Transaxle and Shifter Questions

[Dr Robert Harms]

I am still trying to understand why the GT shifter is so vague and what I can do to improve it as I remain unwilling to live with it

Questions:

1. Despite a search I cannot find any technical information on the "triple synchronizers" used on 2nd and third gears. Can anyone assist ? Any pictures ? just a marketing term ???--btw if the synchros are brass (which I assume) their action should improve over time

2. Am I correct that the various aftermarket shifters still hook up to the oem push-pull cables in the same manner as the original--ie the shifter is changed but everything else is the same ?

3. Replacement "bushings" that are metal as opposed to rubber are a feature noted on the aftermarket shifters (?) Ive looked at the pitures of the shifters and can't see them ? Has anyone replaced the rubber (?) bushings on the oem shifter with metal ? delrin ?

4. Logic telles me that a "shorter" shifter pattern can be achieved by longer arms actualing the cables or simply by a shorter stick. If the goal is a shorter pattern and the shifting precision is acceptable, why not simply decrease the height of the stick ?

BTW--the grind (notable in the am especially when cold) from 1 to 2 is and always was a noted problem with Ferrari transaxles in 275's and even Boxers. There is or was an addative called MS-2 or something like that (Molybidum-Disulphide sic.) that cleared it right up.

 

[SLF360]

I am still trying to understand why the GT shifter is so vague and what I can do to improve it as I remain unwilling to live with it

BTW--the grind (notable in the am especially when cold) from 1 to 2 is and always was a noted problem with Ferrari transaxles in 275's and even Boxers. There is or was an addative called MS-2 or something like that (Molybidum-Disulphide sic.) that cleared it right up.

Robert,

Interesting contribution here about the MS-2 additive. I will check this what the Ferrari techs are saying about eventual side effects...

 

[mardyn]

Yea, I'll agree with the good Dr.... seems to me that replacing the rubber bushings with something a bit stiffer, and shortening the stick by about an inch or so would be an inexpensive upgrade to try.

mardyn

 

[BlackICE]

Yea, I'll agree with the good Dr.... seems to me that replacing the rubber bushings with something a bit stiffer, and shortening the stick by about an inch or so would be an inexpensive upgrade to try.

mardyn

Inexpensive as long as you don't ever want or need to change the shifter back to the stock configuration. Note that just the stock shifter ball list for $160. The complete OEM shifter must be much higher than the $440 list for the Ford Racing short throw shifter. Although cutting down the stock shifter is a lot easier than replacing it.

Jay's shifter ball will get you 3/4" lower with a very easy installation and no changes to your stock shifter.

 

[fjpikul]

General feeling was if you shortened the shifter, you would increase the force needed to make the shift. The Ford short shifter does not cause this. It uses the same cables, etc. You have your choice of rubber or metal hardware (the GTGuys said to use metal). I don't think my shifter stock is vague, but I think the short shifter will be nice. The stock shifter feels great for power shifts in my opinion, although I've missed 4-5 on occasion.

 

[mardyn]

maybe we can get Rich (GT Guy) to comment on the stock shifter bushing replacement. How much trouble would it be? Would there be a noticable improvement over the stock bushings, does it transfer more vibrations, Hmmm... now I'm cuirous.

mardyn

 

[thegtguy]

When the new shifter is installed it isn't that much more work to install the solid bushings. They go where the shifter bracket attaches to the chassis. When you do this it may create a vibration of the powertrain through the cables to chassis right inbetween the seats. In the cars that we have installed this on no one has complained about any additional vibrations yet.
To answer some of Dr Harms questions.
1. We have always treated the inside of the trans like a black box. Never really going inside it and don't have alot of info on it.
2. Correct, just the shifter changes and everything else stays the same.
3. The replacement bushings are AL and they are in the Ford Racing shifter kit.
4. As far as the actual shifter itself I believe that the top part of the shifter is a little shorter and the bottom part of it is longer so that way the efforts would stay close to a stock shifter.

I think this has been discussed before but I think the grind is from the fluid since it is a 75W90 weight.

 

[richardhead]

I am still trying to understand why the GT shifter is so vague and what I can do to improve it as I remain unwilling to live with it

BTW--the grind (notable in the am especially when cold) from 1 to 2 is and always was a noted problem with Ferrari transaxles in 275's and even Boxers. There is or was an addative called MS-2 or something like that (Molybidum-Disulphide sic.) that cleared it right up.

The compound you are referring to is molybdenum disulphide, also called "moly". It is a very slippery high pressure lubricant given its characteristics by the MoS2 particles suspended in specially formulated organic carriers. It was originally developed to provide anti-wear and improved lubrication characteristics in the harsh environments encountered with the space program. Dow Corning was a major original commercial producer of the product under the name "Molykote", and sponsored a Can-Am Lola T70 in the early seventies which used the products in the engine and transmission. Dow still manufactures and distributes the products under various application intentions. I believe they now also have the product mixed with a synthetic carrier oil. Go to Dow's web site for more information...Google "Molykote". I do recall the Can Am and Trans Am cars using the products in their transmissions and transaxles reported virtually "zero" wear after races. This was at a time, of course, when synthetic oils were not available.