How Many $$$ / Replace Engine Temp Gauge????

[Ole Blu]

Has anyone else had to replace their engine temperature gauge? :confused

I just found out that my engine temperature guage needs replacement.

The Ford Dealer quoted

$530.00 --- Gauge
$200.00 --- Labor
$ 79.00 --- Tax

$809.00 --- Total :ack

 

[STORMCAT]

Has anyone else had to replace their engine temperature gauge? :confused

I just found out that my engine temperature guage needs replacement.

The Ford Dealer quoted

$530.00 --- Gauge
$200.00 --- Labor
$ 79.00 --- Tax

$809.00 --- Total :ack

My garage queen has two gauges on the fritz , Volt meter and Boost gauge.. I'm hoping mine is battery related . If bad mine will be covered under warranty. I'm going to swap batteries and check grounds first. The optima battery in the GT is known not to come back if it gets low and not
maintained. Is your car out of warranty ?

 

[Empty Pockets]

Hey, Blu, do you know if the SENDING unit was checked to see if it was the culprit first? Mucho easier to replace that, and if memory serves, that's what many here have found to be the pblm rather than the guage.

And as Stormy suggested, the charge on the darn battery has been the boogyman behind many supposedly "dead" guages around here in the past. 'Trickle charge THAT (and/or clean the ground/connectors) and guage pblms have usually gone away for many.

 

[Shadowman]

Has anyone else had to replace their engine temperature gauge? :confused

I just found out that my engine temperature guage needs replacement.

The Ford Dealer quoted

$530.00 --- Gauge
$200.00 --- Labor
$ 79.00 --- Tax

$809.00 --- Total :ack

What are the symptoms?

Now if the gauge needs to be replaced then the associated labor cost is extremely reasonable however the retail price for a new gauge is only $245.60 so their $530.00 price as presented to you makes no sense to me as such now “everything” is suspect.

Furthermore; beware of this; that if they or ?? are not careful secondary damage to the gauge surround and the gauge face is eminent.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Ole Blu]

Is the retail price of $245.60 a Ford Dealer ?

 

[Ole Blu]

Is the retail price $245.60 from a Ford Dealer pricing book?

What are the symptoms?

Now if the gauge needs to be replaced then the associated labor cost is extremely reasonable however the retail price for a new gauge is only $245.60 so their $530.00 price as presented to you makes no sense to me as such now “everything” is suspect.

Furthermore; beware of this; that if they or ?? are not careful secondary damage to the gauge surround and the gauge face is eminent.

Takes care

Shadowman

Is the retail price of $245.60 a Ford Dealer ?

Is the retail price of $245.60 a Ford Dealer ?[/QUOTE]

 

[tmcphail]

Is the retail price of $245.60 a Ford Dealer ?

Correct

 

[nota4re]

As others have said... the gauge price is way too high and the labor cost is too low.

There are some rather detailed multi-step diagnostics in the Service Manual for trouble-shooting and isolating the problem to be the gauge. Were these steps already performed?

 

[Ole Blu]

The dealers tech connected the computer to the vehicle and could get all the guages to respond with the exception of the engine temperature gauge.

 

[Ole Blu]

Dealer's Diagnosis

As others have said... the gauge price is way too high and the labor cost is too low.

There are some rather detailed multi-step diagnostics in the Service Manual for trouble-shooting and isolating the problem to be the gauge. Were these steps already performed?

The dealers tech connected the computer to the vehicle and could get all the guages to respond with the exception of the engine temperature gauge.

The dealers tech connected the computer to the vehicle and could get all the guages to respond with the exception of the engine temperature gauge.

 

[Empty Pockets]

The dealers tech connected the computer to the vehicle and could get all the guages to respond with the exception of the engine temperature gauge.

Many have mentioned that there are times when the exact situation you mention can result from a low battery...believe it or not!:biggrin

If you don't normally keep your car on a trickle charger, I'd try trickle charging (ONLY!) for a couple days and then start the car and see if the guage works. THAT will cost ya nuthin'.

 

[Ole Blu]

Ground Straps ???

My garage queen has two gauges on the fritz , Volt meter and Boost gauge.. I'm hoping mine is battery related . If bad mine will be covered under warranty. I'm going to swap batteries and check grounds first. The optima battery in the GT is known not to come back if it gets low and not
maintained. Is your car out of warranty ?

Stormcat;

Responses on the Forum have reference battery charge (mine is fully charged) and "cleaning of the ground strap" (is this the ground strap for the battery; if so mine appears "pristine"

Is there a ground strap for the gauge itself?

Thanks

"Ole Blu"

 

[Jim]

Low battery was the culprit when my guages acted up. New battery fixed it. Charging the factory battery did not work. It simply would not hold a charge. I found an Autolite plug-n-play battery that fit perfect at 1/2 the price.

 

[fjpikul]

Blu, there are lots of old posts with pictures about the ground strap. While appearing pristine, the attachment point may have too much black paint on it. You need to pull the bolt, sand off to bare metal, and reattach the ground strap with the same bolt. This has alleviated many of the gremlins associated with the electrical system that are not necessarily obvious.

 

[B O N Y]

The good Doctor is ass-o-lutely spot on.

 

[Ole Blu]

To quote Ed Mcman "You are correct Sir(s)" !!!

:eek

My garage queen has two gauges on the fritz , Volt meter and Boost gauge.. I'm hoping mine is battery related . If bad mine will be covered under warranty. I'm going to swap batteries and check grounds first. The optima battery in the GT is known not to come back if it gets low and not
maintained. Is your car out of warranty ?

The good Doctor is ass-o-lutely spot on.

Stormcat & BONY

I just came in from the garage after having pulled the battery ground strap -- Low & behold the body surface beneath the battery grouond stap was 100 % covered with balck paint -- I never would have be able to tell as it looked 'pristine" to the eye. :eek

I sanded the contact area to bare metal and reattatched the stap.

My battery tender is in the final stage of topping the charge.

I'll give it a couple of hours and post the results

To answer Stormcats question regarding my warranty; the manufature's warrrant expired June of 2008 -- I have an extended warranty / $50.00 deductible -- But I do not want to remove the instrument face plate and panel without it being "absolutely" necessary. :frown

Thanks to both of you and all of the FORD GT Forum's members who assist each other through such situations. :banana

THIS FORUM IS GREAT !!!!!

"Ole Blu"

 

[B O N Y]

I found the same situation and cleaned the area as a preventive measure based on what I learned on this board.

 

[Ole Blu]

Did the Same

I found the same situation and cleaned the area as a preventive measure based on what I learned on this board.

Bony -- Having cleaned the battery gound cable surface the I ran the car for approx. 10 minutes in Idle.

Thee engine temperature gauge still does not register.

Anything else I can check or am I off to the dealer for a gauge replacement??

Ole Blu

 

[B O N Y]

May I suggest a ten minute drive under load?

 

[nota4re]

The dealers tech connected the computer to the vehicle and could get all the guages to respond with the exception of the engine temperature gauge.

As the temp gauge does not have a unique ground, this data point unfortunately swung the odds greatly in favor of a bad gauge. The fact that the dealer gave such a low quote for labor may indicate that they haven't pulled a gauge panel yet. Of course, the other alternative is that they've done many and are very proficient at it! Just in case, here's some info that might be of some assistance.

1. Start by disconnecting the negative ground cable from the battery (8mm wrench).

2. There are two connectors - one blue and one white up under the dash nearby the steering column (just to the left). The connectors' harnesses "Y" together, so if you find one, you'll find the other. The connectors will pull out toward the passenger side of the car - from left to right, if you will. Once the connectors are out, you will find the harness secured with a "Christmas tree" push connector just a couple of inches above where the harness Y's together. The push connector pulls out toward the front of the car.

3. I think that the dash gauge panel removal is easier with the lower dash panel and knee crush plate removed. If the lower dash is removed, be sure to support it very carefully in the narrow area just above the start button and stereo. DO NOT allow the panel to bend here.

4. Lower the steering column to its lowest position. Place a small towel or shop cloth over the steering column. Using blue painter's tape, tape the binnacle (that's the plastic shroud around the gauge panel and with the switches in the lower side). Tape evenly and try not to get it too thick. Tape the area so that when you slide the gauge panel out, you will not scratch anything. Place tape over the switches. Place tape on the top side of the steering wheel and have a cloth handy to place on the wheel when the gauge panel is most of the way out.

5. Next, remove all of the small torx screws holding the gauge panel in place.

6. You will need to gently work the gauge panel out. The left side will come out first. If you have removed the lower dash panel and knee crush panel, you will be able to get your fingers behind the gauges and help to push them outward toward you. Take your time, and make sure your blue tape is in all of the right places. It may help to push up in the center of the binnacle to provide the gauge panel more room to work forward. Also, make sure that the connectors from underneath aren't getting hung up on anything.

7. With the gauge panel out, place a cloth or towel across the top of the steering wheel and the dash. Lay the panel face down. In this position, you will be able to R&R the faulty gauge. Don't over-tighten the nyloc nuts. Notice that the gauge securing studs are approximately even with the nyloc nuts.

8. IMPORTANT: Before re-installing the gauge panel, look at the opening you will slip the panel into. Notice that there is a metal j-clip on the left side at about the 8 o'clock position. This clip is your enemy! (LOL). Frequently when re-inserting the panel, this clip will be the culprit in your way. If you have the lower dash panel off, you will be able to see this.

9. Carefully work the panel back into place. Slip the right side in first. Be careful when you have to go up and over the switches. Again. pressing up on the center of the binnacle will sometimes help. Work it back into place. As mentioned in the previous step, watch that damn clip on the lower left corner. Sometimes it may be necessary to slide a long straightblade screwdriver in there and re-position this clip. Also, you may need to gently pull on the harness connectors and make sure they are feeding down correctly. Go slow, and take your time. It really does go back!

10. Before re-installing the small dash torx screws, make sure that you can remove all of your blue tape. (This step added from experience!) Avoid over-tightening these screws!

11. Plug the connectors back in and re-install the Christmas tree. Re-install the knee crush panel and lower dash panel if removed earlier.

12. Re-connect the battery.