Problems starting the engine
- Thread starter Fubar
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
The block off plates were probably an attempt to prevent suction of hot air from the engine compartment into the the engines intake. Not a good idea, as others have posted it can cause turbulent air to upset the MAF readings. Engineers at major car companies don't add costs to the cars without good reason. The part was designed that way for a good reason.
cobrar1339
GT Owner
More pure speculation.
I agree the block off plate should not be there. But, given that you have noted that the stalling is happening when you are not really moving , I doubt this is the problem. It maybe be contributing, but it does not make much sense to me that they would cause sever issues at near idle. Unless it cannot draw enough air with them closed.
One other question is if you have a K&N air filter in there as well. An over oiled K&N can throw oil on the MAF wire and cause all kinds of issues. It can normally be cleaned off with some electrical contact cleaner. If the previous owner thought he needed to get more ram air effect, it makes sense that he may have also added the K&N filter. You should be able to tell with a flashlight looking into the housing intake. Of just stick you camera there and take flash pic.
If not the fuel neck, I am still guessing ELECTRICAL, did you check the ground yet?.
Also worth noting is that changing the filler does not mean the new filler works any better. I have seen replacement parts be bad out of the box. Most mfgs are very happy to be 98% good. Hope you are not one of the luckey 2%.
Sorry to hear the issues you have had. I would guess it's something simple in the end.
I agree the block off plate should not be there. But, given that you have noted that the stalling is happening when you are not really moving , I doubt this is the problem. It maybe be contributing, but it does not make much sense to me that they would cause sever issues at near idle. Unless it cannot draw enough air with them closed.
One other question is if you have a K&N air filter in there as well. An over oiled K&N can throw oil on the MAF wire and cause all kinds of issues. It can normally be cleaned off with some electrical contact cleaner. If the previous owner thought he needed to get more ram air effect, it makes sense that he may have also added the K&N filter. You should be able to tell with a flashlight looking into the housing intake. Of just stick you camera there and take flash pic.
If not the fuel neck, I am still guessing ELECTRICAL, did you check the ground yet?.
Also worth noting is that changing the filler does not mean the new filler works any better. I have seen replacement parts be bad out of the box. Most mfgs are very happy to be 98% good. Hope you are not one of the luckey 2%.
Sorry to hear the issues you have had. I would guess it's something simple in the end.
I dont know a lot about mechanics but Im guessing that problem only happens when Im not moving because I am not on the accelerator when Im not moving. Wouldnt having the throttle depressed prevent that problem from occurring?
The dealer did inspect/test the new fuel filler for cracks this past time and didnt find any.
Is the tune also a possibility? My next two steps are to remove the block off and get a custom dyno tune instead of the generic tune that several tuners use.
Im not too familiar with working on the car so Im going to need pretty specific directions to check the ground wire issue. Might have the guys check it when i take it in for a dyno tune next week.
Either way, a lot of you have been way more helpful with the diagnosis than the dealer was. I really appreciate it. Hopefully, I have this problem nailed down by next week.
The dealer did inspect/test the new fuel filler for cracks this past time and didnt find any.
Is the tune also a possibility? My next two steps are to remove the block off and get a custom dyno tune instead of the generic tune that several tuners use.
Im not too familiar with working on the car so Im going to need pretty specific directions to check the ground wire issue. Might have the guys check it when i take it in for a dyno tune next week.
Either way, a lot of you have been way more helpful with the diagnosis than the dealer was. I really appreciate it. Hopefully, I have this problem nailed down by next week.
cobrar1339
GT Owner
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7291&highlight=battery+ground
Open Hood
Remove the 4 plastic clips that hold in the trunk liner
Lift out the liner ( remove the air inflator first to make it easier to lift)
You will see the battery
Follow the black ground cable attached to the battery to the frame.
This cable will terminate on a frame rail that is easy to see and get to.
There will be two other ring terminals under this connection
Think three rings stacked with a bolt in the center
Tighten this bolt. I think it was an 8mm or 10mm socket I used.
If it turns easy it is likely your problem. Good and snug, not superhuman.
Now try the car...If this was the issue your problems should be gone.
As an added measure you can remove the bolt and the rings, sand the area directly under with sand paper, emery board,etc. This will get a better ground than just the thin ring of the nutsert. Replace the bolt with the rings and tighten.
I tired to find a pic of this connection in my files but could not. Maybe someone else has one handy.
It takes less time to check this than it did to type this.
Good luck
Open Hood
Remove the 4 plastic clips that hold in the trunk liner
Lift out the liner ( remove the air inflator first to make it easier to lift)
You will see the battery
Follow the black ground cable attached to the battery to the frame.
This cable will terminate on a frame rail that is easy to see and get to.
There will be two other ring terminals under this connection
Think three rings stacked with a bolt in the center
Tighten this bolt. I think it was an 8mm or 10mm socket I used.
If it turns easy it is likely your problem. Good and snug, not superhuman.
Now try the car...If this was the issue your problems should be gone.
As an added measure you can remove the bolt and the rings, sand the area directly under with sand paper, emery board,etc. This will get a better ground than just the thin ring of the nutsert. Replace the bolt with the rings and tighten.
I tired to find a pic of this connection in my files but could not. Maybe someone else has one handy.
It takes less time to check this than it did to type this.
Good luck
427Aggie
GT Owner
Mark I don't know what color the coolant in our cars is to begin with. Some of the newer coolants are orange depending on how long you are suppost to go between fillups. My guess on yours is a battery connection.
On Kumars the block off plate is something I never would have thought of...thats why Rich and Dennis are the best. You want to make sure that they didn't take out the internal routing piece inside the clamshell though. Thats there to keep water from coming in and I believe the engineers said to keep gusting wind from the side from throwing the maf off and killing the engine.
On Kumars the block off plate is something I never would have thought of...thats why Rich and Dennis are the best. You want to make sure that they didn't take out the internal routing piece inside the clamshell though. Thats there to keep water from coming in and I believe the engineers said to keep gusting wind from the side from throwing the maf off and killing the engine.
I checked the ground cable on mine, no problems there. I also checked for a "block off plate" no such animal on my GT. I will pull the filters next but that is a pain in the tail pipe. I feel pretty sure that a Hefner turbo setup will solve the problem.
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
:rofl :cheers
But THAT will create a new pblm. Massive rear tire wear.
It never ends. Solve ONE pblm and another one always pops up!
Questions...answers:
I did not notice any engine light.
I used the SCT Tuner device and the car did not report any error codes.
The car has been "ruining" well. It recently dyno'd at 621hp and event the day it died 3 times it ran well on the road
The gas tank was at least 3/4 full
When I was in the garage tonight looking the car over for clues I notice that the coolant has a strange substance in it (I added water wetter but I don't think that is what I am seeing). It looked a bit like oil :ack
What boost are you running? It may be possible you have a head gasket problem. Try checking your spark plugs, If anything shows up, follow up with a compression test. If nothing else you've covered the basics.
SFLGT
Well-known member
Kumar. your dealer has me a little worried. The p1000 code they have has nothing to do with the battery and they should know that. That code is normal and will be in every car when codes are run without a good drive cyl. Cobrar1339 is right on with the K&N problems with oil on the mass air. The Ford mass air meter is very sensitive to oil getting on them from oiled style filters. It causes lots of problems and I see it alot on mustangs that people put filters in. It is something to check to see if you have a K&N or another aftermarket type filter. Have you been able to get the problem to happen while at the dealer? If so they need to moniter the pcm pids while cranking the car or have them check whats called mode 6 data in your pcm for anything strange. If it will not do it at the dealer and only happens once in a while when you start it then ask your dealer to install a flight recorder and let you leave with it. It is a small box that plugs into your car and records all of the "pids" or sensors and pcm inputs. It has a cable comming out of the box with a button on the end so when the problem happens you press the buttoon and the box will recored around 30 seconds of data. 15 seconds before you pushed the button and 15 after. Then the dealer can down load the info from it and maybe see what happend. It may be the only way if it is very intermitant. Just some suggestions.
Last edited:
cobrar1339
GT Owner
No need to remove the filters or the box to check.
Just lift the clam and shine a light in there. I fit has a yellowish paper element it is OEM. If it is reddish and has screen around it you have a K&N.
When you shine the light look toward the upper part of the opening, the edge of the filter should be hanging down, you could touch it with your finger.
Just lift the clam and shine a light in there. I fit has a yellowish paper element it is OEM. If it is reddish and has screen around it you have a K&N.
When you shine the light look toward the upper part of the opening, the edge of the filter should be hanging down, you could touch it with your finger.
Kumar received the P1000 code not me.
My battery cable was tight as a whip and the car has stock filters. Given that this has only occurred within the last week, I think I will run a full tank of gas though it before I get really concerned.
My battery cable was tight as a whip and the car has stock filters. Given that this has only occurred within the last week, I think I will run a full tank of gas though it before I get really concerned.
digman1
GT Owner
I would call Dallas Mustang to set up a dyno-tune. Since you already have the tuner, I believe the price is under $200 for the tune itself, and the guy that does the dyno's is very knowledgeable, and did a great job on my GT.
SFLGT
Well-known member
Sorry that should have said Kumar. I agree if it has only done it once or twice in a week don't get crazy yet.
Well there is chance I might have solved my problem. Ground wire was already tight. Took out the blockage from the air vent and went for a drive.
On a 30 minute city drive, the car didnt die once. It did dip down to 400rpm once but Im guessing a little play in the idle is normal.
edit: I still plan to check the filter and get a tuner to play with the idle parameters. Too bad its going to be freezing the next few days.
On a 30 minute city drive, the car didnt die once. It did dip down to 400rpm once but Im guessing a little play in the idle is normal.
edit: I still plan to check the filter and get a tuner to play with the idle parameters. Too bad its going to be freezing the next few days.
Last edited:
Your's is probably the fuel filler pipe. If it happens again, maybe a quick leak test will confirm.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
I hope so however with the idle dropping below the OEM setting is sadly a typical sign that the fuel filler neck needs tended to. The engine management systsem is such that at idle adapations happen immediately and is designed in such a way that drops below baseline idle should never happen; if anything they will hang just above and drop down to the baseline setting.
Now FYI the replacement of the filler neck is not a difficult process and requires no special tools however IMO it requires MUCHO blue tape and a methodical approach. If to be tended to under warranty I suggest that you find someone willing to go the extra distance because I have heard of far to many minor chips caused during the process for which there is no reason for it. However if you elect to purchase the part it is now at a retail cost of nearly $400.00 and I will gladly walk you through the process.
Takes care
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
I have no reason to doubt the dealer; just tossing comments. I never mean to offend
If you fill the gal up and drive her under 50 miles the fuel filler issue should not rear its ugly head and she should return to idle perfectly. If she operates fine in this window period however when the fuel is less then this then I remain suspect.
I can share two things;
1. The filler neck by design is a weak link and even if replaced dose not insure that it is corrected; this has nothing to do with compentency
2. The smoke test does not always pan out because the flapper design at the fill point does not typically fail but rather has moments in time of failure during which it does not seal properly.
Now on a different path; do you have the OEM throttle body or the AccuFab?
Takes care
Shadowman