Tires for R9 Hoosier R6 availability, and Brakes

[Specracer]

Gents, Hoosier direct is out of the R6 245 40 18, they have a new batch scheduled for production, to be available 9-25 ish. This was cutting it too close for me. I was successful ordering from Tire Rack. I did not ask how many they had.

Also a reminder, don't forget your brakes (and clutch fluid while at it). I installed new pads in the rear, and a full flush with Castrol SRF yesterday, now on to the fronts in the next day or so. Here is what I have for the fronts, looking forward to seeing how they work.

 

[cobra498]

I have similar floating AP rotors with Carbotech pads they are great, the original drilled rotors packed up with pad material and had terrible shudder.

 

[RALPHIE]

I have similar floating AP rotors with Carbotech pads they are great, the original drilled rotors packed up with pad material and had terrible shudder.

I drill all the holes out in my OEM rotors to clear the pad debris buildup, anytime I have the wheels off the car (#22 Drill,I think)

 

[KJRGT]

Me too Ralphie. I have a small Phillips screwdriver that slides in and out perfectly.

 

[Xcentric]

Interesting. I never thought to look at the rotor holes, because I don't use my brakes. You know, they just slow you down. But, sure enough, mine were plugged. I don't know if it matters, but I was able to clean almost all of the holes with the base wheels mounted. Lots of black powder on the floor.

 

[Fubar]

Check for stress cracks around those holes. My fronts and rears looked pretty scary.

 

[Indy GT]

Nice rotors Andy!

Although not for my GT I am looking at a new arrival of Hoosiers (295.30ZR19) from Hoosier Direct for the Boss. Great service from them. Heading out to Nebraska for some track time.

I envy those of you hard core racers that flush frequently with Castrol SRF. It is undoubtedly the best high performance brake fluid going (518F wet boiling point) but at $60-70 per liter it it by far the most expensive as well.

You, Stormcat, Rocketman and Team Jeff could probably use the ultimate capacity of this fluid's temperature capability but for most of us "performance" level drivers, I am quite happy with the ATE Type 200 (396F wet boining point). And at about $20 a liter is quite a bit less expensive for a DOT4 fluid and serves my needs quite well.

The GT will be ready to roll at Spring Mtn. See you soon!

 

[FBA]

I have similar floating AP rotors with Carbotech pads they are great, the original drilled rotors packed up with pad material and had terrible shudder.

I have very low miles on my white GT, and also have really bad shudder...

Were your rotors warped?

 

[Xcentric]

Another reason to drive more. Corrosion buildup on the rotors under the calipers from lack of use. Shudder until the pads can grind the rotors smooth.

 

[Specracer]

Thanks Bill, I figured that spending $xxxx on tires, $xxx on pads, $20 vs $80 on 2 litres of fluid is a relative drop in the bucket.... I also used this chart from Pegasus that I thought was helpful


Racing Brake Fluid Comparison Chart

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKEFLUID

Also here is what the rotors looked like (last time car was on track was NOLA). And new rotors finished and on the car. I used up everything at NOLA (pads, and tires) so hoping to have the brakes last longer than NOLA.

 

[Indy GT]

I have that same comparison of fluids and attibutes of each at close hand as well. Very informative. And I have added another column (hard copy) with fluid prices to see relative value to wet boiling point.

Disappointed that ATE was forced to remove their Super Blue product as I used it frequently because it made flushing out the entire brake volume so easy with just a color change. Undoubtedly some other producer went to the Feds and said they were violating Fed Motor Vehicle Safety Std 571.116 S5.1.14 by having a blue colored DOT 4 fluid.

I have 2-piece DBA rotors on the Mustang which showed similar surface crazing marks as your stock rotors display. I don't believe that condition really compromises the surface (from a coefficient of friction or crack neucleation stand point). I surfaced my rings (about 0.006" each side if memory serves) and they work like new.

 

[Nafod]

Specracer,

Are your wheels power coated or painted and did you have them done locally. Feedback on your rotors post rally would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Specracer]

Agree on all Bill, including the "cracking" is not a structural issue (or that big word you used crack neucleation)

Nafod, they are powdercoated, its a "crinkle" textured finish. Has held up well did it over 5 years ago. Was done less than a mile from my shop so local in south east MA.