Halfshaft bolt install question?
- Thread starter jdoc7
- Start date
SFLGT
Well-known member
NO. your are just taking the axle loose from the transaxle side. no need to remove the axle from the hub side.
Jones
GT Owner
Just pull it back toward the wheel and move it off to the side allowing it to rest on the lower arm.
Exactly. Also, although it may be tempting, you should resist to pull the flange off of the splined output shaft even after you have removed the two bolts and thick washer. If there's any sign of transaxle fluid within the coupler (after you have removed the 6 outer bolts), it is because fluid has seeped out between the splines where the flange and output shaft slide together. So, if there's any fluid, first clean the area with a light solvent then use your finger to smear a layer of black ATV on the face of the output shaft where the splines are engaging with the hub. Alternatively, you can ATV the back of the thick washer before putting it in place. It is OK for the ATC to ooze out a little bit - almost exactly the way it has if you look closely at the great pics in this thread. This is essentially the Service Bullitin issued by Ford. My experience is that about 1 in 5 cars will have a little bit of weeping and need this additional procedure.
Thanks guys! You just saved me a bit of time! I was planning on taking everything down (calipers, e-brake, sway, lower control arm, etc) according to the manual but then when I got the bolt kit, it came with directions that did not mention doing any of that stuff and I couldn't see why I would need to so I thought I'd ask. Thanks for the info, great tips!
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
Kendall-
Thanks as always, but I have a question on your prose,
"then use your finger to smear a layer of black ATV on the face of the output shaft where the splines are engaging..."
The term "ATV" ...... are you referring to applying black "RTV" (which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization) to the splines? This is like a medium-high temperature silicone (black in color)? Just am not familiar with the ATV term, so thought you might clarify (at least for me....).
Thanks,
Thanks as always, but I have a question on your prose,
"then use your finger to smear a layer of black ATV on the face of the output shaft where the splines are engaging..."
The term "ATV" ...... are you referring to applying black "RTV" (which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization) to the splines? This is like a medium-high temperature silicone (black in color)? Just am not familiar with the ATV term, so thought you might clarify (at least for me....).
Thanks,
If you read the Ford reapir procedure there is mention of a specific Ford sealer, which the dealer should give you with the bolts. If anyone needs the number I still have the tube in the garage. If I remember correctly you are supposed to remove the hub, clean the splines then apply a 5mm bead of this red sealer to the splines then replace the hub all within 4 minutes.
John
John
SFLGT
Well-known member
The ford specified silicone come in a red tube and yes is meant to go on the splines. To be honest what I always use and most other Ford techs is the for grey silicone. It only comes in a caulking gun style tube, but is the best sealing and strongest silicone you will ever use. I really recommend it. It is a little thicker then the red that Ford says to use and I have found can sometimes not dry completely if the tube is a little old.
I completed the halfshaft bolt replacement today. Really a pretty straight-forward and simple job with two people, although I probably could have accomplished it on my own if I had to. I had a little oil (maybe a drop) in the coupler on the right hand side, so I just used a little Permatex black high-heat gasket maker on the back side of the new washer. I did not use any of the FORD cleaner, solvent, or gasket maker. Luckily, both bolts on each side were still intact, no heads sheared off!:thumbsup Anyone who can turn a wrench should do this! I am glad I did not take it to the dealer because there are a number of parts that can be cosmetically damaged during this install, like the cats, rotors, calipers, if care is not taken. When using a screwdriver between the rotor and caliper to prevent spinning of the halfshaft, be certain to pry against the e-brake caliper, not the actual caliper as the paint will likely chip off! The e-brake calipers are not painted. After doing this once, I could do another GT in less than 2 hours. (Assuming no broken bolts) It really is fairly simple.