Hidden dangers of buying low mile car?

[Cadster]

So I am in market. Been casually in market for a while actually, but I am at the point now where I am the closest I have been to pulling the trigger. I won’t bore everyone with how close I have come in the past, but let’s just say, it’s a long and strange road, but here we are. In any case, as I survey the marketplace a couple notable conclusions are quickly arrived at: currently not very many cars being marketed and not very many of those cars have really even been driven. I am probably right to be concerned about sub-1000 mile, 15 year old cars. I have a fully restored 67 Camaro with a brand new 383 stroker engine that has been driven 3000 miles in the 5 years since I bought it and I thought that to be very low usage. All cars like to be consistently driven and I am sure 05/06 FGT’s behave similarly. So a couple key discussion points:

1). Has anyone successfully acquire a low mile car and actually drive it? My intended purpose would be about 1000+ miles driven per year as I have 3 other cool cars that would be competing for seat time with the GT.

2). What might need to be done to retrofit a previous collection queen and convert it into a real driver‘s car?

3). What might the expected expense be of converting a collection queen into a real driver’s car? I would want a proper, no expense spared conversion. I have precious little time to even drive and even less time for mechanical gremlins.

Thanks a ton for any and all feedback and discussion.

 

[nota4re]

We have the pleasure of servicing a LOT of GT's. In terms of bringing a garage queen into driving condition, other than the oil pump belt, there's really nothing special that needs to be done. The following would be my checklist.

1. Tires may be date coded out (more than 5-6 years old) - Check and replace if needed.
2. For a car that has been sitting, I would replace the oil pump belt as a precaution
3. Check and replace battery if needed
4. Check clutch fluid reservoir - fill and/or flush/replace as necessary.
5. Replace engine oil and filter if needed

I really think that's a pretty complete list. In other words, there's not much needed on a GT - nor is there a lot of maintenance when you start driving it.

 

[centerpunch]

The biggest danger of buying a 1000 mile car to drive is losing $50K in value in the first 10K miles you drive.

 

[Shark01]

What Kendall and Paul said....also weatherstripping gets old sitting or not.

Go see the post I made to BlkDiablo33 last night....I would ask you the same question.

 

[thegtguy]

Very interesting thread going on here. I will have to chime in on this one. So, the main question is “What is the risk of buying a low mileage GT?”

Answer: A LOT

Just like any other car the basics, mileage, condition, maintenance, maintenance records, leaks and so on.

For the GT specific part I will briefly list the issues on a 24 mile (wrapper car) I just went through a few weeks ago after I did the PPI in FL. Yes it still had the plastic on the seats from Saleen.

Once it arrived at my shop I did all the normal work I do:

Engine oil filter change

Transmission oil change and clean the magnet and the screen

Flush out the brake fluid

Flush out the clutch fluid and clean the “floaties” out of the bottom of the reservoir

Drain and refill the engine and I/C coolants

Change the oil pump, main FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive), and s/c belts

New spark plugs (didn’t really need them but wanted everything new)

New air filters (didn’t really need them but wanted everything new)

Fuel filter

Evacuate and recharge a/c. It was very low on charge as they all are.

That’s pretty much the normal 3-5 year maintenance anyway.

Had a few small chips and scratches but nothing a good detail couldn’t fix.

Now for the other issues:

I/C pump didn’t work and had to replace

The LED was bad on the headlight switch too.

Heater blend door was stuck (pretty common issue lately. I mostly see this in cars the live in warmer temps) I was able to take the dash apart and fix this one. Sometimes I have to replace the entire HVAC assembly.

Rear lower control arm and toe link boots were cracked. Common issue and just replaced the boots like I do a lot now.

Tires were original and since he wanted to start driving it I put new Bridgestones on.

The backlights on the HVAC controls didn’t work. Installed new module.

Air bag recall wasn’t done. I replaced the ignitors and completed the recall.

Front hood and rear clamshell struts were bad. Replaced

Both fog lights had a haze over them. Replace lights. Not the bulb but the glass of the fog lights assembly.

Both wipers had deteriorated and left residue on the windshield. Installed new wipers and had to polish out the spots on the windshield.

Battery did not pass the load test. Installed new battery and trickle charger so it could be plugged in by the tow hook.

Replaced the coil covers as they were starting to flake, just a little.

Repainted drivers side airbag as is was looking bad.

Replaced both clamshell spring bumpers as the plastic caps were falling apart.

Did the half shaft bolt kit as they were still original.

Cleaned all the grounds, mainly the one at the battery and the engine/chassis one.

I think that’s about it. Luckily both fuel pumps still worked as many times the secondary one does not, especially if the car never see heavy load above 3500RPM.

I know the list sounds bad but all in all it was a very nice (Original, wrapper, whatever you want to call it) car.

Also I told the new owner that the oil pump and anything else may start leaking as he starts to put miles on it too. I did all my hot tests and test drove it (no leaks before it shipped) but as the car actually gets used, leaks may start since it is a low mileage car. The shocks were not leaking yet like most are nowadays.



On another note I have another car that has been sitting for the last 13 years. It has most of the above wrong with it and also the injectors were stuck closed. I did all the checks and proved that the injectors were stuck closed. With a little “persuasion” we were able to get it running until the new injectors arrive.



So, in short, I guess it is pretty easy for anyone to look at a GT, kick the tires, wave their hand, and see if it is a good car or not. As I have told MANY owners. They all have stories, it just a matter of seeing if the car matches it and how big is the story,

 

[AJB]

Great report Rich. Thanks... this should serve as an alert to anyone purchasing a "wrapper car". I have now been involved in two "bad incidents" where "wrapper cars" DID NOT HAVE THIS TYPE OF EXTENSIVE MAINTINANCE DONE, were driven and "lunched" both engines. One owner is now up to a $40,000 repair bill and is frustrated.
If you buy one of these low mileage cars go to Rich or Kendall or one of our dealer experts such as Joe at Milliken Ford, and have the vehicle completely serviced before driving it .
Andy ,(ajb)

 

[twobjshelbys]

When I got mine it was nearly 6 years old with 1300 miles and according to OASIS, 1000 of those were put on in the first few months and the owner said the last 300 just before he sent it to me. So it sat for nearly 5 of those 6 years. I sent it to Rich directly where he changed all fluids, oil pump belt, etc. He warned me about some superharger oil on the top of the engine that looked like it was leaking but he couldn't find it. After I got it within my first 300 miles the S/C started making a definite "whine" that wasn't blower, and I also saw the oil on the top of the engine. The supercharger snout bearings were out. Sent it to repair (a guy in Oklahoma that still repairs them, although if you do so talk to me first because there are troubles) and he said the bearings had gone flat due to belt tension.

 

[Sinovac]

Rear lower control arm and toe link boots were cracked. Common issue and just replaced the boots like I do a lot.

.

How much to do this if the arms/links are shipped to you?

 

[The Grey Ghost]

Rear lower control arm and toe link boots were cracked. Common issue and just replaced the boots like I do a lot now.

Reminds me, I need to get these ordered for my spring maintenance.

 

[Gary]

So I am in market. Been casually in market for a while actually, but I am at the point now where I am the closest I have been to pulling the trigger. I won’t bore everyone with how close I have come in the past, but let’s just say, it’s a long and strange road, but here we are. In any case, as I survey the marketplace a couple notable conclusions are quickly arrived at: currently not very many cars being marketed and not very many of those cars have really even been driven. I am probably right to be concerned about sub-1000 mile, 15 year old cars. I have a fully restored 67 Camaro with a brand new 383 stroker engine that has been driven 3000 miles in the 5 years since I bought it and I thought that to be very low usage. All cars like to be consistently driven and I am sure 05/06 FGT’s behave similarly. So a couple key discussion points:

1). Has anyone successfully acquire a low mile car and actually drive it? My intended purpose would be about 1000+ miles driven per year as I have 3 other cool cars that would be competing for seat time with the GT.

2). What might need to be done to retrofit a previous collection queen and convert it into a real driver‘s car?

3). What might the expected expense be of converting a collection queen into a real driver’s car? I would want a proper, no expense spared conversion. I have precious little time to even drive and even less time for mechanical gremlins.

Thanks a ton for any and all feedback and discussion.

Just do it. Just bought a 1500 05 GT mile replacing my crashed 14,000 mile 05. Runs great. Changed fluids and new Bridgestone's.

 

[ENZO BTR]

Wow. As someone who drove one over 30,000 miles this thread is fascinating to me. A clear reminder of why these cars need to be driven.

Rich did the bulk of the work on my car, and pretty sure (even after 30K) it had less “maintenance” work performed on it than this “in the wrapper” car. AND I GOT TO EXPERIENCE 31,000 MILES OF FORD GT JOY, TOO!

Cars are meant to be driven

 

[2112]

When a secondary fuel pump is failing, what are the symptoms? Surging? Missing? Sputtering? (3500rpm with load).

Does that throw a CEL?
.

 

[dbk]

My advice is this; even spending any and all money to get a wrapper 05/06 GT sorted after 15 years of sitting is in all likelihood a trivial expense compared to your garden variety service expenses of any other exotic. If you're used to spending money on anything else in this ballpark, the GT is generally comically cheap and easy in comparison outside of a fluke problem.

 

[soroush]

When a secondary fuel pump is failing, what are the symptoms? Surging? Missing? Sputtering? (3500rpm with load).

Does that throw a CEL?
.

when you accelerate quickly,,,, past 3500 rpm the car fall flat on its face... usually means the secondary pump is not coming on. sometimes its the pump driver that fails not the pump itself.

 

[nota4re]

In almost all cases of a failed fuel pump, a CEL is triggered.

 

[Cadster]

Wow! I can’t thank everyone enough for their input. Talk about a treasure trove of info. Even the resident luminaries weighed in with high level insight that only they can provide after the thousands and thousands of hours they have devoted to their craft. I would still still wish to acquire a car that has been driven, but I feel 1000% more confident in pursuing a lower mile car if that proves to be the best available option. Thanks again.

 

[Shark01]

I would still still wish to acquire a car that has been driven, but I feel 1000% more confident in pursuing a lower mile car if that proves to be the best available option. Thanks again.

In general, the fastest moving market IMO is the below $240k one (20k miles or more), twice this week, shelf live has been less than 24 hours....as long as the car is clean or has a verifiable history. Mine was in this pricing group, and was super fortunate to find an off-the-market car where there wasn't competition, so I could take the time to verify everything.

There is a car with a no-haggle ask of $235k, with both an accident of unknown severity that the dealer cannot answer any questions about, and a super bizarre ownership history....it looks like it's never had a registered owner, went from dealer to dealer. That car is way overpriced for the stories and has been sitting for a month.

I found the $270-290k ask market to be very calm, plenty of time to get your business done....not much competition.

 

[twobjshelbys]

My advice is this; even spending any and all money to get a wrapper 05/06 GT sorted after 15 years of sitting is in all likelihood a trivial expense compared to your garden variety service expenses of any other exotic. If you're used to spending money on anything else in this ballpark, the GT is generally comically cheap and easy in comparison outside of a fluke problem.

What Dave says is true: The cost of ownership of the same-era competition will cost you alot more than the Ford GT.

But with dealers trained service staff diminishing and the cost of mundane things like an oil change (my dealer wanted $500) pick up the service manual and do things yourself. The truth of the matter is it's just a Ford, and everything is simple. Some things are good to leave to the pros - like changing the coolants but only because they are done infrequently and best done with rarely used tools and accessories - but the oil is easy as are basic maintenance things.

 

[B.M.F.]

Very interesting thread going on here. I will have to chime in on this one. So, the main question is “What is the risk of buying a low mileage GT?”

Answer: A LOT

Just like any other car the basics, mileage, condition, maintenance, maintenance records, leaks and so on.

For the GT specific part I will briefly list the issues on a 24 mile (wrapper car) I just went through a few weeks ago after I did the PPI in FL. Yes it still had the plastic on the seats from Saleen.

Once it arrived at my shop I did all the normal work I do:

Engine oil filter change

Transmission oil change and clean the magnet and the screen

Flush out the brake fluid

Flush out the clutch fluid and clean the “floaties” out of the bottom of the reservoir

Drain and refill the engine and I/C coolants

Change the oil pump, main FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive), and s/c belts

New spark plugs (didn’t really need them but wanted everything new)

New air filters (didn’t really need them but wanted everything new)

Fuel filter

Evacuate and recharge a/c. It was very low on charge as they all are.

That’s pretty much the normal 3-5 year maintenance anyway.

Had a few small chips and scratches but nothing a good detail couldn’t fix.

Now for the other issues:

I/C pump didn’t work and had to replace

The LED was bad on the headlight switch too.

Heater blend door was stuck (pretty common issue lately. I mostly see this in cars the live in warmer temps) I was able to take the dash apart and fix this one. Sometimes I have to replace the entire HVAC assembly.

Rear lower control arm and toe link boots were cracked. Common issue and just replaced the boots like I do a lot now.

Tires were original and since he wanted to start driving it I put new Bridgestones on.

The backlights on the HVAC controls didn’t work. Installed new module.

Air bag recall wasn’t done. I replaced the ignitors and completed the recall.

Front hood and rear clamshell struts were bad. Replaced

Both fog lights had a haze over them. Replace lights. Not the bulb but the glass of the fog lights assembly.

Both wipers had deteriorated and left residue on the windshield. Installed new wipers and had to polish out the spots on the windshield.

Battery did not pass the load test. Installed new battery and trickle charger so it could be plugged in by the tow hook.

Replaced the coil covers as they were starting to flake, just a little.

Repainted drivers side airbag as is was looking bad.

Replaced both clamshell spring bumpers as the plastic caps were falling apart.

Did the half shaft bolt kit as they were still original.

Cleaned all the grounds, mainly the one at the battery and the engine/chassis one.

I think that’s about it. Luckily both fuel pumps still worked as many times the secondary one does not, especially if the car never see heavy load above 3500RPM.

I know the list sounds bad but all in all it was a very nice (Original, wrapper, whatever you want to call it) car.

Also I told the new owner that the oil pump and anything else may start leaking as he starts to put miles on it too. I did all my hot tests and test drove it (no leaks before it shipped) but as the car actually gets used, leaks may start since it is a low mileage car. The shocks were not leaking yet like most are nowadays.



On another note I have another car that has been sitting for the last 13 years. It has most of the above wrong with it and also the injectors were stuck closed. I did all the checks and proved that the injectors were stuck closed. With a little “persuasion” we were able to get it running until the new injectors arrive.



So, in short, I guess it is pretty easy for anyone to look at a GT, kick the tires, wave their hand, and see if it is a good car or not. As I have told MANY owners. They all have stories, it just a matter of seeing if the car matches it and how big is the story,

Edited.. thanks for the list Rich.

 

[FerrariSlayer]

Curious why not just replace the front seal on the oil pump versus replacing the whole pump which will become extinct in the near future? It's very easy to do and you're talking a sub $100.00 part versus a 1000-1500 plus dollar item. The seal is special and hard to find. I've done several but at some point it will be the only option..

Unless I missed it, I don't think he replaced the oil pump. He replaced the oil pump belt along with the other two belts.