oil change in Chicago?

[nj1001]

Hi All -
I want to bring the car in for minor maintenance (oil change) someplace in/around Chicago. I've asked 3 diff Ford dealers and they've all said they can't do it. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know GT Guys do fantastic work, but not keen to ship it to MI for an oil change.

Also, would be nice to connect with local owners - if you have a GT and live in/near Chicago, please reach out.

Thanks,
NJ

 

[Johntpr]

Real easy to do yourself.

Cut and pasted:
This may help.

Ford GT Oil Change Procedure

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to section 100-02. Open the engine cover.
2. Remove the oil filter cap (6A832) from the oil filter adapter. The used oil in the oil filter housing will automatically drain into the engine when the cap is loosened. The sealing o-ring will remain with the cap.
3. Remove the oil filter element from the housing and discard the element.
4. Install a new oil filter element and replace the cap. Ensure that the sealing o-ring is in place. Tighten the oil filter cap to 25Nm (18 lb-ft).
5. Raise the vehicle.
6. Remove the 21 bolts retaining the rear engine under-body panel (63106B08) and remove the panel. (Illustration A0094313)
7. Remove the 19 bolts retaining the front engine under-body panel (115A74) and remove the panel. (Illustration A0094314)
8. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil reservoir and drain the oil reservoir. (Illustration A0089407)
9. Remove the two engine oil sump / oil pan drain plugs and drain any residual oil from the engine. (Illustration A0000058, with modification to point arrows to the drain plugs).
10. Reinstall the engine oil pan / oil sump drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
11. Reinstall the oil reservoir drain plug and tighten to 25Nm (18 lb-ft). (Illustration A0089407)
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Refill the oil reservoir with 9.5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic oil (XO 5W-50 QGT) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-A..
14. Start the engine check for oil leaks.
15. Raise the vehicle.
16. Reinstall the front engine under-body panel and the 19 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (Illustration A0094314)
17. Reinstall the rear engine under-body panel and the 21 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (Illustration A0089407)
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Check the oil sump level after running the engine. The level must be checked with 1 minute of shutting off the engine.
20. If the oil level is between the MIN-MAX marks on the dipstick, the oil level acceptable.
21. If the oil level in the sump is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the sump level to within the MIN-MAX range. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the dipstick.

Start up procedures:
1. Turn the key to the on position.
2. Hold the accelerator pedal on the floor.
3. Push the start button.
4. Let it crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash or for 20 seconds.
Upon seeing pressure, let up on the start button, BEFORE you let up on the pedal.
5. Release the pedal and then start normal

 

[twobjshelbys]

It sounds daunting - 21 steps - but it isn't bad at all. I did it on jack stands. Be careful in putting the belly pans back on to get the center screws between the two pans (and their overlap) lined up (set some on the fartherst front of the front pan and the farthest rear of the rear pan but don't tighten any up until the center/front pans line up in the middle section). I had a false start here.

Replacing the filter element was also something. I don't like to force things but in this case inserting it did take some extra force. I also had maybe 1/2 pint of oil in the filter housing that I sopped up with some paper towels. Most probably would have left such a minuscule amount behind... Use lots of rags or paper towels around the filter area to keep the filter from dripping on top surfaces.

The first time it will take you a couple of hours, less after you're comfortable with the sequence.

I purchased my oil from Rock Auto. Shipped it was cheaper than the local Ford dealer.

PS. Up until the last time the dealer charged about $125 for the oil change. The last time (when I did it myself) he wanted 525.

 

[Howard]

I do mine on jack stands, too. I use a small floor jack to support the far end of each belly pan, in turn, while I remove the last screws from the other end. Yes, "snap" the filter into the cap. If you don't get the snap, the filter isn't seated. I haven't figured a way to avoid a bit of a mess removing the filter. I replaced the reservoir drain plug with a Fumoto Valve. It's now a 1/4 turn lever and no mess. I also replaced one of the two crankcase drain plugs with a Fumoto. Doing the job yourself insures a thorough process and the opportunity to clean the belly pans. It takes me more than two hours but no one works slower.

 

[Mpinelli24]

I had mine serviced at Fox Ford and Lincoln on Elston in Bucktown, no issues. They were excited to have it.

 

[BIGFOOT]

Not terribly complicated once you have done it once. Like the first time you run a 1/2 marathon.

 

[Tomcat]

Anyone "close" to Greensboro, NC that has done this DIY? MADinNC...I'm due and another local 2006 GT is due too (not on the forum)

 

[DanQ]

This is probably too late, and too far from Chicago, but Victor Ford in Wauconda has a few local GTs they work on.

 

[GTinTN]

I do not live near Chicago, but did have my first oil change since purchase a little over a year ago. I went to the nearest Ford dealership and spoke to the Service Manager and asked if they had a trained/certified GT technician. I was told they have experience and had done work for another GT owner and told me the color. I knew the GT owner had moved from this area well over a year ago and had a Ford GT40 replica which is quite a bit different. I just did not get a good vibe so I asked around other members of the local car club. and found a place that did work on all kinds of high-end cars (Porsches, Lambos, Ferraris, etc.) and met with the owner and had a great connection.
They did the oil change in a reasonable time and at a very reasonable price $290. Note: I printed the instructions johntpr was kind enough to provide in this thread and gave it to them! They also recommended changing the brake fluid as their test showed 3% water in the fluid. I was not certain when the last change was done so had them flush and replace for another $231.
My recommendation is to find someone local that is used to working on high-end cars and that you trust. Good luck!

 

[fjpikul]

You should make sure they changed and bled the clutch At the same time.

 

[nj1001]

sorry for the delayed response. thank you all for the replies.
i came back to the site to see what they're going for now and saw i missed a lot of responses!

 

[DakotaGT]

Road-trip it out to South Dakota, and I'll change it for ya on my lift. You provide oil and filter, and I'll provide the rest. From here (Sioux Falls) you can take your GT out to the Black Hills, see Mt. Rushmore, etc etc. Just a thought. Life is short.