Oil Pump Belt

[hydouken]

I have searched and read numerous threads about this. I thought this would be a pretty straight forward belt swap, but after reading around here I am a little worried.
Does anyone have a step by step "how to" on swapping out the belt?
The main concern I have from reading on the forum is the proper tension to set on the belt.
Also any tips/tricks anyone has after doing the belt swap would be great too!
OF COURSE pictures are more than welcome :thumbsup

ps: Off topic. "Back in the day...2006" www.gtsaver.com was selling a magnetic transaxle drain plug for the GT. What happened to that? Where can you get on now? Another vendor selling this?

Thank you for the helpful information in advance. I plan on doing most of the work on the GT myself. I just dont trust anyone in South Carolina to do the work.
Like the old saying goes "if you want it done right....."

 

[Sinovac]

The oil pump belt change is very straightforward. Belt tension is via an eccentric tensioner and requires no adjustment once the tensioner is properly aligned with the index marks. The belt is a unidirectional cog design and easily installed. Pages 303-05-10 through 11 in the service manual cover the procedure. If you don't have a manual, you should get one. I can send you the relevant pages in a pinch.

 

[RALPHIE]

While I believe that the manual calls to remove the access cover from the passenger compartment to perform the change, Rich and Denis (GT Guy) are able to perform the change from underneath the car (along with the supercharger and accessory belts).

If you're going to "do it by the book," I recommend getting the access cover nterface gasket from Jay (analogdesigner) instead of resealing it with the ugly putty.

 

[Sinovac]

While I believe that the manual calls to remove the access cover from the passenger compartment to perform the change, Rich and Denis (GT Guy) are able to perform the change from underneath the car (along with the supercharger and accessory belts).

I don't recall if the manual calls for the removal of the access cover, but Ralphie is right. You can get to it from underneath the car.

 

[hydouken]

The oil pump belt change is very straightforward. Belt tension is via an eccentric tensioner and requires no adjustment once the tensioner is properly aligned with the index marks. The belt is a unidirectional cog design and easily installed. Pages 303-05-10 through 11 in the service manual cover the procedure. If you don't have a manual, you should get one. I can send you the relevant pages in a pinch.

Here you say "requires no adjustment" but what confuses me is this post here #5 & 8. The statement "the tension adjustment is critical".
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...-oil-pump-belt-be-changed&highlight=pump+belt
Also in the same thread post#9. What is this "small scribe mark and the alignment mark"? Which of course Sinovac has stated is important as well.
http://1fordgt.com/2011/Ford_gt/February/3BeltChange/0002.jpg
here is a picutre when searching trying to find out what this alignment mark is and how to adjust it?

 

[hydouken]

While I believe that the manual calls to remove the access cover from the passenger compartment to perform the change, Rich and Denis (GT Guy) are able to perform the change from underneath the car (along with the supercharger and accessory belts).

If you're going to "do it by the book," I recommend getting the access cover nterface gasket from Jay (analogdesigner) instead of resealing it with the ugly putty.

Didnt Jay also sell the transaxle magnetic drain plug as well?

 

[fjpikul]

Yes, AnalogDesigner did sell both products. His magnetic drain plugs were much stronger than those that are stock. He hasn't commented on what's for sale in a long time, but he does still lurk here. I believe Kendall (i.e. CoolTech) has some options as well. My questioin to you is, if you don't understand the directions, why take a chance doing it yourself? You could be in a world of hurt by f**king up oil flow in this engine. This ain't no changing out the shifter and staightening it out later after it's f***ked up.

 

[Sinovac]

. . . after it's f***ked up.

Frank, please count your asterisks in the future.

Hydouken, the posts you reference state that the tensioner must be aligned with the index marks, nothing more. If you align the eccentric tensioner with the index marks you are good to go. Frank is right though, if you have any doubt about doing this, have a competent mechanic do it. An improperly installed oil pump belt is likely to result in low back pain immediately followed by severe rectal discomfort.

 

[RALPHIE]

Prior to having all my belts replaced by Rich & Denis (GT Guy), I sought to purchase one of Jay's (analogdesigner) access panel interface gaskets. Not being able to contact Jay at the time, I sought out Bill Knoblock (Shadowman), who happened to have a few of Jay's gaskets in stock. I purchased one, then drove to Michigan (via Rally V at Raliegh/VIR) to have the belts replaced. I found out that they didn't need to use the access panel, so I keep Jay's gasket under the driver's seat for possible use if I ever run into trouble while traveling, which might require removal of the access panel.

I can't say enough praise about "GT Guy", "Shadowman", and "analogdesigner".

 

[MNJason]

Whats the timeline on replacing this? How about the other belts? I have an 05 with 8k miles and the GT guys will be here next month. Is this something I should add to the list?

 

[GT Venum]

I have a 05 as well and will have the GT Guys replace mine and the SC belt when they are here in Milwaukee next month. In my mind it is not the amount of miles it is more the time that the belts have been on the car. Seems like cheap insurance to me since they will be here.

 

[jcthorne]

Owners manual says 30k miles for the oil drive belt. And that is likely conservative. There are instructions about cars that sit for long periods unused though.

 

[Sinovac]

Have them replace since they will be working on your car anyway and it is fairly inexpensive. Honestly, I think the Ford recommended replacement interval is extremely conservative.

 

[fjpikul]

Sinovac, thank you for the editorial correction. I was typing faster than my fingers can work. I think a lot of newer guys here don't realize, unless youo really used to turning a wrench, this is not the car to learn on. I've seen the GTGuys replace a clutch in 2 1/2 hours. I couldn't do it in a week. The amount of damage you can do with one little slip is pretty severe. I suggest you guys read ByeEnzo's experience with the oil drive gears, and he didn't do it himself.

 

[hydouken]

Sinovac, thank you for the editorial correction. I was typing faster than my fingers can work. I think a lot of newer guys here don't realize, unless youo really used to turning a wrench, this is not the car to learn on. I've seen the GTGuys replace a clutch in 2 1/2 hours. I couldn't do it in a week. The amount of damage you can do with one little slip is pretty severe. I suggest you guys read ByeEnzo's experience with the oil drive gears, and he didn't do it himself.

You are correct about "this is not the car to learn on". I have been working on rotary engines mostly, but this is slightly different . But this is my first car ever to have a dry sump system along with an oil pump belt. And once again I stress that I will be doing most of the work on this car, because the local "mechanics" here I dont trust or have not shown very much promise at all. And working on my car is part of the whole experience IMHO.
Either way this is a very easy process now that Sinovac gave me a reference in the manual to look at.

The consensus here is changing the oil pump belt every 30,000 miles or if the car sits for an extended period of time, then you would change it once every 3 years. Whichever comes first.
The oil pump belt can be changed from underneath the car or through the access panel inside the cabin.
Here is the part that confused me and I will explain for other newbies:
The oil belt tensioner is not a spring loaded one like you would normally see on a mustang. This is a static tensioner.
- You set the tension by loosening the nut on the tensioner pulley then turning either clockwise or counter-clockwise on the "washer" underneath it. This will apply or release tension on the belt.
- Once your new belt is on you will turn the "washer" again to apply tension back onto the belt. To make sure you are applying the proper amount of tension on the new belt there are two marks you have to line up.
- There is a black "line" on a plastic tab closest to the block. As you move the washer to apply tension you will see a metal "pac-man" like mouth moving. Make sure that "pac-man's" mouth is centered on the black "line" on the plastic tab.....so he can eat it, nom nom.
- After that you can tighten the tensioner pulley nut and thats it.

Side note, make sure you are looking at the marks straight on. If you are using a mirror then clip it somewhere so that it stays put throughout the process. I will be using a borescope camera.
So for the newbies out there please take your time when working on this car and make sure you research and read before you start.
And most importantly enjoy the fact that you have the opportunity to own AND drive this car!
Sorry if it sound complicated but once you look at the picture I referenced in my earlier post you will understand exactly how easy this process really is.

 

[Howard]

As I recall when attempting to check my oil pump belt sprockets, getting at the torx bolts that retain the belt cover was difficult. In fact, I never successfully removed the cover. I approached the cover from underneath, not through the interior access panel.

Howard

 

[analogdesigner]

Guys, thanks for the kind words about my products. I do a have a few access panel gaskets and magnetic oil drain plugs left over. Shadowman should have gaskets and shifter balls, Bill correct me if I'm wrong.

Jay Philippbar
CNC Setup, Inc.
2006 Via Solona
San Clemente, CA 92673
(949) 412-8889, lv. msg if no answer!
jayphil@cox.net
analogdesign@cox.net
http://www.fastanalog.com/
https://www.facebook.com/jay.philippbar

 

[Vincent998]

You have a PM

 

[nota4re]

As I recall when attempting to check my oil pump belt sprockets, getting at the torx bolts that retain the belt cover was difficult. In fact, I never successfully removed the cover. I approached the cover from underneath, not through the interior access panel.

We usually tackle these screws using a short T27 Torx bit that is ~ 3/4" long. This is the kind of bit that is similar to a repaceable Phillips screw bit in a cordless drill accessory kit. This small Torx bit is short enough to get into the screw heads and then we use a 1/4" open-end wrench to turn it. Slow going, but it gets the job done. We do all inspections and belt replacements from underneath the car and not through the access plate. Another tip that may be handy is that if you completely remove the tensioner assembly, getting the old belt off and the new one on is a LOT easier. With the tensioner in place it is not difficult to damage the belt when trying to install it and this is one belt that you for sure want to be careful with. One last tid-bit, before loosening and/or removing the tensioner, validate that you can see and undersatnd the alignment marks. This will make it easier when you go to set them upon re-assembly.

 

[Howard]

Thanks! I'll try it again next oil change.

Howard