- Sep 19, 2006
- 169
Hello, Everyone…
There has been some discussion on the forum regarding the intermittent operation or failure of one or both of the two front turn signal bulbs. The basic thrust is how to access the units for replacement, but it turns out there are actually a number of things to attend to when working with these bulbs.
My driver’s side front turn signal in the headlight assembly started going intermittent on me a few weeks ago. Symptom was a fast clicking sound when the front bulb was not flashing, then back to normal clicking when it did flash. I thought I had a broken turn filament that reconnected when it was jostled, since the running light filament in the same bulb seemed to work fine.
It turns out, this issue embraces a number of “challenges/fixes” if one is to correctly address the entire problem scenario. The issue with the bulb is one of (1) how to get it out as simply as possible, (2) why did it malfunction if the filament just didn't burn out, and what to do to address either (2A) the filament burnout or (2B) another cause...when replacing the bulb. In addition, (3) the type of bulb used for replacement will make a difference in the long term viability of the overall solution.
Right up front I want to credit “Shadowman” and “nota4re” for their help. Shadowman sent me a photo of the back of the headlight assembly for use in locating the turn signal bulb (I’ve asked Bill to post this photo if my copy from him doesn't upload), and “nota4re” voiced an observation on oxidation of bulb contacts in one of his posts on the subject, which was right on the money with my circumstance…and I now presume is an issue with all the cars’ headlight assemblies. Thank you, Bill and Kendall, for your help.
(1) The driver side front turn signal bulb can be removed without removal of the wheel and fender liner. The front spoiler should be removed first (simply break off the head of the flat push-in retainer; you’ll need to get a new plastic push in retainer when reinstalling the spoiler, or you can use the screw-in type of plastic retainer which is easily removable without breaking off the head), then the screw-in retainer on the lower left side of the driver side fender holding the fender to the outer body piece. The body piece should be edge wrapped with a cotton wash rag and pulled down and away from the car, gently. Then the fender liner lower left lip can be pulled up, forward and over the outer body piece protected by the wash rag. Roll a towel into about an 8-9” long roll and slip it between the fender liner front edge and the body panel piece to create a larger opening which will stay in place (thanks to the towel) to allow more room to reach up with your right arm from below. Its pretty easy to see how to do this when you try it.
(2) You can then reach up to the far left behind the headlight assembly and feel the bulb retainer. It has a plastic sheathed wire connected to it, and a thin plastic “fin” at the bottom part of the retainer. It isn’t easy, but patiently and carefully twist/work the retainer counter-clockwise and it will turn out. You can then drop the assembly down and remove the bulb. Reverse the procedure to re-install after replacing the bulb. To align the retainer when replacing it, remember the “fin” is vertical when properly installed. So to find the spot to insert the retainer, the “fin” must point to the left of vertical. Then turn the receptacle clockwise until the fin is vertical. A little dielectric grease on its contact surface will make it turn in more easily than it turned out.
(3) Before replacing the bulb, check the one you took out. Mine did not have either filament burned out, but had oxidation on the contacts. If the bulb had a burned out filament, the following process should also be followed: Use a new bulb, even if yours merely had oxidized contacts (see bulb section following) and coat its contacts with dielectric grease. You can clean the wire harness connections with a cotton swab and some white vinegar, rinse with rubbing alcohol on a swab, but be sure the connector is dry (use a hair dryer) before doing the next step. Then, put a small amount of dielectric grease in the connector and work it around with a toothpick. Then, slide the new bulb in and out of the connector a few times to be sure the harness contacts are “clean”. Then, repack the end of the bulb with a small amount of dielectric grease and insert the bulb. Wipe off any excess grease that squeezed out. The bulb and receptacle can now be reinserted into the headlamp assembly.
(4) THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN BULBS WHEN YOU GO TO BUY A REPLACEMENT. There are “standard”, “long life” and “long life Krypton Gas” versions, and there are color differences between manufacturers. The standard and long life versions are rated from 400 hours up to about 800 hours of life at 12.8 volts. The “long life” Sylvania “optional bulb” number is rated at up to 4,000 hours at 12.8 volts. The Sylvania is also the exact same color as the OEM bulb. Some of the others I looked at were lighter in tint (EiKA, found at O’Reilly’s). The standard replacement bulb is a “3457NA/3357NA”. The standard “Long Life” versions are 3457NALL/3357NALL, and the “optional” Sylvania version is a “4157NALL/3157NA LL”. There is a thread on this bulb situation at the Saturnalia Forum site, and specs on the Sylvania site. It appears, from its design, the original bulbs were Wagner.
(5) The technical information on the Sylvania long life bulbs is readily available. Wagner did not respond to my inquiry about their long life bulbs, even after three tries.
I assume the same oxidation issue exists with the bulb in the right headlight assembly. It was interesting for me to note when replacing my GM bulb assemblies, the originals all came from the factory with dielectric grease protecting the connections.
My concern is the oxidation, whatever its cause, may damage the receptacle for the bulb assembly, so preventive maintenance on these potentially expensive units might be in order for all of our cars. Worst case could be a galvanic reaction between the OEM bulb contacts and the wire harness contacts. All it should take to mitigate the problem is the addition of the dielectric grease and a couple of the longer-lasting bulbs from Sylvania…at least one would hope.
I am going to take a look at the issue of replacing the passenger side headlight assembly right turn signal bulb later in the week as long as everything is apart. It may be a bigger pain (i.e., requiring wheel and fender liner removal, plus additional parts removal) to access the bulb receptacle. I’ll add my observations to this post as I proceed.
UPDATE: The passenger side replacement will require removal of the fender liner, as near as I can tell. If anyone else has done the job on the passenger side, please describe for the benefit of all.
On another note, Shadowman has indicated there is not a replacement headlamp bulb available for the headlight assembly, and when the bulb goes the whole assembly has to be replaced. Very expensive. There may be a way to disassemble and rebuild these units, including being able to simply replace the clear cover (if they can be made or are available), and anyone having a bad/broken one who is willing to send it to me and let me play with it, please PM me and I’ll send you a mailing address. Here are links to a similar process with a Pontiac Solstice unit. The key for us is how the clear cover is removed, and if that would allow simple replacement of the HID bulb or the cover, if available.
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1umAEkQV20
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nq2FImcV0VI
Any other thoughts on servicing these assemblies, please comment. Thanks!
There has been some discussion on the forum regarding the intermittent operation or failure of one or both of the two front turn signal bulbs. The basic thrust is how to access the units for replacement, but it turns out there are actually a number of things to attend to when working with these bulbs.
My driver’s side front turn signal in the headlight assembly started going intermittent on me a few weeks ago. Symptom was a fast clicking sound when the front bulb was not flashing, then back to normal clicking when it did flash. I thought I had a broken turn filament that reconnected when it was jostled, since the running light filament in the same bulb seemed to work fine.
It turns out, this issue embraces a number of “challenges/fixes” if one is to correctly address the entire problem scenario. The issue with the bulb is one of (1) how to get it out as simply as possible, (2) why did it malfunction if the filament just didn't burn out, and what to do to address either (2A) the filament burnout or (2B) another cause...when replacing the bulb. In addition, (3) the type of bulb used for replacement will make a difference in the long term viability of the overall solution.
Right up front I want to credit “Shadowman” and “nota4re” for their help. Shadowman sent me a photo of the back of the headlight assembly for use in locating the turn signal bulb (I’ve asked Bill to post this photo if my copy from him doesn't upload), and “nota4re” voiced an observation on oxidation of bulb contacts in one of his posts on the subject, which was right on the money with my circumstance…and I now presume is an issue with all the cars’ headlight assemblies. Thank you, Bill and Kendall, for your help.
(1) The driver side front turn signal bulb can be removed without removal of the wheel and fender liner. The front spoiler should be removed first (simply break off the head of the flat push-in retainer; you’ll need to get a new plastic push in retainer when reinstalling the spoiler, or you can use the screw-in type of plastic retainer which is easily removable without breaking off the head), then the screw-in retainer on the lower left side of the driver side fender holding the fender to the outer body piece. The body piece should be edge wrapped with a cotton wash rag and pulled down and away from the car, gently. Then the fender liner lower left lip can be pulled up, forward and over the outer body piece protected by the wash rag. Roll a towel into about an 8-9” long roll and slip it between the fender liner front edge and the body panel piece to create a larger opening which will stay in place (thanks to the towel) to allow more room to reach up with your right arm from below. Its pretty easy to see how to do this when you try it.
(2) You can then reach up to the far left behind the headlight assembly and feel the bulb retainer. It has a plastic sheathed wire connected to it, and a thin plastic “fin” at the bottom part of the retainer. It isn’t easy, but patiently and carefully twist/work the retainer counter-clockwise and it will turn out. You can then drop the assembly down and remove the bulb. Reverse the procedure to re-install after replacing the bulb. To align the retainer when replacing it, remember the “fin” is vertical when properly installed. So to find the spot to insert the retainer, the “fin” must point to the left of vertical. Then turn the receptacle clockwise until the fin is vertical. A little dielectric grease on its contact surface will make it turn in more easily than it turned out.
(3) Before replacing the bulb, check the one you took out. Mine did not have either filament burned out, but had oxidation on the contacts. If the bulb had a burned out filament, the following process should also be followed: Use a new bulb, even if yours merely had oxidized contacts (see bulb section following) and coat its contacts with dielectric grease. You can clean the wire harness connections with a cotton swab and some white vinegar, rinse with rubbing alcohol on a swab, but be sure the connector is dry (use a hair dryer) before doing the next step. Then, put a small amount of dielectric grease in the connector and work it around with a toothpick. Then, slide the new bulb in and out of the connector a few times to be sure the harness contacts are “clean”. Then, repack the end of the bulb with a small amount of dielectric grease and insert the bulb. Wipe off any excess grease that squeezed out. The bulb and receptacle can now be reinserted into the headlamp assembly.
(4) THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN BULBS WHEN YOU GO TO BUY A REPLACEMENT. There are “standard”, “long life” and “long life Krypton Gas” versions, and there are color differences between manufacturers. The standard and long life versions are rated from 400 hours up to about 800 hours of life at 12.8 volts. The “long life” Sylvania “optional bulb” number is rated at up to 4,000 hours at 12.8 volts. The Sylvania is also the exact same color as the OEM bulb. Some of the others I looked at were lighter in tint (EiKA, found at O’Reilly’s). The standard replacement bulb is a “3457NA/3357NA”. The standard “Long Life” versions are 3457NALL/3357NALL, and the “optional” Sylvania version is a “4157NALL/3157NA LL”. There is a thread on this bulb situation at the Saturnalia Forum site, and specs on the Sylvania site. It appears, from its design, the original bulbs were Wagner.
(5) The technical information on the Sylvania long life bulbs is readily available. Wagner did not respond to my inquiry about their long life bulbs, even after three tries.
I assume the same oxidation issue exists with the bulb in the right headlight assembly. It was interesting for me to note when replacing my GM bulb assemblies, the originals all came from the factory with dielectric grease protecting the connections.
My concern is the oxidation, whatever its cause, may damage the receptacle for the bulb assembly, so preventive maintenance on these potentially expensive units might be in order for all of our cars. Worst case could be a galvanic reaction between the OEM bulb contacts and the wire harness contacts. All it should take to mitigate the problem is the addition of the dielectric grease and a couple of the longer-lasting bulbs from Sylvania…at least one would hope.
I am going to take a look at the issue of replacing the passenger side headlight assembly right turn signal bulb later in the week as long as everything is apart. It may be a bigger pain (i.e., requiring wheel and fender liner removal, plus additional parts removal) to access the bulb receptacle. I’ll add my observations to this post as I proceed.
UPDATE: The passenger side replacement will require removal of the fender liner, as near as I can tell. If anyone else has done the job on the passenger side, please describe for the benefit of all.
On another note, Shadowman has indicated there is not a replacement headlamp bulb available for the headlight assembly, and when the bulb goes the whole assembly has to be replaced. Very expensive. There may be a way to disassemble and rebuild these units, including being able to simply replace the clear cover (if they can be made or are available), and anyone having a bad/broken one who is willing to send it to me and let me play with it, please PM me and I’ll send you a mailing address. Here are links to a similar process with a Pontiac Solstice unit. The key for us is how the clear cover is removed, and if that would allow simple replacement of the HID bulb or the cover, if available.
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1umAEkQV20
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nq2FImcV0VI
Any other thoughts on servicing these assemblies, please comment. Thanks!
Attachments
Last edited:
