Shift Cable Adjustment Specs?

[KJRGT]

Lately I have noticed that after start up and about 3-5 minutes of warm up idling, when I go to put the GT into Reverse, it's really hard to get it to engage. I mean REALLY hard.

While driving, the shifting is exactly the same as it's always been during the 21,000 miles I've enjoyed. Everything is fine.

I looked over the manual for specs on adjusting the cable, thinking that I may need to tweak it some.

While I can find the section on transmission cable adjustment, I cannot find anywhere the actual specs or how to measure them.

What am I missing?? :willy

 

[Kayvan]

3 sets of curls with 25lbs 3x wk

NY Strip Steak 2x wk


Discontinue use of lotion, rings, bracelets on hand.

 

[Xcentric]

^^^hahaha! Just to be clear about the issue, pulling left through the gate is ok, but pushing up into reverse gear is the problem?

And engaging/releasing the clutch and/or shifting into another gear and trying reverse again doesn't help? And you don't get a crunch?

Also, in gear and foot off the gas pedal, how far does the clutch pedal come up before the rpms drop? Just trying to make sure the clutch isn't causing the problem.

 

[BlackICE]

The easiest thing to try is to open the clamshell and have someone move the shiffer to the left while you note which cable is moving on top of the transaxle. Loosen the cable housing locknut and adjust the length. If the cable is lengthing when moving the shifter to the left, make the cable housing shorter, if the cable is shorting make the housing longer.

I had the same problem when I got cute and tried to cant the shifter towards the driver in the neutral position. Try to back out of the garage and it was really hard to get into reverse. The shifter being in the non-stock position gives it less leverage to move the gears and in extreme settings the shifter may buttom out before ever moving far enough.

 

[freeflyer]

I've also seen many a cable damaged by heat where it passes through the engine.

 

[jcthorne]

Have you changed and blead your clutch lately? Is the fluid in the reserviour clean and clear? Dirty fluid is spongy also, fluid with moisture from the air in it develops small bubbles when it gets hot near the engine and the bubbles do not go away when the fluid cools.

IE the clutch does not FULLY release and reverse is where you feel it first. Been there, thought I was having shifter problems or clutch problems......new clean fluid front to stern and a proper bleading according to the manual directions solved it.

 

[KJRGT]

The only thing that is different is that first go into reverse to back it out of the driveway. All other shifting is the same. Even reverse is easy once warmed up.
The clutch fluid has 6,000 miles on it.
Clinton I think you hit it. I'll give that a try.
But isn't it peculiar there is no measurement/spec to set the cable or arm at? What do you do if you remove/replace the cable? We're do you start?
Thanks guys.

PS. Kayvan. Tanks for the fitness tip! THink I'm good there......LOL.

 

[BlackICE]

The only thing that is different is that first go into reverse to back it out of the driveway. All other shifting is the same. Even reverse is easy once warmed up.
The clutch fluid has 6,000 miles on it.
Clinton I think you hit it. I'll give that a try.
But isn't it peculiar there is no measurement/spec to set the cable or arm at? What do you do if you remove/replace the cable? We're do you start?
Thanks guys.

There is a Ford to to adjust the cables, but it works on the shifter end and you have to remove your tunnel. IMO the tool is used in speed up the adjustment an isn't needed to do the job if you have the time. The key thing is to have the shifter in a mechanical position with enough cable throw and leverage to move the linkage. All of the "smarts" are in the transaxle. Of course if you go to extremes using a manual adjustment you may not be able to fully engage a gear and DAMAGE can occur!

 

[jcthorne]

The only thing that is different is that first go into reverse to back it out of the driveway. All other shifting is the same. Even reverse is easy once warmed up.
The clutch fluid has 6,000 miles on it.
.

6000 miles and 6 or 7 years in a non-sealed system. The fluid absorbs moisture just sitting still. You REALLY need to flush and bleed the clutch to ensure it is FULLY releasing the pressure plate when cold before you go headlong into modifiying the shift linkage. If the shift linkage was adjusted properly before it is very unlikely to get out of adjustment unless one end or the other of the cables is removed such as for installing a shifter or removal of the transmission. If engagement is diffecult but does eventually engage, the shift linkage is long enough, just having trouble getting there. Making the x axis cable longer will just make it more diffecult to get to 5th and 6th gates.

 

[KJRGT]

The clutch fluid has been in the car 3 years. Will do a change out to begin with and see if that solves the issue.
Thanks guys.

 

[nota4re]

Even reverse is easy once warmed up.

Therefore unlikely a clutch linkage issue.

Yeah, change the transaxle fluid - Ford recommends after 1 year (regardless of mileage) and then every 3 years thereafter.

The best way to engage reverse is to have the car rock -even just a fraction. If you put the car in 1st and let the clutch out just slightly to generate fractional forward motion, then immediately depress the clutch and engage reverse - it will work 99% of the time. It may take a litlle practice as you need to catch the car in either its rock forward or backward.

 

[KJRGT]

Thanks Kendall for the "rocking" tip!

 

[dlpaben]

Try talking to Evan Guyett at Guyettperformance.com. He really knows how to align the shifter. He seems to help a ton of people with this problem.

 

[Fast Freddy]

i accidently left my GT in 1st gear one time while towing it in my enclosed Trailex trailer. now the shifter is sticky when going into first gear. could i have stretched my cable and can this be adjusted if so or does it need to be replaced?