Unofficial 4-Post Lift Thread (PICs!)


nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,291
A lot has been discussed here recently about oil changes and other maintenance items for the GT. Likely one of the most frightening experiences for a GT owner is having to lift it - whether doing it yourself, at the dealership, or at an independent shop.

It is my opinion that by far the most versatile lift available - and particularly well suited to the GT, is a 4-post lift equipped with a rolling jack bridge.

I just stepped back in from the garage where I snapped a few pictures to help show why I prefer the 4-post lift over other lifts.

First, and perhaps most importantly, the 4-post lift is easy to drive on/off of. It is a no brainer. Since I've owned the GT, about 50% of the time my "normal" parking spot is on the lift. It is that easy and is no problem to drive on/off unassisted. Frankly I use the lift to assist in cleaning the cars as much as I do to work on them. Cleaning wheels (a weekly chore with the GT brake dust) and cleaning/waxing lower body panels is easy when the car can be adjusted to chair-height. :biggrin

So, let me illustrate my points about the ease of lifting a GT with a few photos.

First off, here's the GT on the lift and lifted up to maximum height.

GTup.JPG


Here's a pic of the underside of the GT. Notice that along the inside of each rail there's a heavy U-channel piece that has been welded there to accomodate a rolling jack bridge.

Rails.JPG


Here's a picture of the rolling jack bridge. As low as the GT is, notice that there is no problem to roll the jack bridge the entire length of the car and position it anywhere you like.

JackBridge.JPG


Speaking of rolling the jack bridge, the following picture shows why it is so easy. Notice that when it is not loaded (not lifting) the entire weight of the jack bridge is carried by the steel wheels. It glides for and aft. However, as soon as you start to jack the car up with it, the springs compress and the weight of the car & bridge is carried by the aforementioned U-channel.

BridgeRail.JPG


Here's the rolling jack bridge approximately underneath one of the front jack points. The 1" x 3" solid plate can slide out approximately 18" if needed. Also, you can lift directly from the top arm of the bridge jack witout using the cups.

FrontJackPts.JPG


Here's the jack bridge immediately below the right rear jack point. Notice that the jack point is slightly lower that the belly pans that surround it. One problem with the 2-post lifts is that if the lifting pads aren't positioned perfectly, it is too easy to pinch one of these pans. If you go up with the intention of changing the oil, for example, you must have these pans free so that they can be removed!

JackPt.JPG


In the following picture, I've located a small piece of 2x4 at the left rear jacking point.

LefBlock.JPG


And here's the right side.

RightBlock.JPG


Finally, here's a pic of the jack bridge positioned correctly with both blocks in place.

BothBlocks.JPG


With these pictures, I hope you can see the versatility of a 4-post lift. Many jobs don't require you to lift the suspension up, but if/when you do, it is very easy when you are doing the positioning with the car comfortably in the air and you can see exactly what you are doing.

Regarding my equipment, the lift is a BendPak HD-12SS with a 12K lb lifting capacity. The rolling jack bridge is a BendPak RJ-6 with a 6K lb lifting capacity.

I hope this helps someone else.
 
Last edited:

dbk

Admin
Staff member
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jul 30, 2005
15,248
Metro Detroit
Wow, that's awesome. :cheers
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
I am thinking of buying an hd12 or hd9. I am leaning toward the hd12. But the hd12 has 7" high ramps vs. 4" high on the hd9. My calculation show that with the standard ramps of the hd12 the gt front air dam will hit the ramps. Is that the case?

Also would you recommend getting 2 rolling jacks to lift all four wheels off of the lift, or would 1 rolling jack be ok. My guess on using 1 jack would be to jack the rear and then put it on jack stands and then move the rolling jacks to the front. I think this will work since the rear has two sets of jacking points. But I don't know if the jacking points will line up with the ramps so that a jack stand would work.

BlackICE
 

rickisapilot

GT Owner
May 11, 2006
63
Thanks NOTA4RE !!!

Excellent tutorial there! Thanks much.

I'm going to have to have all work done at a dealer (no lift in my future). Would most dealers have a lift like this? Bring along my own 2x4 pieces of wood?
I can see that I'd have to closely supervise a lot of this car's service work & don't most of the dealers try to keep you out of the bay using "our insurance" excuse?

----Rick
 

Kirby Vieira

GT Owner/B.o.D
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 22, 2005
1,768
Atlanta
BlackICE, You only need one rolling jack if you purchase an inexpensive jack bridge which is basically a piece of steel that spans the 2 rails and slides to the position needed to place the jack stands exactly where they are needed. If you get the lowest ramps, you will be able to drive on and off without using wood to extend the ramps. A 220volt motor is often the same price as a 110v, and it provides smoother, faster operation. Although it sounds obvious, position the lift close to a wall on the righthand side of your garage so you can fully open the driver door. Mine was in place close to the lefthand side before I got the GT, so I have to back on and off which is a little inconvenient.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
I hope that lifting points for the jack stands don't straddle the jack bridge and ramps. I was planning on the 220v motor and the lift will be placed with easy access to both the left and right sides.

Since a lift narrow enough for one of my 1 car bays would be hard to use compared to a wider one. I decided if I was going to take up a 2 bay garage area, why not a wider one like a hd12. I was planning on the hd9. However the hd12 has a 7" ramp over a distance of 30" vs. the hd9 with a 4" ramp over a distance of 24".

BlackICE
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,291
I am thinking of buying an hd12 or hd9. I am leaning toward the hd12. But the hd12 has 7" high ramps vs. 4" high on the hd9. My calculation show that with the standard ramps of the hd12 the gt front air dam will hit the ramps. Is that the case?

I think the HD9 is a lighter duty lift and, as such, does not have sufficient strength to support the rolling jack bridge options.

For the GT, I place a ~24 inch length of 2x12 before the ramps which insures that the chin spoiler of the GT does not come in contact with the lift.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
nota4re said:
I think the HD9 is a lighter duty lift and, as such, does not have sufficient strength to support the rolling jack bridge options.

For the GT, I place a ~24 inch length of 2x12 before the ramps which insures that the chin spoiler of the GT does not come in contact with the lift.

The HD9 does support a 4K lift. I am leaning to the HD12 since it is stronger (better in earthquake country!) and a little wider for ease of use (I have to plan for asking my wife to park under the lift) The only drawback of the HD12 is that I would need to buy accessory ramps or add wood before putting the GT on the lift. The prices are not much different.


BlackICE
 

analogdesigner

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 15, 2005
950
San Clemente, CA USA
jack adapters on your lift?

nota4re said:
I think the HD9 is a lighter duty lift and, as such, does not have sufficient strength to support the rolling jack bridge options.

For the GT, I place a ~24 inch length of 2x12 before the ramps which insures that the chin spoiler of the GT does not come in contact with the lift.

nota4re,

That's a slick unit. I own an Autolifters dual post as I have very limited space. I would prefer your setup anyday over mine.

With my jack adapters, you do not have to worry about them contacting any removable parts under the car. Do you think that these would fit on your setup?

Thanks,

Jay
www.gtsaver.com
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,291
With my jack adapters, you do not have to worry about them contacting any removable parts under the car. Do you think that these would fit on your setup?

Jay,

I can't think of any jacking scenario where your jack pads wouldn't be an asset. They would certainly work great in any 2-post or 4-post setup. In particular, your center locating tab that is part of your jack pad makes it simple to properly locate the pad in their correct position without inadvertently trapping an edge of one of the GT's protective belly pans.

Just to note that the rolling jack bridge is a air over hydraulic unit. It uses compressed air to drive the hyraulic pump. It is insanely easy to go up VERY precisely. By partially depressing the "up" control, the jack does a slow "ga-dunk....ga-dunk....ga-dunk" step-up that is ~1/8" up each time. Therefore, placing the jack pads would be very easy. Once the pads or blocks have been placed, depressing the up control more fully will cause the jack to travel up faster.

BlackICE, perhaps you've come across this site as a potential source for your lift. Garage Equipment Supply

They have very good prices and free shipping (compliments of BendPak). I have no affiliation/interest in either BendPak or GES. I'm just a fan of BendPak's products. (I have the wheel balancing and tire change machines as well!) If you end up talking to GES, ask for Christi and tell her Kendall said hello.
 

Craig

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Mar 14, 2006
174
San Diego
I've had a two post lift for the past 6 years and quickly decided that owning a lift is an ADA requirement for us gear heads over 50. :lol I will be purchasing a 4 post lift this summer for the GT. Great info on a good product.

Thanks,

Craig