Machine Screw Group Buy Interest?


w.a.nelson said:
I went with Stainless Metric socket button head screws from BoltDepot.com that were around $ .50 a piece. Replaced all under-body screws for pans; diffuser; splitter; and rocker panels. Also replaced bumper mounting screws woth stainless allen head bolts. No need to do anything heroic. BoltDepot.com can get you anything you want in a jiffy.
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Are these going into aluminum? Use lots of anti-seize on stainless, they like to weld together. :thumbsup
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I'm in for 100.

Chip
 
50

Paid via PayPal on 7/16/10
 
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Put me down for 100
 
i'm in for 50. thx

GTED
 
50
 
In for 50
 
I'll be in for the 50.

Richard Hille
The GT School
 
Please review the 1st post of this thread for updated info.
Thx.
 
I'd like 50. Thanks FENZO.
 
50 for me too - Thanks
 
I would like 100.

Thanks
 
Count me in for 50. Thanks, AC
 
A little over a year ago I went to;

Hillco Fastener
www.hillcofasteners.com
7522 Park Avenue
Garden Grove, CA 92841
(714) 657-7442

The screws Ford used appeared prone to rust and the Torx head looked easy to strip. I replaced all of them with Stainless Steel Button Heads.


6mm x 30mm Button HD Socket CS Stainless Qty 20 = $8.30
6mm x 25mm Button HD Socket CS Stainless Qty 480 = $72.74
6mm Fender Washer A-2 Stainless Qty 480 = $21.60
 

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Kingman said:
A little over a year ago I went to;
"The screws Ford used appeared prone to rust and the Torx head looked easy to strip. I replaced all of them with Stainless Steel Button Heads."


I think Ford got it right with these fasteners, I just don’t like the price. I’ll never claim to be an expert, but I do know from experience much thought and effort is applied to fastener selection when dealing with dissimilar metals. This is especially true in the aerospace industry where critical mechanical joints are difficult to inspect. Our application here may not be critical, but corrosion is as unwelcomed.
When two dissimilar metals are in contact, in the presence of a liquid, a battery cell is created which results in corrosion at the anodic component (aluminum). The galvanic series of metals and alloys table tells us that steel is a better selection over stainless steel when fastening to aluminum (steel/Al are closer on the scale). In fact, if the SS employed is martensitic, it is not recommended for use with aluminum alloys. Also, the black oxide coating serves not only appearance, it also will absorb oil or wax providing corrosion protection and a barrier between the metals. The photo provided seems to be chrome plated, which would offer some protection, but I expect would wear on the threads.

Probably would not be an issue for those in dry climates and who never wash their car, but I’ll stick with the choice of the Ford engineers who apparently had this screw custom made.
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FENZO said:
Kingman said:
A little over a year ago I went to;
"The screws Ford used appeared prone to rust and the Torx head looked easy to strip. I replaced all of them with Stainless Steel Button Heads."


I think Ford got it right with these fasteners, I just don’t like the price. I’ll never claim to be an expert, but I do know from experience much thought and effort is applied to fastener selection when dealing with dissimilar metals. This is especially true in the aerospace industry where critical mechanical joints are difficult to inspect. Our application here may not be critical, but corrosion is as unwelcomed.
When two dissimilar metals are in contact, in the presence of a liquid, a battery cell is created which results in corrosion at the anodic component (aluminum). The galvanic series of metals and alloys table tells us that steel is a better selection over stainless steel when fastening to aluminum (steel/Al are closer on the scale). In fact, if the SS employed is martensitic, it is not recommended for use with aluminum alloys. Also, the black oxide coating serves not only appearance, it also will absorb oil or wax providing corrosion protection and a barrier between the metals. The photo provided seems to be chrome plated, which would offer some protection, but I expect would wear on the threads.

Probably would not be an issue for those in dry climates and who never wash their car, but I’ll stick with the choice of the Ford engineers who apparently had this screw custom made.
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Good to know (good thing I had a dictionary handy so I could decipher your explanation) :eek

You are correct, the pic I provided shows a chrome plated screw (which I did NOT purchase). My attempt was to display the hex button head.

I do NOT want the Torx button head screws. It is my opinion that they are far to easy to strip. The ones I pulled off of my gal were already stripping and showing a bit of rust (I am at the water in SoCal). I do wash my car (comments from the Peanut Gallery (Chris and Sam) are not necessary).

That being said, I would like to follow your recommendations...but with a hex button head. Is that possible?
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IHO, Torx is superior to a hex head in every respect except for pricing. Both can strip if the tool head is not seated correctly.
 
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Please put me down for 50 thank you..
 
I'll take 50.
 
I'll take 50. Thank you.
 
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