The GTGUY

[roketman]

Love Rich Roback! And Rich Brooks. Both great guy’s!

 

[oli]

Love Rich Roback! And Rich Brooks. Both great guy’s!

Interesting both called Rich.

 

[Tomcat]

Interesting both called Rich.

And both have worked on my GT.

 

[roketman]

And both have worked on my GT.

I’ve had the pleasure of having them as house guests!

 

[oli]

I’ve had the pleasure of having them as house guests!

I guess you could say your well connected.

 

[oli]

Just heard back from Rich and he says it's do able. He mentioned 'salvage' but I said I would rather not. He was thinking more of a low mileage with salvage but I said I don't mind mileage being just under 100k.

 

[roketman]

Just heard back from Rich and he says it's do able. He mentioned 'salvage' but I said I would rather not. He was thinking more of a low mileage with salvage but I said I don't mind mileage being just under 100k.

I can tell you mileage is a non-issue if the car has been taken care of. At 58K (on mine) I can tell you it’s no different than when it had 5K. I’ve driven several cars with more mileage than what I have I am always amazed at how well they drive and that there’s really little difference between low mileage and high mileage carsThat is however assuming they have been taken care of.Of course having had Rich taking care of my car for 15 years is a plus!!

 

[oli]

Good to know, thanks.

 

[Tomcat]

My Buddy and I switched GTs for a few hours. His had 16,000 miles and I had 44,000 miles...imperceptible difference.

 

[PeteK]

Oli : if your budget is in the mid-$200 range, the only way you will get one is with a salvage or similar title. As I pointed out before, you need to know why it got that title. If it was declared a loss because it was uneconomical to fix, but was not heavily damaged, I recommend that you buy it. That requires that you really know what happened, which is why you want to go through Rich or someone else who really knows these cars and did the repair work. If you’re going to drive the car, it doesn’t matter what title or miles are on it. You will be able to sell it for roughly what you paid for it (or more) 5 or more years from now. If I were looking for a “driver” today, that’s what I would do.

But, if you drive it regularly, like many of us, you will have so much fun that you will keep it until you can’t drive anymore. So it won’t matter what type of title it has.

So reset your criteria. Otherwise, you’ll be sitting on the sidelines forever, wondering, “what if?”.

 

[twobjshelbys]

Oli : if your budget is in the mid-$200 range, the only way you will get one is with a salvage or similar title. As I pointed out before, you need to know why it got that title. If it was declared a loss because it was uneconomical to fix, but was not heavily damaged, I recommend that you buy it. That requires that you really know what happened, which is why you want to go through Rich or someone else who really knows these cars and did the repair work. If you’re going to drive the car, it doesn’t matter what title or miles are on it. You will be able to sell it for roughly what you paid for it (or more) 5 or more years from now. If I were looking for a “driver” today, that’s what I would do.

But, if you drive it regularly, like many of us, you will have so much fun that you will keep it until you can’t drive anymore. So it won’t matter what type of title it has.

So reset your criteria. Otherwise, you’ll be sitting on the sidelines forever, wondering, “what if?”.

What he said. Keep an eye out for a car in your price range. If you find one that claims to be "no stories" then take it with a grain of salt and get someone to do a PPI on it as soon as possible, and say absolutely nothing about it here because if it is 250K no stories car you will soon find your self in the middle of a bidding war

There are also some well known dealer/sellers here (I won't mention their names, just look through the history of posts). Contact them and get on their list. Sometimes they get word of cars for sale that maybe they wouldn't deal with because of stories, but might help in brokering a deal.

GT prices have become chasing a carrot, but the speed of the carrot is starting to be faster than the speed of those chasing! That happened a few years ago too.

 

[extrap]

Mid 250's you're gonna have to get lucky as hell prob with some owner who's done zip for valuation research ... or need a market crash.

9,000-mi red ended today at $360k + $5k fee https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-53/

29,000-mi red ended less than a month ago (11/6/21) at $330k + $5k fee https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-44/

1,700-mi yellow smash-a-roo ended 4 months ago (8/7/21) at $361k +$5k https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-37/

 

[oli]

Mid 250's you're gonna have to get lucky as hell prob with some owner who's done zip for valuation research ... or need a market crash.

9,000-mi red ended today at $360k + $5k fee https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-53/

29,000-mi red ended less than a month ago (11/6/21) at $330k + $5k fee https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-44/

1,700-mi yellow smash-a-roo ended 4 months ago (8/7/21) at $361k +$5k https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-37/

Yes I know things were going up and when ever I got an alert from Dupont or BAT I wouldn't open because it would depress me and that went on for 4 or 5 years of being depressed

 

[bzambranog]

Is there a special way of getting hold of Richard Brooks? Is it just a matter of having patience?
I left him a voice message on his phone a few days ago.

Do you have Richard’s contact?

 

[extrap]

Do you have Richard’s contact?

thegtgaragellc@gmail.com should get you a reply from April.