Ok guys - show me your wheels!

[STUNTS]

For a set of 20" all around riding on the PS2's with a 335/30/20 rear...they want 10k shipped. Now, Michelin just came out with a 345/30/20, which would get me to the exact same rolling height as stock, but they don't have matching front tires...so I'd have to go with the 335's and lower a bit. Not sure yet what I want to do, or if I want to go with brushed aluminum, polished, or just satin black. I wish I could actually see the wheels on a photochop in black, or even these in black on a white/blue GT, just to see what white/blue with black wheels looks like. Also looking at an offset which would get the fattest part of the tires about 1/8" past the fenders. I want an aggressive stance.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...A-Auto-Show-*pics-inside*&highlight=auto+show

FBA,

I'm not sure how long you want to wait but my OEM upgraded BBS (extra set) are being powder coated in Flat black as we speak. Pick up next week and going on my Wht blue striped car.... I know it's going to look AWESOME, FANTASTIC, SUPER DUBER LUGER LICIOUS but will post pics when I have them for you to see.....
It will be cool, get it done....

Maybe a bit pricey???? Not sure.....

 

[2112]

Can't you get any of these custom wheels in any backspacing you want?

 

[SteveA]

Can't you get any of these custom wheels in any backspacing you want?

The wheels on my can be ordered anyway you want.

 

[MTV8]

Can't you get any of these custom wheels in any backspacing you want?

You can, but most go for the standard fit. Each manufacturer has proprietary specifications, and some are much more aggressive than others.

 

[FBA]

FBA,

I'm not sure how long you want to wait but my OEM upgraded BBS (extra set) are being powder coated in Flat black as we speak. Pick up next week and going on my Wht blue striped car.... I know it's going to look AWESOME, FANTASTIC, SUPER DUBER LUGER LICIOUS but will post pics when I have them for you to see.....
It will be cool, get it done....

Maybe a bit pricey???? Not sure.....

I'm waiting for your pics!! No real rush...

Not sure why you say "pricey"...powder coating what you have will be 8-9k less than buying new shoes and rubber, no?

 

[nota4re]

Now, Michelin just came out with a 345/30/20, which would get me to the exact same rolling height as stock, but they don't have matching front tires...so I'd have to go with the 335's and lower a bit.

A 345/30-20 tire will be a little more than 3/4" SMALLER than OEM in overall diameter, and a 335/30-20 is almost exactly 1" smaller than OEM. Either of these tires is going to give you a larger gap between the tire and wheel and from an aesthetics perspectives this gap will be accentuated by the large rim size. (Gotta LOVE those ADV.1's, though!) You could always lower the car to mitigate the gap but with the combination of the smaller rolling height AND the lowering, your car maight be too low for practical use.

The challenge is the the rear tire is so damn tall on the GT (a needed design element to fit those big hips). As much as you want 20", you might consider 19" and running the Bridgestone Scuderia 345/30-19 which is a more reasonable .4" smaller than OEM in overall diameter.

 

[FBA]

I did some research now. So the Michelin rears and front will work, with almost no difference in rolling height.

Michelin 345/30/20 Pilot Super Sport - 28.17" rolling height vs. stock at 28.9"
Michelin 255/35/20 Pilot Super Sport - 26.19" rolling height vs. stock at 26.1"

I took these numbers off the GY site for actual height, and off the Michelin site by converting revs per mile to rolling height. I'd have to lower the rear a tad to get the same gap as stock...and I guess I'd just do the same in the front to maintain the same geometry. Maybe a 1/2" drop all around to get a better look. This should work fine - albeit the ride will be much harsher I'm sure.

 

[nota4re]

FBA - Trying to help you here...

Yes, you can make the rear's work. I wouldn't characterize a 3/4" height difference to be "almost no difference". However, 3/4" is only 3/8" on radius and will be the increase in gap in the wheel well. Per your plan to lower 1/2", this would put you at a desireable, 1/8" less than stock. The only thing that I would mention is that we typically will lower the GT's 1" all around to improve handling and to minimize the wheel well gap. The net is that even with 1/2" of lowering, you will still have a OEM-like large gap.

Your calulations for the front height, however, are somehow off. The tire you propose is, in fact, 3/4" taller than OEM. Once again, non-trivial, but probably workable. The challenge with the set-up that you have proposed is that you have a rear tire which is 3/4" shorter than OEM and a front tire that is 3/4" taller. Either one of these is workable, but the combination is not really ideal. (Also, if you decide to go with this combination, check on the availability of that front tire. Although listed by Michelin on their web, it may not be readily available.)

 

[nota4re]

200RWHP Ninja? Whew! You must have long arms and a strong grip! That thing must be quite a ride!

 

[FBA]

It's insane - even with the 6" stretch and me @ 6'2" at 230...she still pulls up hard and fast in most gears. Quarter's in mid 8's...yes, it pulls like a banshee!
I walk supercars in 2nd with me in 6th...LOL

 

[SteveA]

A 345/30-20 tire will be a little more than 3/4" SMALLER than OEM in overall diameter, and a 335/30-20 is almost exactly 1" smaller than OEM. Either of these tires is going to give you a larger gap between the tire and wheel and from an aesthetics perspectives this gap will be accentuated by the large rim size. (Gotta LOVE those ADV.1's, though!) You could always lower the car to mitigate the gap but with the combination of the smaller rolling height AND the lowering, your car maight be too low for practical use.

The challenge is the the rear tire is so damn tall on the GT (a needed design element to fit those big hips). As much as you want 20", you might consider 19" and running the Bridgestone Scuderia 345/30-19 which is a more reasonable .4" smaller than OEM in overall diameter.

Kendal, this is the tire size I run on my car 335 30 20 and (as you know) your correct on the numbers. I lowered my car 1 1/4 in front and 3/4's in the rear then did a recalibration on the speedo/ odom so I don't rack up miles any faster than necessary. If a 335 or 345 35 20 were available that would have been my first choice. I am very careful with bumps and steep driveways however have never scraped the diffuser and the splitter is still in very good condition. The only clearance issue was the Stillen mud flaps would scrape on tall speed bumps until I trimmed then up about a half inch+.

 

[2112]

I lowered my car 1 1/4 in front and 3/4's in the rear.

This is the direction I am going as well. IMHO the factory ride height is to high in the nose, like most cars. The pictures you posted are a great example of how good this looks as well as decreasing front end lift a little bit.

 

[dtomaso1]

Here's one for the trivia experts

Here is a shot of a "strut" wheel, on a pilot sport 335/30/zr20. Car was an 05, Black no stripe, for sale in Vegas
in Sept 09. Many other strut upgrades...front grill, speaker covers, side vents, rear grills, etc...anyone know what happened to this car?

 

[FBA]

FBA - Trying to help you here...

Yes, you can make the rear's work. I wouldn't characterize a 3/4" height difference to be "almost no difference". However, 3/4" is only 3/8" on radius and will be the increase in gap in the wheel well. Per your plan to lower 1/2", this would put you at a desireable, 1/8" less than stock. The only thing that I would mention is that we typically will lower the GT's 1" all around to improve handling and to minimize the wheel well gap. The net is that even with 1/2" of lowering, you will still have a OEM-like large gap.

Your calulations for the front height, however, are somehow off. The tire you propose is, in fact, 3/4" taller than OEM. Once again, non-trivial, but probably workable. The challenge with the set-up that you have proposed is that you have a rear tire which is 3/4" shorter than OEM and a front tire that is 3/4" taller. Either one of these is workable, but the combination is not really ideal. (Also, if you decide to go with this combination, check on the availability of that front tire. Although listed by Michelin on their web, it may not be readily available.)

And, I appreciate your help!

So, here's how I arrived at my numbers --

I went to the Michelin site and checked the tire rotations per mile, then converted the result to inches (rolling diameter) and divide by PI to get my radius. At 770 Rotations/mile, the overall diameter comes to exactly 26.19238". That's providing that what they list as rotations/mile is precise - and this was for the 255/35/20. Now, when I go the GY site, they list the overall diameter as 26.3" for the OE 235/45/18 GY Eagle F1 tire. So I see the net difference at .10762", which is marginal, IMO. If I'm wrong in my thinking...let me know please. To keep the overall suspension geometry, I think I'd have to actually raise the rear .375. but if I lower the rear instead, by an inch, I lower the front by .625, right? That would eliminate some gap and still have a decent ride, I'm guessing. What I'll do, is run the car with the wheels and not touch the suspension for now - just to see how much harsher the ride is with so much less sidewall. Then, if I can live with it, I'll go ahead and lower a bit. Fact is, when I had this issue with my Z06...I did nothing, but noticed with the wider wheels/tires, it has less of a gap (visually), only because the tires extend further past the fenders over stock. That's what will happen with the GT I'm guessing. I really hate lowering cars - been there and done that. If I can live with the visuals, I'll just lower enough to maintain the geometry. Does that make sense, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I should also mention that this car will never see a track, except maybe for a skidpad for a day or so, just to get better acquainted with it's handling...and that it will only see around 500 miles each year...I have plenty of other toys to drive and GT driving will be very limited for me. It will be my garage queen - LOL

 

[BlackICE]

Why not the Super Sports in 315/35ZR20, almost perfect in diameter.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ewall=Blackwall&partnum=135YR0PSSXL&tab=Specs

 

[FBA]

Sorry, you're right, however, they won't give me the aggressive width I'm looking for --

 

[BlackICE]

Why not the Super Sports in 315/35ZR20, almost perfect in diameter.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ewall=Blackwall&partnum=135YR0PSSXL&tab=Specs

No good, way to short...I'm going to a 345/35/20, a larger diameter - and that's still .75 shorter than OEM...Tire Rack is listing the wrong spec for overall height. If you do the math from the spec on the Michlelin site, the 315 tire is way less in diameter.

The 315/35ZR20 are 28.7" diameter very close, not too short, compared the stock GY. I don't see and 345/35/20 listed.

 

[FBA]

Ya, I posted a correction above while you were posting here...and you're right, it's a 345/30/20, which was what I originally posted a page or so back. Man I must be sleeping at the switch today...LOL

 

[2112]

Overall height= W/25.4 x R x 2 + D

W= Section width in mm
R+ sidewall ratio percentage
D= wheel diatmeter

eg For a 345/35R20

345/25.4 x .35 x 2 + 20 = 29.5" overall diameter.

 

[RALPHIE]

And, I appreciate your help!

So, here's how I arrived at my numbers --

I went to the Michelin site and checked the tire rotations per mile, then converted the result to inches (rolling diameter) and....

If you just go to TireRack,

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...43YR0PSS&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

and click on the specs tab, you'll find all the relevant information for the 345/30ZR20. You can get the specs for virtually any tire this way, and set up a table to compare them.