Should or Must do's for tracking GT.... + prep

[HOOKED ON GT]

Looked around for many hours searching on tracking GT prep and gather from the conversations (most 10+ years old).... that.

My current plan is I'm going to only track the GT a few times a year if I get on that wagon again.

I did have full race prep E36 M3 for a few years in the early 2000's and finished with renting SR3 Radicals back <2006.

You can upgrade pads front & rear for more track ready compound (stock rotors).
Upgrade front rotors only but do street/track pads all corners. Brembo was the only option years ago.
Upgrade brakes all corners... More options and more $$$

High temp brake fluid.

Trans cooler a must do?

Option to open up brake duct and duct fully if more serious.
Maybe open up license plate in rear for better hot air exit?

I have stock tune but Accufab exhaust, love the new sound V's the stock Tesla sounding exhaust.

What other things would be a must in fluid upgrades/checks?

I'll probably only run at Sebring and have lapped it hundreds of times (15 years ago) and will only drive 6-8 10ths pace...just want to stretch its legs.

I'm going to add the Ohlins V2 as well (for a 50th B-Day coming up)

What about protecting the body from track crap/debris.

I'll have to get new Bridgesone rubber as I think Chin Motorsports (event organiser) has regs on the date code of tires, as mine are 5+ years old.

Please fill in the gaps Ive missed I value your thoughts.... like things that I need to bring to the track for incase moments.

Thanks Stuart A

 

[Specracer]

Stock rotors should be OK, but Girodiscs are an better solution. I only did the fronts. Ohlins are a great upgrade (we have one of the 1st sets). I used 3-4 sets of stock rotors, I swapped them not liking the spider cracks around the holes. Girodiscs are only slotted, not drilled. Scott can help you with these, when you are buying the Ohlins.

Brake fluid is a MUST. Did I mention the importance of brake fluid? I used Castrol SRF, there are others that are less $ that will work (we use a Motul in our race cars)

Pads, I tried several, Padgid yellows were the only ones that were really suitable. These are also "streetable" (with a little squeak). Stock calipers. I am quite sure these will be just fine for you (other can attest, I have taken our GT to 9 10th's on track)

Cooling, I took the "is what it is" attitude. There were days that it was fine, others, it would heat up quickly. Do remember, 2 things will happen, 1st the red light will come on the temp gauge when you get ~240, then after that it will go into "limp" mode. The car will protect it self. I also found short shifting and moderate throttle down the straights helped (I like corners over straights). 6 10ths for a lap, also will bring things down to go at it again.

Seriously consider Hoosier R7's. Bridgestones are a good street tire. Hoosier is a good track tire.

I wrapped the whole car. But if you have not, you can consider the "blue tape" approach (looks terrible), or Xpel Trackwrap.

If you dont have harnesses to use a Hans, consider the Simpson hybrid, its a 3 point approved head restraint system.

Dont forget to "shake" the car down, and check the torque the axle and lug nuts.

Enjoy, the car is a lot of fun on the track.

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

Stock rotors should be OK, but Girodiscs are an better solution. I only did the fronts. Ohlins are a great upgrade (we have one of the 1st sets). I used 3-4 sets of stock rotors, I swapped them not liking the spider cracks around the holes. Girodiscs are only slotted, not drilled. Scott can help you with these, when you are buying the Ohlins.

I might end up doing the Girodiscs in future if I get hooked and see the OEM brakes cracking.... probable.

Brake fluid is a MUST. Did I mention the importance of brake fluid? I used Castrol SRF, there are others that are less $ that will work (we use a Motul in our race cars)

I've used the Castrol SRF on my M5 and happened to throw out an unused can 12 months ago (thought it unless and old) but will invest again for the GT

Pads, I tried several, Padgid yellows were the only ones that were really suitable. These are also "streetable" (with a little squeak). Stock calipers. I am quite sure these will be just fine for you (other can attest, I have taken our GT to 9 10th's on track)

I used Padgid blue on the M5 I think and their a great brand.... Yellow it is for GT.

Cooling, I took the "is what it is" attitude. There were days that it was fine, others, it would heat up quickly. Do remember, 2 things will happen, 1st the red light will come on the temp gauge when you get ~240, then after that it will go into "limp" mode. The car will protect it self. I also found short shifting and moderate throttle down the straights helped (I like corners over straights). 6 10ths for a lap, also will bring things down to go at it again.


Seriously consider Hoosier R7's. Bridgestones are a good street tire. Hoosier is a good track tire.

I agree with he Hoosiers for grip but that adds cost and more heat stress to brakes.
Bridgestones (if I do a couple days a year) might be toast before they get too old and dry so a good thing. I just dont know how many laps at Sebring and 1,000 street miles they will last. I know grips way down with them.....

I wrapped the whole car. But if you have not, you can consider the "blue tape" approach (looks terrible), or Xpel Trackwrap.

Tapes not a good look, but potentially effective...I'll look at the Expel Trackwrap, not sure I want a full wrap (Big $) maybe the more busy areas need to be done.

If you dont have harnesses to use a Hans, consider the Simpson hybrid, its a 3 point approved head restraint system.

I'm a long body 6' and change and big assed head so room will be slouchy to fit. Ive got Hans but not sure of their regs on restraints.

Dont forget to "shake" the car down, and check the torque the axle and lug nuts.

100%

Also I think adding the titanium backing for brakes as well.

Enjoy, the car is a lot of fun on the track.

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

I think I saw members talking about "Evans water coolant" and "water wetter".... never heard of them?

I'm glad that many talked like you about engine temps the limp mode coming into effect and how to "cruse" a bit for lap/2 and it will wake up again.

Does anyone add fans by radiator and engine when in paddock for cooling down assistance?

 

[nota4re]

A few additional thoughts.

DON'T set the parking brake after coming off the track.
Do at least 1 cool -off lap - drive around in the paddocks/parking lot area if needed for more cool down
After shutting down car (leave in gear instead of parking brake), leave clamshell open
A lap at 50-60% after 2-3 successive "hot laps" will help considerably to cool the car and let you stay out longer
Ambient temps will be one of the biggest factors in over-heating the car
Transaxle cooler if you plan to be doing this a few times a year in 75F+ conditions

For first outing, I think stock rotors and pads will do reasonably well. Decide after if you want to upgrade them.
DO upgrade brake fluid before first outing... and if you don't do transaxle cooler, upgrade the clutch fluid at same time as brakes.
Keep eye on tire wear throughout the day

 

[Tomcat]

Check tire pressures...don't overfill.

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

What about clutch.... I saw nothing about clutch upgrades and any issues just using a stock set up?

I did a couple of deliberate clutch slips for a bit of cheeky action the other day and noticed a little clutch burn (smell when I pulled in 2min later) I feel a little jitteriness in the clutch as it finally bites before full take up.
Will this rub off with more normal use...?

Stuart

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

A few additional thoughts.

DON'T set the parking brake after coming off the track.

Yes.....I remember that with my M5

Do at least 1 cool -off lap - drive around in the paddocks/parking lot area if needed for more cool down
After shutting down car (leave in gear instead of parking brake), leave clamshell open
A lap at 50-60% after 2-3 successive "hot laps" will help considerably to cool the car and let you stay out longer

I like that idea..

Ambient temps will be one of the biggest factors in over-heating the car

Not sure what time of year I'll do this 1st event but I'd like to beat the FL summer heat.

Transaxle cooler if you plan to be doing this a few times a year in 75F+ conditions

Are there trans temp sensors if stock system gets hot?

Trans cooler might be on the list once I know how I go with first GT track showing (sounds more then likely)

For first outing, I think stock rotors and pads will do reasonably well. Decide after if you want to upgrade them.

That might be the way to feel it out, but saying that not many people (only my thoughts) seemed to be able to stay stock brake/pads unless your just driving with a bit of zest (5-7 10ths)
I would think say Padgid yellows on OEM rotors will cop a beating and toast the rotors in one day?
Might talk with Scott whilst I do the shock upgrade for fronts.


DO upgrade brake fluid before first outing... and if you don't do transaxle cooler, upgrade the clutch fluid at same time as brakes.

A must I'd say for a fluid upgrade for both......Same fluid ?

Keep eye on tire wear throughout the day

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

Check tire pressures...don't overfill.

Whats a nice hot tire temp with the B/Stones ya think ....35lb ?

 

[GT@50]

A video camera, that shows data, so you can share with us.

 

[Nafod]

Only one car I know of that has functional front brake scoops. Major job relocating A/C lines.. Believe Rich Brooks (GTG) did the mod.
That car also had the Evans coolant, custom radiator(GTG) and shrouding for better cooling. Pully and tune( which will add heat). That car tended to be very fast on the track unless he was in a cooldown lap .

I use the Carbotech XP10 pads. Stock rotors, though I'll be going to the Giodisc. Good braking, some dust ,squeal , but I like the better braking.

 

[GTMD]

What about clutch.... I saw nothing about clutch upgrades and any issues just using a stock set up?

I did a couple of deliberate clutch slips for a bit of cheeky action the other day and noticed a little clutch burn (smell when I pulled in 2min later) I feel a little jitteriness in the clutch as it finally bites before full take up.
Will this rub off with more normal use...?

Stuart

Kendall is right about the clutch fluid...

I'm not a track veteran but when I tracked my GT in SLC I boiled the clutch fluid and lost clutch disengagement because it had not been changed in years and had accumulated water. Once it cooled down, all was good again. IMO the clutch itself is fine and not a weak point but the way the clutch fluid is routed to the clutch from the master cylinder, it gets very close to the right catalytic converter and exhaust pipe and has a tendency to overheat. So changing your clutch fluid is a must!

 

[texas mongrel]

If you don’t already have it, you need a transaxle cooler or, as others have already noted, you’ll lose the clutch pedal after a couple of sessions. The cooler solves this problem. And take lessons on spin control, these cars turn you from hero to zero in a heartbeat!

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

A video camera, that shows data, so you can share with us.

Might have to do that ..

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

Kendall is right about the clutch fluid...

I'm not a track veteran but when I tracked my GT in SLC I boiled the clutch fluid and lost clutch disengagement because it had not been changed in years and had accumulated water. Once it cooled down, all was good again. IMO the clutch itself is fine and not a weak point but the way the clutch fluid is routed to the clutch from the master cylinder, it gets very close to the right catalytic converter and exhaust pipe and has a tendency to overheat. So changing your clutch fluid is a must!

Great info...love it.... keep it coming...will do the brake and clutch fluid and probably the trans cooler as FL is hardly cold, so hard to avoid and a non intrusive addition..

 

[HOOKED ON GT]

Only one car I know of that has functional front brake scoops. Major job relocating A/C lines.. Believe Rich Brooks (GTG) did the mod.
That car also had the Evans coolant, custom radiator(GTG) and shrouding for better cooling. Pully and tune( which will add heat). That car tended to be very fast on the track unless he was in a cooldown lap .

I use the Carbotech XP10 pads. Stock rotors, though I'll be going to the Giodisc. Good braking, some dust ,squeal , but I like the better braking.

I did see that post about the special ducting to the fronts...im not committed to that sort of change, will stick with maybe removing the blockers in there now.... and maybe upgraded discs on second outing on the rotor side of things..

 

[GT@50]

I did see that post about the special ducting to the fronts...im not committed to that sort of change, will stick with maybe removing the blockers in there now.... and maybe upgraded discs on second outing on the rotor side of things..

Pull the splitter and have a peak. Major obstacles in the way of ducting and no real exit if you unblock the inlets. Might be easier to put a NACA duct and ducting on the splitter to feed the brakes.
Trans cooler for sure! TRY and touch the trans after typical street driving.
Heat shield for starter wiring
Halon system
Harness
Remove radiator screen if yours has it
Take the license plate off

 

[B.M.F.]

BUY TRACK INSURANCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Simon]

pm sent

 

[TO AWSUM]

Make sure your airconditioning is turned "ON" during cool down. It helps cool the engine by running the fans longer. You can run the AC while on the track with no noticeable change in performance especially if only running 8/10ths.