Lets talk wheels.....

[2112]

High priests in the Temple of Syrinx made me do it...:biggrin

Scott

Ah......I already knew you were a smart guy. :biggrin

 

[sahlman]

Just lots and lots of time on chassis design and listening to Rush!

 

[2112]

Just lots and lots of time on chassis design and listening to Rush!

:cheers:cheers:club

 

[2112]

Scott, Before you sign off,

In the post you deleted, you described how the camber would change with lowering the car. I lowered mine 1.25" up front and .75" in the rear with the single adjust T&A coilovers. Performance is fantastic ( I also went with wider, Stickier Bridgestones) but I can really see the increased negative camber as it was not changed.

As I mentioned Performance is great, Fenders not so full even with wider rubber (stock BBS upgrade wheels).

Can you spill those #s out one more time? Thanks

 

[tanner]

They look nice. What is the brand and style of these wheels?

Forgestar is built by iForged.

 

[sahlman]

Scott, Before you sign off,

In the post you deleted, you described how the camber would change with lowering the car. I lowered mine 1.25" up front and .75" in the rear with the single adjust T&A coilovers. Performance is fantastic ( I also went with wider, Stickier Bridgestones) but I can really see the increased negative camber as it was not changed.

As I mentioned Performance is great, Fenders not so full even with wider rubber (stock BBS upgrade wheels).

Can you spill those #s out one more time? Thanks

2112,

Must have signed off just before your note. No problem on redoing numbers.

For your example, the front camber should have gone from -0.5 deg static camber to -1.125 deg front static camber (-0.5 deg static camber + 1.25 in ride ht change x -0.5 deg/in camber gain = -0.5 deg + -0.625 deg = -1.125 deg front static camber give or take a tenth or so for build and ride height adjustment tolerance)
.
The rear camber should have gone from -1.5 deg static camber to -2.06 deg rear static camber (-1.5 deg static camber + 0.75 in ride ht change x -0.75 deg/in camber gain = -1.5 deg + -0.56 deg = -2.06 deg rear static camber give or take a tenth or so for build and ride height adjustment tolerance).

So you should have been very close to maintaining the stock camber split of -1.0 deg more at the rear, which would keep the same balance as designed.

The more negative camber will give you noticeably more cornering grip along with your wider Bridgestones (which have more grip than base to begin with). The downsides to more camber are typically a little less straight-line performance, more inside edge tire wear on the street and more truck rut following yanking the car around a little more and less full looking fenders.

You can go back to stock cambers and fill the fenders out more and still have better cornering and straightline performance than stock due to the wide stickier Bridgestones and lower Center of Gravity height due to lowering. And then good tire wear and rut following.

Note the rear tire clearance package is tight when the stock car is pushed to the limit...especially on a track with banking. It is tightest to the clamshell. Take a look at your clamshell for witness marks after aggressive driving. No witness marks...let'r rip! But I would check it periodically with those bigger tires, especially if you go back to stock static camber.

Hope this all helps.

Scott

 

[2112]

Hope this all helps.

Scott

Very much so! Thank you .

 

[MNJason]

Wow, good stuff!! I have the same setup as 2112 and this is great info.

 

[sahlman]

Glad it helps guys!

 

[AZGT]

Don't forget about stock wheels

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?14121-Standard-Wheel-Custom-Center-Cap/page2

Look at first post