Instrument Cluster Removal ?

[AMB]

Is there a TRICK to removing the Instrument Cluster ? I removed the (7) screws, BUT it won't come out. I don't want to damage anything. Do you have to disconnect anything else ? :confused

 

[Kingman]

Very good question...and one that I have zero capability to answer.

I will recommend that you wait for replys from several folks that have taken the cluster out....and have reported back that it is one of the most difficult jobs to get right.

I believe that Nota4re and Shadowman would have the most experience to date.

 

[B O N Y]

Shadowman has posted a pictorial. Do a search, I think it may have been part of installing the new boast guage.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I found this thread:

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8536&highlight=gauge+panel&page=3

If you go post by post you'll get some useful info.


In there it's stated that Kip Ewing has a set of instuctions that he sends out with his CF units. You might PM him and see if you can bamboozle him outta 'same. :wink

 

[Shadowman]

Is there a TRICK to removing the Instrument Cluster ? I removed the (7) screws, BUT it won't come out. I don't want to damage anything. Do you have to disconnect anything else ? :confused

Here you go

Disconnect the battery

Have blue tape and towels on hand and within reach

Then you need to crawl under the dash on the driver side and look up above the kick panel and you will see 2 black boxes; you will need to disconnect the two plugs (blue release tabs) from the upper box and then slide your hand up along the wiring because 6-8" up is a press in plastic retainer securing it to a metal brace that also must be removed. It is awkward but can be done with only your hand.

Once this is completed the gauge panel is able to be slide out however;

Now you need to carefully mask around the surround that the gauge panel sits in and the gauge bezels to insure that no secondary damage occurs.

Now remove the seven small Torx screws

"LOWER" the steering column

Then the gauge panel will be free however it will not pop out but rather it will need to be persuaded. If you grab the bezel on the far left you will be able to pull the panel out a small distance thus loosening the assembly and then grab the speedometer and work gently back and forth between the these two gauges until the assembly is loose but still feel bound. At this point you need to pull the speedometer gauge out first as it is in at an angle which means that the gauge panel will come out at an angle and then as it come out I roll it placing the gauge faces down. This is where the towels come into play; make sure that you have one on your leather steering column and over your shifter and center console area so as to insure that nothing gets damaged. Now you will not be able to pull the gauge panel and the associated wiring harness all the way out as the harness plug ends become caught where the metal portion of the dash infrastructure and the dash itself come together as such with the gauges sitting face down on the steering column take a couple pictures or make good notes and then cut the zip ties and unplug the harness after which the gauge and the panel can be removed.

The pictures and the notes are not to insure the proper placement of the plugs as they are all marked but rather so you remember the manner in which the harness is routed because the space behind the gauges is limited and if not placed properly you will find that you install the gauges and panel however it will not fully recess.

** When you are sliding the gauges out you should also reach under the dash and make sure that the harness is not binding as the gauges are being removed and then when installing the gauges gently pull on and guide the harness as you pull everything back into position.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[AMB]

Instrument Cluster Removal

Thanks Showman !!
I was trying to use the GT manual, It doesn't say to disconnect the TWO Connectors, BEFORE you remove it. I knew something was holding it from comming out all the way. :thumbsup I have a "Door Agar Indercator Light", ALWAYS ON!!! I'm trying to troubleshoot it. I need to pull the Instrument Cluster, to get to the Gauge Control Module and Warning Indicator Bar/Indicator Control Module.

 

[TEXAS GT]

I have a "Door Agar Indercator Light", ALWAYS ON!!! I'm trying to troubleshoot it. I need to pull the Instrument Cluster, to get to the Gauge Control Module and Warning Indicator Bar/Indicator Control Module.

Did you check your doors and trunk lid first?:lol

Just kidding. Be aware that on early '05 models, the plug on the back of the panel that attaches to the circuit board controlling the odometer readout can be reversed by mistake when you reattach it. If you do, you will fry the circuit board and I understand it gets very expensive after that.
On later cars they fixed the plug so it only goes on one way. Mark it anyway before you detach it.

Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[AlohaGT]

Shadowman has posted a pictorial. Do a search, I think it may have been part of installing the new boast guage.

What a great Freudian! :wink

 

[somelee]

Here you go


Now you need to carefully mask around the surround that the gauge panel sits in and the gauge bezels to insure that no secondary damage occurs.


Shadowman

use extra tape!....maybe double layer....that gauge panel is really sharp and can easily tear through the blue tape and tear up the top of your steering column!

don't ask how i know this!

 

[Shadowman]

use extra tape!....maybe double layer....that gauge panel is really sharp and can easily tear through the blue tape and tear up the top of your steering column!

don't ask how i know this!

I will not ask however I will share that it is very important to lower the steering column and then place a towel or ? over it during this process.

I have had folks not lower it nor cover it and as the result the process will scratch the leather on the top of the column. Fortunately those that this happened to were able to be fixed very easy.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[pauls]

Here you go

Disconnect the battery

Have blue tape and towels on hand and within reach

Then you need to crawl under the dash on the driver side and look up above the kick panel and you will see 2 black boxes; you will need to disconnect the two plugs (blue release tabs) from the upper box and then slide your hand up along the wiring because 6-8" up is a press in plastic retainer securing it to a metal brace that also must be removed. It is awkward but can be done with only your hand.

Once this is completed the gauge panel is able to be slide out however;

Now you need to carefully mask around the surround that the gauge panel sits in and the gauge bezels to insure that no secondary damage occurs.

Now remove the seven small Torx screws

"LOWER" the steering column

Then the gauge panel will be free however it will not pop out but rather it will need to be persuaded. If you grab the bezel on the far left you will be able to pull the panel out a small distance thus loosening the assembly and then grab the speedometer and work gently back and forth between the these two gauges until the assembly is loose but still feel bound. At this point you need to pull the speedometer gauge out first as it is in at an angle which means that the gauge panel will come out at an angle and then as it come out I roll it placing the gauge faces down. This is where the towels come into play; make sure that you have one on your leather steering column and over your shifter and center console area so as to insure that nothing gets damaged. Now you will not be able to pull the gauge panel and the associated wiring harness all the way out as the harness plug ends become caught where the metal portion of the dash infrastructure and the dash itself come together as such with the gauges sitting face down on the steering column take a couple pictures or make good notes and then cut the zip ties and unplug the harness after which the gauge and the panel can be removed.

The pictures and the notes are not to insure the proper placement of the plugs as they are all marked but rather so you remember the manner in which the harness is routed because the space behind the gauges is limited and if not placed properly you will find that you install the gauges and panel however it will not fully recess.

** When you are sliding the gauges out you should also reach under the dash and make sure that the harness is not binding as the gauges are being removed and then when installing the gauges gently pull on and guide the harness as you pull everything back into position.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance

Takes care

Shadowman

Beautifully detailed. Thanks!

 

[wayne darby]

Shadowman: I need to remove the whole dash to transfer it to the new body. After dropping the steering column, Do I have to remove the guage cluster or will the dash come out in one piece? waynedarby@telus.net

 

[nota4re]

Remove the gauge cluster first. Not very difficult.

 

[Simon]

Shadowman: I need to remove the whole dash to transfer it to the new body. After dropping the steering column, Do I have to remove the guage cluster or will the dash come out in one piece? waynedarby@telus.net

Wayne please start a thread on your project with pictures of the car and your progress. Thanks

 

[2112]

I am guessing the the tolerances allow for different cars having different degrees of difficulty on the gauge cluster to be removed. Mine was an extremely difficult R&R. The aluminum panel fit the plastic surround as if they were the male and female of a Morse Taper mechanical lock. It took extreme force from behind to break it loose.

And the 3M blue tape I put over the steering column lifted some of the finish surface when I took it off.

YMMV.

 

[PeteK]

Mike, you’re not supposed to leave the tape on for months.

 

[2112]

It was on for 9 days. The 2 weekends I worked on it and the workweek that interrupted it.

But point taken. All tapes glue themselves more aggressively given enough time.
.