Smart Junction Box

[JCSB]

So I got a question that maybe someone can answer. Researching the electrical layout lead me to a fuse location in the smart junction box that isn't used and doesn't have the clips for a fuse. It shows in the electrical diagram that this is an additional fuse for use when reverse is in gear. Out of curiosity I took my meter and read the voltage with the key on (0 volts). Then I put it in reverse and it showed 12 volts. So I'm wondering how the clips for the fuses are installed? Are they soldered in or are they pushed in. If they are pushed in can I get a set of clips and installed them in this un-used fuse socket? Any thoughts?

John

 

[JCSB]

I know this is kinda of a tough question, but I am attempting to hook the reverse mirror to this circuit. It is perfect and shows the ability to be switched with the reverse switch.

John

 

[STORMCAT]

I have used those piggy backers devices to create a new fused circuit, They just push right in

 

[nota4re]

Here's what you may be referring to: Ebay

 

[JCSB]

Here's what you may be referring to: Ebay

I have those and they work great. The problem is in slots that have no clips. The circuit board has power to it but no clip. My question is how are the clips attached?

John

 

[JCSB]

I have attached the circuit diagram showing the fuse location (F2.30) I am trying to get to. In the picture showing the smart junction box, the fuse location is second row from the top far left. As you can see there are no clips in the fuse location. If you put a probe on the circuit board the function is correct, meaning that there is no power supplied except when you put the car in reverse. I want to use this location since it would mean that I wouldn't have to splice into a wire to get 12v when the car is in reverse.

So really the question is are the clips soldered in or are they pressed in?

John

 

[Shadowman]

I have attached the circuit diagram showing the fuse location (F2.30) I am trying to get to. In the picture showing the smart junction box, the fuse location is second row from the top far left. As you can see there are no clips in the fuse location. If you put a probe on the circuit board the function is correct, meaning that there is no power supplied except when you put the car in reverse. I want to use this location since it would mean that I wouldn't have to splice into a wire to get 12v when the car is in reverse.

So really the question is are the clips soldered in or are they pressed in?

John

Hi John

I have had the box out however not opened up.

My experience has been that the pins are pressed in place with the wire to them crimped or soldered; most OEM will be crimped.

Now having shared that I do not know if the connectors are typical or something that can be sourced through AMP as a example.

BTW at the taillight the dark gray/black with pink trace is the 12v when the gal is in reverse.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[JCSB]

Hi John

I have had the box out however not opened up.

My experience has been that the pins are pressed in place with the wire to them crimped or soldered; most OEM will be crimped.

Now having shared that I do not know if the connectors are typical or something that can be sourced through AMP as a example.

BTW at the taillight the dark gray/black with pink trace is the 12v when the gal is in reverse.

Takes care

Shadowman

Shadowman,
Well I saw that and really all things being equal that would be the sane thing to do. I found this circuit and it actually works, but there are now clips attached to it that you can use one of the cool fuse duplicators. So I am about ready to jump ship and use the wire at the back up lights. I just thought what a perfect answer where I found it, but it is beginning to look like "no way".:frown

John

 

[Shadowman]

Shadowman,
Well I saw that and really all things being equal that would be the sane thing to do. I found this circuit and it actually works, but there are now clips attached to it that you can use one of the cool fuse duplicators. So I am about ready to jump ship and use the wire at the back up lights. I just thought what a perfect answer where I found it, but it is beginning to look like "no way".:frown

John

John

Before walking the proverbial plank did you open the box? I would speculate further that if you were to do so (this is if it can be opened without secondary damage) then you could migrate another of the unused clips to create a solo circuit.

Just a thought as I think that your direction was/is sound

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[t32b]

Not with the intention of hijacking this thread, but is there any ignition-switched-continuous-power wire in a convenient part of the engine compartment (closer to the taillight the better) to keep the backup camera hot at all times? I picked up one of those Costco wireless units that one of the forum members modified to remain attached and supported at the 12V accessory outlet. I could wire the camera to the reverse wire, but I was always wanting to keep it on at all times.
This needs to be a simple hack. Gutless wimp that I am, and as Shadowman knows, I'm continuously daunted by putting a tool to my GT, even though I've modded the heck out of my Porsche and Prius. Some of you guys simply amaze me in demonstrating a level of mechanical and technical competence that I can only dream of.

 

[BlackICE]

You can easily steal some power from one of the rear O2 sensor's heater circuit.

 

[Shadowman]

Not with the intention of hijacking this thread, but is there any ignition-switched-continuous-power wire in a convenient part of the engine compartment (closer to the taillight the better) to keep the backup camera hot at all times? I picked up one of those Costco wireless units that one of the forum members modified to remain attached and supported at the 12V accessory outlet. I could wire the camera to the reverse wire, but I was always wanting to keep it on at all times.
This needs to be a simple hack. Gutless wimp that I am, and as Shadowman knows, I'm continuously daunted by putting a tool to my GT, even though I've modded the heck out of my Porsche and Prius. Some of you guys simply amaze me in demonstrating a level of mechanical and technical competence that I can only dream of.

t32b you my friend are very capable as you have demonstrated to me through other project pictures.

Now as for constant 12v; I am not an advocate of cutting wiring if not absolutely necessary as such if you drop the rear belly pan you could put a lead on the starter and then fuse the lead as it is fed to the camera. IMO this would be a clean easy to reverse option with no cutting required.

Disconnect the battery before doing this.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[nota4re]

BTW at the taillight the dark gray/black with pink trace is the 12v when the gal is in reverse.

You can also pick up the 12v back-up signal at the (C300) connector on the engine-side of the firewall - pretty much directly behind the passenger seat. This connector is easily accessed with the mid-pan off and is likely nearby where you will want to enter the cabin anyway.

 

[JCSB]

John

Before walking the proverbial plank did you open the box? I would speculate further that if you were to do so (this is if it can be opened without secondary damage) then you could migrate another of the unused clips to create a solo circuit.

Just a thought as I think that your direction was/is sound

Takes care

Shadowman

Thanks, I just thought after finding this circuit what a great place to pickup the reverse from since it would require no cutting and I could stick a fuse in the fuse jumper. I am going to give this a little more time this week and see.

John

 

[fjpikul]

Yeah, and where are our faultless engineers now?

t32, did you think about the license plate light? My nuclear reactor light is run off of it. It only comes on when the light switch is on, but one of the wires must be hot.

 

[Beach-GT]

I connected to the rear defogger grid. The dash switch turns it on for 10 minutes and you can turn it off any time. Just slip the wire in the socket or disconnect the grid and slip a spade in the socket. The top of the grid is PLUS. the bottom is NEGATIVE.

 

[t32b]

Thank you guys, very much.
Shadowman buddy, not surprisingly we see eye to eye on the 'do no harm' thing. So I like the idea of tapping in to the starter motor but I'll likely have to follow up to find out at what point is it persistently hot with the ignition key. I guess I'll have to go take a look. OTOH, my car is due for an oil change and I'm probably going to give it a go myself so the pan will be off. And of course I've got to swap in those beautiful lug nuts.
fjpikul - that's an interesting one too because it is exactly where the camera power needs to be. So a near-zero length bit of wiring also pings my design sense. If there's any way you could 'show me a sign' of which/where is the persistent hot wire, I'd sure appreciate it.
beach-gt - that's a good fall-back. I'd like to minimize the time I run that thing. Doesn't it suck power when it's running? I guess I could (perhaps, haven't looked at it yet) disconnect the window heater. Out here in CA, they're considered ornaments.
This is cool though. Looks like this mod can get done.
Thanks all,
t32b

 

[fjpikul]

t32, the license plate light is an easy pop out. The wires are short though, so don't lose them when you pull it out. Perhaps ShadowMan can talk to AnalogDesigner and get you closer. I'm not at home, so the photos I have from Analog for the nuclear reactor light are not handy. Sorry.

 

[BlackICE]

Frank is your nuclear light red?

 

[fjpikul]

No, I have the first prototype made by Jay. He special shipped it to Rally I in Detroit and I installed it in the parking lot. At the time he only had the ice blue colored light. He did offer other colors later, but I think the blue looks really nice lighting up the supercharger. I've never seen any of the other colors.