. Has has done it a couple times now.
If you had a suction pump you may be able to pull about 1.5 gallons from the tank.
Your goal is to get to about 20-25% coolant rather than 50/50 , then add the water wetter. I think the system holds about 7.5 gallons of a 50/50 mix. If you do a little math on the dilution you should be able to suck out what you need. Then refill with water and 2 bottles of water wetter. Pulling from the tank should avoid the need to bleed the system.
Ie. Remove 1.5 50/50 mix, add water, run motor, pull another 1.5 gallons repeat until you reach the 20-25% dillution, then add water wetter.
One way to test your cooling improvement. Run the car for 1-2 miles at 4,000 rpm. Get a baseline, do it again in the same conditions, same road, same direction. The car should run pretty cool at cruise. More RPM = more heat. Boost is the other factor, but hard to do any static tests to measure.
Stock mine ran at 210 under these conditions on a 90 deg day, slight incline to the road. Shift to 6th and she cooled right down to about 178.
If you had a suction pump you may be able to pull about 1.5 gallons from the tank.
Your goal is to get to about 20-25% coolant rather than 50/50 , then add the water wetter. I think the system holds about 7.5 gallons of a 50/50 mix. If you do a little math on the dilution you should be able to suck out what you need. Then refill with water and 2 bottles of water wetter. Pulling from the tank should avoid the need to bleed the system.
Ie. Remove 1.5 50/50 mix, add water, run motor, pull another 1.5 gallons repeat until you reach the 20-25% dillution, then add water wetter.
One way to test your cooling improvement. Run the car for 1-2 miles at 4,000 rpm. Get a baseline, do it again in the same conditions, same road, same direction. The car should run pretty cool at cruise. More RPM = more heat. Boost is the other factor, but hard to do any static tests to measure.
Stock mine ran at 210 under these conditions on a 90 deg day, slight incline to the road. Shift to 6th and she cooled right down to about 178.
Water Wetter + front rad screen
Water Wetter is made by Redline. It's sold at many places but Auto Zone is a good place to go for it & other Redline products.
I'm told that Ford uses more than a 1:1 ratio of coolant to water in the GT. It's more like 3:4 (75% coolant!).
Yes, removing the 05 front screen made a big difference in temps. Keep that 05 front screen as I am told that the part is not available from Ford & will not be available. The 06 piece is the only one available. Any 05 owner damaging the front of their GT will have to tweek their bent screen or fab a custom one.
Ed
Water Wetter is made by Redline. It's sold at many places but Auto Zone is a good place to go for it & other Redline products.
I'm told that Ford uses more than a 1:1 ratio of coolant to water in the GT. It's more like 3:4 (75% coolant!).
Yes, removing the 05 front screen made a big difference in temps. Keep that 05 front screen as I am told that the part is not available from Ford & will not be available. The 06 piece is the only one available. Any 05 owner damaging the front of their GT will have to tweek their bent screen or fab a custom one.
Ed
AZGT
GT Owner
I did mine with a wet/dry shop vac. Sucks what's in the tanks (radiator and intercooler) out plus some of what is in the lines.
Make sure you do one, see how much (measure) what came out, then do the other. That way you make sure your ratio is more accurate. Also tells you how much distilled to put back in.
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FLASH
GT Owner/Board of Directors
When we had the car on the lift the techs looked at the lower radiator hose and were surprised at its size. It looks to be almost 3" and they said they can see where it might collapse. Our theory is that once the temp gets to about 210 the heat might soften the hose enough to make it flex more. They said Ford used to put a reinforcing spring in the hose but sometimes they rusted out and got caught up in the water pump. They also said that sometimes twisting the hose slightly before tightening the clamps adds rigidity to the hose. It might be possible to insert a small plastic inset in that section of the hose and eliminate the potential problem.
Yesterday I drove the car to Road Atlanta to watch Tungston in a NASA event. It was 100 degrees outside and did get stuck in some stop and go traffic on I-85 N. and with the air on the temp never got higher than 195. My changes to the car since my overheating problem at Talladega (230) was to add Water Wetter as prescribed in the forum and to have Jerry reset the tune to when the fans come on. The stock setting was to have the low speed fans come on at 188 but they were set to go off at 50 mph. The high speed fan would come on when the temp hit 205. Jerry reset the low speed fan to come on at 160 and never go off and the high speed fan to come on at 188. So far the results are great but again I haven't had a chance to test it with track and high rev situations.
Flash :cheers
Yesterday I drove the car to Road Atlanta to watch Tungston in a NASA event. It was 100 degrees outside and did get stuck in some stop and go traffic on I-85 N. and with the air on the temp never got higher than 195. My changes to the car since my overheating problem at Talladega (230) was to add Water Wetter as prescribed in the forum and to have Jerry reset the tune to when the fans come on. The stock setting was to have the low speed fans come on at 188 but they were set to go off at 50 mph. The high speed fan would come on when the temp hit 205. Jerry reset the low speed fan to come on at 160 and never go off and the high speed fan to come on at 188. So far the results are great but again I haven't had a chance to test it with track and high rev situations.
Flash :cheers
Gary
GT Owner
Got the opportunity to run my 05 on a road race course on a "Bring your car to the Track Day" promoted by a local newspaper. Ran it very hard (Race Like) in 4 different 20 minute sessions. It ran very hot and in one session the computer shut it down. Nice to know the computer is smart. Remember when we went the Wixom at the 06 Rally noticing different intake grills over air inlet to radiators. Ask about it and was told of overheating issue. Later production has a much more open grill and I'm sure lets more air thru. Question. Can this later grill be installed easily on and 05.
cobrar1339
GT Owner
GT temps
Yes, the 06 front piece can be used in place of the 05 screen to improve airflow. I removed the 05 screen & left it at that. The 06 piece is only to cover the support bars. The 05 screen is not even available from Ford so hang on to it as a collector item (or sell it!).
Ed
Yes, the 06 front piece can be used in place of the 05 screen to improve airflow. I removed the 05 screen & left it at that. The 06 piece is only to cover the support bars. The 05 screen is not even available from Ford so hang on to it as a collector item (or sell it!).
Ed
timcantwell
Le Mans 2010 Sponsor * Moderator
AlohaGT
GT Owner
analogdesigner
GT Owner
All,
Removing the front screen (as on the early '05 models) will reduce the coolant temperature by 10 degrees F. This was brought up when I spoke with Mark McGowan (from Ford) at the recent rally.
Red Line Water Wetter should be used by everyone! I have used this in all of my cars for the past ~20 years. I never use anti-freeze (warning, I do live in So. Cal. min-max temp range is 40 to 90 degrees F year round) and always use demineralized or distilled water. I think that demineralized is better, because you want ions in the water!!! I use twice the recommended amount of Water Wetter, as it is better to error on the side of too much. I realize that anti-freeze is needed for most cars to protect from freezing damage, however, antifreeze is the best way to degrade cooling performance and should always be minimized as others have suggested on this post. Perhaps you guys could have a coolant recipe for track and summer driving and then revert back to the standard recipe during the winter season.
I think that a properly designed spring could be made to prevent hose collapse, while minimizing flow restriction. The spring should NOT be made from a metal that can corrode. Try using a 302 stainless alloy, as it toughens as it gets flexed over time. A Teflon coating over the wire would be nice (a la Power Rings). Does Gates or someone else make a heavier duty hose that is a compatible fit? Perhaps something used on a big-rig? This would be a better solution than sticking a spring in there. If I had the time, I could wind a few sets for testing, however, I can't even get shifter balls delivered right now... :ack
Jay
GTsaver
Removing the front screen (as on the early '05 models) will reduce the coolant temperature by 10 degrees F. This was brought up when I spoke with Mark McGowan (from Ford) at the recent rally.
Red Line Water Wetter should be used by everyone! I have used this in all of my cars for the past ~20 years. I never use anti-freeze (warning, I do live in So. Cal. min-max temp range is 40 to 90 degrees F year round) and always use demineralized or distilled water. I think that demineralized is better, because you want ions in the water!!! I use twice the recommended amount of Water Wetter, as it is better to error on the side of too much. I realize that anti-freeze is needed for most cars to protect from freezing damage, however, antifreeze is the best way to degrade cooling performance and should always be minimized as others have suggested on this post. Perhaps you guys could have a coolant recipe for track and summer driving and then revert back to the standard recipe during the winter season.
I think that a properly designed spring could be made to prevent hose collapse, while minimizing flow restriction. The spring should NOT be made from a metal that can corrode. Try using a 302 stainless alloy, as it toughens as it gets flexed over time. A Teflon coating over the wire would be nice (a la Power Rings). Does Gates or someone else make a heavier duty hose that is a compatible fit? Perhaps something used on a big-rig? This would be a better solution than sticking a spring in there. If I had the time, I could wind a few sets for testing, however, I can't even get shifter balls delivered right now... :ack
Jay
GTsaver
A lot of talk of water Weter here..... I guess I'll chime in with my experience and rain on the parade a little bit. A couple of years ago I decided that my new (3,000) mile Jeep Rubicon needed a bit more power so I proceeded to install a factory fresh 5.7L Hemi. One of the biggest challenges of the project was in cooling. Lifted Jeeps destroy the factory-height low pressure zone under the Jeep which is usually the path the air takes after going through the radiator. Lifted Jeeps (with a lot of HP) are kind of like driving a cup into the wind. The stale heated air is trapped and there is no good airflow..... Anyway, long story. Suffice to say that we were instrumenting and data logging water temps while trying various fixes. Water wetter was a lot of people's recommended (partial) solution. I can tell you that it had no effect in our application. No effect at all. The fact is that the principle of water wetter is not patented or a trade secret. If it worked so well and so universally, it would be in your car from the factory. Think about it.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Interesting
We have found good measured results however as with many products; one product (unlike PT Barnum's snake oil of days gone past) is not the cure for all similar symptoms.
Now as for the OEM not using it or the fact that it is not patented is IMO only moderately interesting as there are a laundry list of great products that remain without a patent and an even longer list of great products that the OEM's elect not to use.
IMO neither of these issues have any significant as to the quality of a product
In closing let me be clear that I have no vested interest in Wetter Water I also have no intest in offending anyone as the result of comments shared because I not only enjoy but encourage "all" comments to be shared and yet if a contrary comment is made I hope that it too is well received.
Takes care
Shadowman
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
I have watched this discussion on other forums.
First, my FGT has no overheating issues. Even with the Speed Lingerie bra and the early 2005 grill.
I did a test of Water Wetter on a dyno break in of a new FE motor.
It dropped the temps 15-20 degrees.
However, I am highly paid to endorse Purple K products and we are coming out with something 'more bettah' and will reduce temps 30degrees, improve your financial fortune and love life.
Can't say to much as we are not a supporting sponsor. But,.. You can find out more at www.bony'sbulltails.org
First, my FGT has no overheating issues. Even with the Speed Lingerie bra and the early 2005 grill.
I did a test of Water Wetter on a dyno break in of a new FE motor.
It dropped the temps 15-20 degrees.
However, I am highly paid to endorse Purple K products and we are coming out with something 'more bettah' and will reduce temps 30degrees, improve your financial fortune and love life.
Can't say to much as we are not a supporting sponsor. But,.. You can find out more at www.bony'sbulltails.org