Preparing for a lift

[Simon]

Any one have a back up battery for opener?

 

[TO AWSUM]

Most openers have a manual disconnect for power outages. Just pull a cord and lift the door up by hand.

 

[Specracer]

I did, until I swapped the circuits to the generator.

Any one have a back up battery for opener?

 

[MTV8]

When I had a garage door converted to high lift, it involved installing much larger springs and brackets with additional bracing behind the drywall to support them.

 

[DC-DD]

Any one have a back up battery for opener?

Yes I have 6 liftmasters with the battery back up units. great setup.

Dominic

 

[zach05855]

Any one have a back up battery for opener?

Sorry, I have a whole house 48Kw Generator, so no need for battery backup.

 

[Simon]

Sorry, I have a whole house 48Kw Generator, so no need for battery backup.

Like a boss!

 

[Tom's Garage]

I took the track and everything out and went with swing out manual carriage doors instead. My ceilings are only 8 1/2 feet tall

 

[Beez]

I took the track and everything out and went with swing out manual carriage doors instead. My ceilings are only 8 1/2 feet tall

Do the doors open completely to the outside? any chance of pics? Could be an idea for me, although I suspect our HOA wouldn't allow it. I've got 9' 3" to work with

 

[Beez]

A very good day for the high-lift door mod in prep for lift!

Went with the LM 8500 side winder after all. (Paint and better outlet locations are in the works during upcoming garage makeover)



I asked the local crew to give me every inch of headroom they could. They said 2 1/2" from ceiling to bottom of raised door was the tightest they had ever accomplished. They angled the track up to 2 " closer to the ceiling at the rear of the track for more win!



Earlier in the thread some of you reminded me of security. So I have the pin from the side-winder on one side, and this added precaution on the other:



Bendpak coming soon

 

[Empty Pockets]

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/bbeezley/Tungsten%20GT/IMG_1625.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

From a security standpoint, you could simply opt for a nut and bolt instead of the padlock given the fact that, once inside the garage, an "evil doer" (GWB) could make short work of the latter anyway. :wink

Besides, you'd never find yourself looking for a key...or forgetting a combination. :lol

 

[AJB]

I always worried that I (or a family member) would try to raise the garage door from the key fob or code box on the outside ... ''WITH THE PADLOCK OR BOLT inadvertently STILL INSTALLED....and tear the whole track system crashing down on top of the roof of the Ford GT. !!!
Any thoughts to this failure mode. ??

andy (ajb)

 

[TO AWSUM]

First suggestion - education. 2nd, all garage door openers have a safety switch that stops the door if the opening resistance is too high. No worries in the door falling from trying to open locked door.

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[Empty Pockets]

I always worried that I (or a family member) would try to raise the garage door from the key fob or code box on the outside ... ''WITH THE PADLOCK OR BOLT inadvertently STILL INSTALLED....and tear the whole track system crashing down on top of the roof of the Ford GT. !!!
Any thoughts to this failure mode. ??

andy (ajb)

Simply shutting off the power to the door lift whenever one wanted to prevent something like that happening would do the trick there.

Besides, one would think the motor would automatically reverse itself once it met resistance, wouldn't it??? :shrug

 

[Beez]

I did discuss the risk of pushing the open button while the padlock is on. Installer said it should reverse itself, but since the lock is on the opposite track from the opener, that the sideways torque before hoped-for reversal could be a bad thing. My plan is to leave the opener unplugged and the padlock on during stretches of hobby-car inactivity and vacations etc.

 

[AJB]

good plan. Seeing a derailed garage door fall onto the garage floor is not a pretty sight.
Can only imaging what it would do to the FGT.

andy (ajb)

 

[gtinmyblood]

First suggestion - education. 2nd, all garage door openers have a safety switch that stops the door if the opening resistance is too high. No worries in the door falling from trying to open locked door.

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I had each LiftMaster Sidewinder plugged into a socket with a seperate switch on each. That way I could cut power to either whenever I wanted. Going away? slide the lock and turn off the power.

 

[MTV8]

I always worried that I (or a family member) would try to raise the garage door from the key fob or code box on the outside ... ''WITH THE PADLOCK OR BOLT inadvertently STILL INSTALLED....and tear the whole track system crashing down on top of the roof of the Ford GT. !!!
Any thoughts to this failure mode. ??

andy (ajb)

The motor will reverse, but may damage one of the panels if metal. It will look like a ripple through the surface of the panel. May not cause an issue with a wood door.

 

[Cobraguy]

I have separate switches for my lifts and as added insurance I use a wide mouth vice-grip upstream but tight against the bottom panel roller in the valley of the track....easy on;easy off.

 

[TO AWSUM]

The motor will reverse, but may damage one of the panels if metal. It will look like a ripple through the surface of the panel. May not cause an issue with a wood door.

If this happened to you, that means you have the reverse tension set way too high. You need to readjust it to a lighter setting.

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