[Questions] '05 Ford GT cylinder numbers and code reading

[BA.SE]

Hey, Hi, hello, how are ya?

Got a few question that I can't find answers to, like anywhere. So figured I would ask.

Reading codes - is there a better tool?
- The current tool I am using it able to read almost everything, but there seems to be some limitations with logging and is rather vague in terms of module naming. So I'm just curious to know if there is either software or a tool that has better communication with the ECUs on the GT? Something like Ross-Tech's VCDS. I can currently log a good amount of the engine but would like more if possible and the ability to view each module individually.

Cylinder numbering?
- I am currently having a supposed misfire on cylinder #6 under heavy load. Plugs are new but am starting small before I go big (Also getting a no response code/bad voltage from a fuel relay. oh joy..) So I am just wondering is someone has a diagram or knows the cylinder numbering order. It would help with diagnosing the issue quicker and allow me to enjoy the car more.

Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate any help.

 

[twobjshelbys]

I use a bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque Light app. Works on all vehicles. Torque light (free) has logging for some things, the paid version expands.

 

[B.M.F.]

If you have a bad fuel pump or a dead FPDM I would not be doing any wot pull, other wise you are gonna have a hole in a piston. Have you checked fuel pressure under load? I would start with fuel pressure issue first. Then work your way to possibly a bad injector or clogged injector..

 

[twobjshelbys]

If you have a bad fuel pump or a dead FPDM I would not be doing any wot pull, other wise you are gonna have a hole in a piston. Have you checked fuel pressure under load? I would start with fuel pressure issue first. Then work your way to possibly a bad injector or clogged injector..

If it's always the same cylinder it could also be the ignition pack.

 

[GT@50]

#1 is passenger front, #5 is driver front. 1234 on passenger, 5678 on driver
Swap coil 6 with another and see if the code follows the coil but start with fuel code. What are the code #'s? Two relays in frunk have been known to have bad connections. Take out and reinstall. Should give a better connection. Clean the ground at the frame next to battery too.

 

[B.M.F.]

If it's always the same cylinder it could also be the ignition pack.

I have not seen many coils be bad under boost and not bad all the time. Not saying it can't happen tho. Him saying he has a fuel pump code is not a good thing along with a miss under load.

 

[BA.SE]

I use a bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque Light app. Works on all vehicles. Torque light (free) has logging for some things, the paid version expands.

Cool I’ll give it a look and see if its more in depth, Thank you!

If you have a bad fuel pump or a dead FPDM I would not be doing any wot pull, other wise you are gonna have a hole in a piston. Have you checked fuel pressure under load? I would start with fuel pressure issue first. Then work your way to possibly a bad injector or clogged injector..

I only noticed the issue right at 3500rpm while going for a WOT pull. Since then the car has been chilling while I deal with other things. I was able to log fuel pressures under load and all seemed normal, as well as monitored voltages for both fuel pumps. This issue happened a while back too but new plugs solved the issue and a rest of the fuel relays. Im assuming it threw a code for that because it was cutting fuel because of a misfire from spark? Idk. I know with some ecus it’ll throw a few codes at you because of one issue.

If it's always the same cylinder it could also be the ignition pack.

Thats my hope. Gonna inspect the plugs too. Start small and move up from there.

#1 is passenger front, #5 is driver front. 1234 on passenger, 5678 on driver
Swap coil 6 with another and see if the code follows the coil but start with fuel code. What are the code #'s? Two relays in frunk have been known to have bad connections. Take out and reinstall. Should give a better connection. Clean the ground at the frame next to battery too.

Thanks, I appreciate that! Thats my plan, I’ll post the codes here once I have them up and reading. I remember when originally looking at them and googling them kinda gave me nothing - kinda my reasoning for asking. My main thing is I want to know if one issue (misfiring from spark) will lead to the computer throwing a code for another item (fuel relay) because its start to shut down and save itself. Like I know BMWs and VAG stuff will give you a few things as a result of one thing.

I have not seen many coils be bad under boost and not bad all the time. Not saying it can't happen tho. Him saying he has a fuel pump code is not a good thing along with a miss under load.

I’ve had this happen multiple times on other more demanding things. Idle and cruising is no problem, but as soon as heavy load is put on the engine it’ll misfire and then limp. I had a heavily modified Mini do that to me recently after I put new plugs in. It tattled on the coil pretty quick, but also threw a code regarding the HPFP because it went into limp.

Anyway, car is going under the knife today so we’ll see what I find. Could also be a case of a bad maf, but the cylinder #6 call out is very specific. I really hope it isn’t a fuel pump because I would rather not drop the tank or take apart the interior and motivate the chassis out of the way with a hammer to make room…

 

[PeteK]

Agree. Full throttle and boost (highest effective compression) provide he greatest resistance in the spark plug gap, so if a coil is going bad, that's where it tends to show up first. I've found that temperature and humidity also make bad coils more apt to misfire.

 

[BA.SE]

Alright soooo, I wasn’t really able to find much, because I can’t drive the car because of weather, but found three odd things.

- The car will now throw a CEL at random, report it as bad voltage from the maf, and then decide all is fine and correct itself. The code is still left around in the stored section.
- the code for fuel relay came back, went away, and then never came back
- got a bonus code for fuel select switch circuit

Here are the three codes for anyone who can maybe shed more light on the situation:
- P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A circuit Low
- P0611 Fuel Injector Control Module performance
- P1156 Fuel Select switch circ

More fun to be had. Let me know your thoughts. Oh and to add - this GT is 100% stock. No pulleys, no fuel upgrades, no exhaust, no tune.

 

[twobjshelbys]

It could be a Mass Air Flow sensor, but I wonder if a MAF event is what you get if your air intake tube collapses. You said no pulley/tune though. Are the codes associated with operation at WOT?

Also obvious to check the air cleaners filters...

 

[BA.SE]

It could be a Mass Air Flow sensor, but I wonder if a MAF event is what you get if your air intake tube collapses. You said no pulley/tune though. Are the codes associated with operation at WOT?

Also obvious to check the air cleaners filters...

So these three codes I just got from blipping the throttle to various degree, with the engine at operating temps. Seems to hesitate when the throttle is stabbed. Like dips down, then will pick up quickly. Even though stock - would running 110 unleaded be the cause? I put some in last year with a mix of 93 on top. I would assume the GT has the capacity to adjust timing and duty for a bit of 110 unleaded. But maybe im super wrong.

I’ll be pulling the MAF for a visual inspection to make sure its clean and clear. Kinda strange for such a low mileage car to have MAF issues, but here we are.

 

[GT@50]

Not likely to have three problems. What's in common with them all, voltage. Did you take off, clean and reattach battery ground at frame?

 

[BA.SE]

Not likely to have three problems. What's in common with them all, voltage. Did you take off, clean and reattach battery ground at frame?

Not yet, no. I’ll see how it looks and give it a clean.

So kinda a list of things I should check out:
- Check Fuel Pump Relay’s for any connection issues
- Check/Clean battery ground at frame
- Check and possible clean/replace maf

Car starts fine, turns over pretty aggressive but I did notice the cold start sometimes does take a smidge longer than when warm. I also can’t check the misfire error until I can get the car on the road and do a small pull. Regardless looks like the trunk tray is coming out

 

[dshears]

My car has 5,300 miles on it and spit a couple of codes (wrote them down but the paper grew legs). Pulled the MAF, looked good, cleaned it and had the same problem. Put a new MAF in and my car runs perfect with no codes now. I do remember the P0102 code.

 

[twobjshelbys]

I'd run that tank down and start with the correct fuel.

So these three codes I just got from blipping the throttle to various degree, with the engine at operating temps. Seems to hesitate when the throttle is stabbed. Like dips down, then will pick up quickly. Even though stock - would running 110 unleaded be the cause? I put some in last year with a mix of 93 on top. I would assume the GT has the capacity to adjust timing and duty for a bit of 110 unleaded. But maybe im super wrong.

I’ll be pulling the MAF for a visual inspection to make sure its clean and clear. Kinda strange for such a low mileage car to have MAF issues, but here we are.

I would definitely use the high octane and run the recommended before doing lots of fixes...

 

[BA.SE]

My car has 5,300 miles on it and spit a couple of codes (wrote them down but the paper grew legs). Pulled the MAF, looked good, cleaned it and had the same problem. Put a new MAF in and my car runs perfect with no codes now. I do remember the P0102 code.

You wouldn’t happen to know the part number for the MAF, would you? I searched for it but not sure if im getting the correct one or one for a mustang. Cleaning is a real hit or miss kinda thing and I would like to just go with a new one. Kinda makes sense it would lead to fuel issues, being the car has no idea how much air is being pulled in through the intake.

I also tried to log/observe the MAF and its measurements never changed but just held one constant value despite engine RPM changing. So guess the thing might be straight shot and the ECU is just defaulting to a baseline value.

I'd run that tank down and start with the correct fuel.


I would definitely use the high octane and run the recommended before doing lots of fixes...

Yeah i’ll probably do that too. I just find it kinda odd that the car can’t adjust for a smidge amount. Oh well, possible lesson learned.

 

[dshears]

I bought it from Rock auto back in October--- Motorcraft Part # AFLS133

 

[BA.SE]

I bought it from Rock auto back in October--- Motorcraft Part # AFLS133

Awesome, thank you! Got one in the mail and on the way!

 

[nota4re]

I would assume the GT has the capacity to adjust timing and duty for a bit of 110 unleaded.

It does not.

 

[BA.SE]

It does not.

That’s surprising, yet here we are. Noted now - only run 93. Now just need to buy a drum without ethanol..