oil change time
- Thread starter guywwagner
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
I'm of the mind..."if it aint' fixed don't broke it school" With syntheitc oil and closer engine tolerances that modern cars have, 5000 miles easy before oil changes on this car. I don't want anyone, messing with my GT unless it's absolutly necessary, let alone taking apart the entire belly pan, etc., etc.
LEMANSZ, ROCMAN, and any other SoCal owners, please consider that you have an open invitation to stop by my home for an oil change. Last year, I completed the construction of a small shop attached to the home - perhaps the centerpiece being a BendPak 12k lb 4-post lift. The ramps are extremely low and I have never had to use anything more that a 2x12 place in front of a ramp to get an exotic up. The 4-post is ideal for the GT oil change (great planning, huh?) because you don't have to mess with jack points, etc.
I have the tools and the skills and you can choose to help or not, that's fine. It's a weird offer, I know, but if you want to have the car in a safe environment and be with it during minor surgery, you're more than welcome. I figure it's a way to get to know a few local owners.
If you have any tire balancing issues, we can take care of those too as I just installed a state of the art balancer.....
Here's a pic of the lift with an inferior vehicle...
I have the tools and the skills and you can choose to help or not, that's fine. It's a weird offer, I know, but if you want to have the car in a safe environment and be with it during minor surgery, you're more than welcome. I figure it's a way to get to know a few local owners.
If you have any tire balancing issues, we can take care of those too as I just installed a state of the art balancer.....
Here's a pic of the lift with an inferior vehicle...
AMER SPD
GT Owner
nota4re said:LEMANSZ, ROCMAN, and any other SoCal owners, please consider that you have an open invitation to stop by my home for an oil change. Last year, I completed the construction of a small shop attached to the home - perhaps the centerpiece being a BendPak 12k lb 4-post lift. The ramps are extremely low and I have never had to use anything more that a 2x12 place in front of a ramp to get an exotic up. The 4-post is ideal for the GT oil change (great planning, huh?) because you don't have to mess with jack points, etc.
I have the tools and the skills and you can choose to help or not, that's fine. It's a weird offer, I know, but if you want to have the car in a safe environment and be with it during minor surgery, you're more than welcome. I figure it's a way to get to know a few local owners.
If you have any tire balancing issues, we can take care of those too as I just installed a state of the art balancer.....
Here's a pic of the lift with an inferior vehicle...
What a generous offer and great looking shop. What about us Northern Cal Owners? We might just want to see your new shop!
Charles
glord
GT Owner
Does anyone know if the oil change procedure requires and R&R of the clutch mechanism? I started experiencing a "mushy" feeling trying to shift into first gear after taking the car to the dealer for an oil change?
Thank you
Thank you
BlackICE
GT Owner
I am thinking of getting a HD-9, I don't know if the HD-12 will fix in my garage. I have a question about using the rolling jacks. Is one of them enough to lift all 4 wheels of the GT off of the ramps, or do I need to buy 2 rolling jacks. I know that the GT has 4 preferred jacking locations. If I put the rolling jack to lift one side, where do I put the jack stands so that I can roll the jack to the other side? With 2 jacks I would think that putting one in the front and the other at the back and push a button would do the trick. I am assuming that the rolling jacks have locks on them so that it is safe to go under the cars with only the jacks supporting it.
BlackICE
BlackICE
nota4re said:
BlackICE,
As for space, you should look at the HD12SS. The "SS" is for Space Saver. It is shorther than most of the other 4-posts (from BendPak), but you can still put a crew-cab F-250 on it! The HD12 is also the minimum for adding a rolling bridge jack. The HD9's aren't built for this (at least they weren't when I bought mine).
The rolling jack bridge is rated at 6000 lbs, so it will lift pretty much anything you want. It is also OK to lift just one side if that's all you want to do. It does have a notched saftey mechanism so no need to worry about that. The jack bridge rolls very easily on a special channel welded onto the ramps. It has metal wheels with bearings so it kind of "glides". You can easily shove it from one end to the other. The metal wheels have a little valve-spring-like spring on them allowing it to roll. These springs just barel suspend the weight of the bridge. As soon as you start jacking anything, the jack bridge squats down and is supported by the channel. No way it can roll once it is lifting more than 20-30 lbs. A very simple and clever design.
I don't know about getting two. I have one and at the other end I have a simple (much less expensive) metal jack bridge. I have an air-actuated 20-ton bottle jack that goes on that.
Most of the time, I will lift only one end of the car at a time to do suspension/brake work. If I need to lift both ends, you can place jack stands on the front side, for example, and then roll the bridge down and lift the rear. Alternatively, you can lift the rear with the bottle jack.
I debated for days and weekd between a two-post and a 4-post lift. I am sooooo happy with my decision on the 4-post with the jack bridge. You have the best of both worlds.... and one of the coolest "features" is that you can simply drive up on it, and then lift it. No hands & knees BS to line up the jack points, etc. You do need to do this when using the jack bridge, but I place the jack bridge where I want it when the car is 6' in the air. No hands and knees stuff for me!
Here's a pic of an SL on my lift and we are using the jack stands in the front and the jack bridge is holding up the rear.
Here's a great place to buy your BendPak from. GES
Ask for Christi and tell her Kendall sent you. They are great to deal with.
As for space, you should look at the HD12SS. The "SS" is for Space Saver. It is shorther than most of the other 4-posts (from BendPak), but you can still put a crew-cab F-250 on it! The HD12 is also the minimum for adding a rolling bridge jack. The HD9's aren't built for this (at least they weren't when I bought mine).
The rolling jack bridge is rated at 6000 lbs, so it will lift pretty much anything you want. It is also OK to lift just one side if that's all you want to do. It does have a notched saftey mechanism so no need to worry about that. The jack bridge rolls very easily on a special channel welded onto the ramps. It has metal wheels with bearings so it kind of "glides". You can easily shove it from one end to the other. The metal wheels have a little valve-spring-like spring on them allowing it to roll. These springs just barel suspend the weight of the bridge. As soon as you start jacking anything, the jack bridge squats down and is supported by the channel. No way it can roll once it is lifting more than 20-30 lbs. A very simple and clever design.
I don't know about getting two. I have one and at the other end I have a simple (much less expensive) metal jack bridge. I have an air-actuated 20-ton bottle jack that goes on that.
Most of the time, I will lift only one end of the car at a time to do suspension/brake work. If I need to lift both ends, you can place jack stands on the front side, for example, and then roll the bridge down and lift the rear. Alternatively, you can lift the rear with the bottle jack.
I debated for days and weekd between a two-post and a 4-post lift. I am sooooo happy with my decision on the 4-post with the jack bridge. You have the best of both worlds.... and one of the coolest "features" is that you can simply drive up on it, and then lift it. No hands & knees BS to line up the jack points, etc. You do need to do this when using the jack bridge, but I place the jack bridge where I want it when the car is 6' in the air. No hands and knees stuff for me!
Here's a pic of an SL on my lift and we are using the jack stands in the front and the jack bridge is holding up the rear.
Here's a great place to buy your BendPak from. GES
Ask for Christi and tell her Kendall sent you. They are great to deal with.
rsilverman
GT Owner
novice oil change
While examining the multiple steps for an oil change, would you more experienced guys not recommend this for the mechanically challenged? I enjoy changing the oil on my cars, but this seems rough.
While examining the multiple steps for an oil change, would you more experienced guys not recommend this for the mechanically challenged? I enjoy changing the oil on my cars, but this seems rough.
Silverbullitt
GT Owner
92NSX said:
Any word and pricing on the kit yet? I'm guessing the kit would consist of a case (12qt) Motocraft 5W-50 Synthetic and the filter (FL-2024) or 10 qts of oil so the filter could be inserted in the case for shipping.
How much is the filter alone?
I was also thinking about the suction method. If the dry sump pump is not a positive displacement pump you might be able to apply suction to the return line going into the external tank. If this works you could use the ramps mentioned earlier to tilt the car forward to make sure the pump pulls all of the oil out of the pan.
Last edited:
Nobody has come up with a predetermined amount of parts for the 'kit' to consist of for me yet. I'll be happy to make it whatever is best for you guys.
I have already filled order for many members requesting 2 filters and 12 qts oil.
The oil is $7.50 qt
the filter is $25 ea
shipping is no problem either.
sent some out today to the midwest and it was ~$16.
I have already filled order for many members requesting 2 filters and 12 qts oil.
The oil is $7.50 qt
the filter is $25 ea
shipping is no problem either.
sent some out today to the midwest and it was ~$16.
HOOKED ON GT
GT Owner
FYI....
I was in the Accufab shop (Feb 2015) and they now have a custom oil filter for the GT.
They didn't like the stock item and how it was performing/fitting/removing.
Its a super fine mesh, very nice indeed, but i'm miffed I didn't take a pick when I was in the shop to show you (I had to get some half shaft bolts when there)
Stuart
I was in the Accufab shop (Feb 2015) and they now have a custom oil filter for the GT.
They didn't like the stock item and how it was performing/fitting/removing.
Its a super fine mesh, very nice indeed, but i'm miffed I didn't take a pick when I was in the shop to show you (I had to get some half shaft bolts when there)
Stuart
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
I have never experienced any performing/fitting/removing problems with either the OE Ford FL-2024 or Mann HU 925/4X filters in my numerous oil changes.
Stuart could you further amplify what they specifically did not like about the OE filter necessitating their own filter design. Or your personal experience with filters you have used.
Thanks. Oh, and how much does Accufab charge for their custom filter?
Stuart could you further amplify what they specifically did not like about the OE filter necessitating their own filter design. Or your personal experience with filters you have used.
Thanks. Oh, and how much does Accufab charge for their custom filter?
BlackICE
GT Owner
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
OUCH!!!!!
Can someone venture a guess as to why the Accufab filter is 1871% more expensive than the Mann filter and what value added to the engine oil filtration this expensive filter adds???
Can someone venture a guess as to why the Accufab filter is 1871% more expensive than the Mann filter and what value added to the engine oil filtration this expensive filter adds???
nautoncall
GT Owner
- Apr 6, 2014
- 1,093
I'm going to try my own oil change for the first time. I was searching and thankfully came across this one. I do recall someone making some adapter to make this process quicker and less messy. I cannot find that. If someone would help please advise thanks.
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