Half shaft moves

[richardson221]

Noticed oil on ground under boot rt side rear next to tire. Cleaned up and after reading threads, determined that half shaft moves about 2 in back and forth. I had the recall bolts done 2500 miles ago under warranty. I drive like an old lady. What causes them to break again? Big question is it OK to drive the car to dealer to get repaired?
Thanks
Mike

 

[Empty Pockets]

I'd trailer it. Why take the chance of 'em puking completely on the way to the shop/dealer???

Seriously...

 

[larry21]

Hi Mike

My original bolts broke while driving from the UK to France in 2006

I was lucky I was going to Le Mans with Roush and they replaced them at the roadside.

When I got back I had the recall bolts fitted no problem until I went to France three years later.

Guess what they broke again had to leave my GT on the side of the road and eventually got it trucked to a garage in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne then got it trucked back to UK.

My understanding is it's not dangerous to drive for some reason they only break as you just start to move at very low speed but I have no idea why.

For the avoidance of doubt get it trucked to the dealer.

I would fit Accufab bolts. That's what I have done.

Cheers

 

[twobjshelbys]

There were two sets of Ford recall bolts. The first round were prone to fail as were the originals.

 

[nota4re]

Yeah, I agree, it is NOT safe to drive your car to the dealership. You need to flatbed it there. There's just too much risk that suspension articulation will cause that halfshaft to pull out. If that happens, you will have minimally a mess if not loss of control of the car. Don't risk it.

It is VERY unusual for the proper Ford correction kit to have failed. It could be that you received just the black/washer + same-bad-bolts that Ford inadvertently distributed on their first try to correct the problem. It could also be that the dealership did not do the repair on both sides or did not do it correctly (there is a very specific torque sequence, for example, that need to be followed.) Many mechanics believe that they have a torque wrench built into their elbows.

Order the Accufab kit because it has the ARP bolts. (PM me if you need a kit - pretty sure we have them in stock.) PLEASE ask the dealership to take some pics with the coupler apart as these pictures might be very revealing as to what was or wasn't done on your car.

As for the spirit of your original question..... I don't think you should be concerned at all about the viability of the fixes. Done properly, you should NEVER see this again. The key is to make sure you get the fix done properly. If you share with us the part of the Country you are in, there's probably folks on here that can refer you to a dealership and/or an individual you can count on to get the work done right.

 

[ultrasportracing]

look up my posting on CV joints. looks like same problem as its the outer joint

 

[richardson221]

Thanks for the reply's. The part number that was used, is 4G7Z-4B490-A

 

[Indy GT]

There were two sets of Ford recall bolts. The first round were prone to fail as were the originals.

Richardson221, Tony is absolutely correct. At Rally 2, Long Beach CA, Jamal held a technical session for those owners wanting the latest info on the axle bolt issue. According to my August 2007 notes, there were three different versions of axle bolt upgrades, “AA”, “BA” and the final “CA” version. But I believe as Tony indicates only two were released. Initial focus was on the washer thickness through which the two bolts pass. It was thought the washer was bending or imparting bending loads into the bolt heads which caused the failures. This was not the failure root cause as measurements made by the Ford engineers showed there is very little load which goes through these bolts. That low loading was what was so perplexing in determining why the bolts failed with so little loading.

Ford did (IMO) the right thing by fully diagnosing and understanding the root cause of the axle bolt failures. This did take time and expense. It would have been much easier to just substitute a different material bolt perhaps not black oxide plated and offered that as a fix without fully vetting the failure mode, but they chose the more laborious/costly route by actually figuring out why the failures occurred which was finally attributed to hydrogen embrittlement.

The “CA” version re-sourced the bolts to a Detroit vendor (not Europe where the transaxle was made) without the detrimental plating and after the new bolts are installed, the cars halfshafts are fine. I see on the Ford Customer Satisfaction Program 07B49 which replaced the half shaft bolts the kit listed by Ford is kit P/N 4G7Z-4B490-A. This is still an active Ford P/N and I am sure represents the final “CA” revision hardware. Owners certainly can opt for the Accufab bolt kit as Kendall discusses. Both the Ford kit and the Accufab kit both solve the issue. If a downstream failure has occurred after participating in the 07B49 recall, I would opine as others have that possibly only one side of the car got the new bolts. But it is very difficult to look at the old/new bolts and discern any difference.

Hope this helps with background information.

 

[nota4re]

But it is very difficult to look at the old/new bolts and discern any difference.

Oh, but it is VERY easy to discern the bolt difference. The suspect/faulty bolts were Allen-head bolts whereas in the kit that Indy mentions, the new/correct bolts have a hex head as well as a shoulder. The newer, thicker washer is also easy to visually identify as it has recesses for the new hex-headed bolts to go into.

 

[Indy GT]

Thanks Kendall for the clarification! I have not given these bolts much thought since I had the Ford recall performed on my car back in 2007. I do remember one proposed washer was silver and another black with different thicknesses as they tried to focus on washer bending as the root cause.

 

[richardson221]

Thanks for all the help. Need Gt tech in Jacksonville Fla. Know of any?

 

[richardson221]

Dealer called and said that flange bolts are broken. Also said strut on same side is leaking. Anyone familiar with leaking strut? Going by dealer on fri to look and determine if correct bolts used on TSB and view leak.

 

[Xcentric]

Leaky shocks happen. If it's leaking you should replace it. OEM parts are available for reasonable cost (as GT parts go).

There are aftermarket alternatives if you wanted to replace all four.

 

[nota4re]

Please get pic of flange bolts and the washer immediately under them. We can tell you if this was latest-gen fix or not. Get pic of to-be-installed hardware and we can tell you if that's right too. Ask dealer to follow specific torque specs/process!

Regarding the shock, yeah, replace it. Also ask dealership to check the balance of tire on that corner. An unbalanced tire can really play havoc on a shock.

 

[richardson221]

Well, I had the GT hauled to local dealer that has a trained tech. They pulled shafts and I went to check out. Found that the bolts put in on recall were the hex head style but did not have a washer. Also, tech showed me that there was not any thread lock on bolts. They had not broken, but loosened up which I assume caused the oil leakage.

Tech said that although he was trained on Gt, he had never worked on one. I then gave him copies of posts from forum which are extremely good. He had ordered kit per recall and was ready to install. The only bolts he got were the 6 outer housing bolts. Good thing I stopped by or problem would happen again.
He requested the correct part number as given by you guys. Thanks again. I am going back when bolts arrive to make sure they are correct and to leave copies of replacement inst. as have been posted. Hassle, but necessary.

Since there were not washers put in at first replacement and bolts backed out after 2500 miles, do I have a case to convince ford and or the dealer to foot the bill? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mike








again.

 

[MAD IN NC]

Well, I had the GT hauled to local dealer that has a trained tech. They pulled shafts and I went to check out. Found that the bolts put in on recall were the hex head style but did not have a washer. Also, tech showed me that there was not any thread lock on bolts. They had not broken, but loosened up which I assume caused the oil leakage.

Tech said that although he was trained on Gt, he had never worked on one. I then gave him copies of posts from forum which are extremely good. He had ordered kit per recall and was ready to install. The only bolts he got were the 6 outer housing bolts. Good thing I stopped by or problem would happen again.
He requested the correct part number as given by you guys. Thanks again. I am going back when bolts arrive to make sure they are correct and to leave copies of replacement inst. as have been posted. Hassle, but necessary.

Since there were not washers put in at first replacement and bolts backed out after 2500 miles, do I have a case to convince ford and or the dealer to foot the bill? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mike








again.

try it you might but I believe they will claim BS as they never did the original recall work.

If so, I would break into "whine" mode and at least ask for future credit for a free oil change though... since they never ordered the right parts and your car is down for x days, out of your possession, being manhandled by the weekend buyers and all others alike.....

 

[fjpikul]

So who did the first replacement? Anything on the Oasis report? They will not cover it. The original recall letter stated quite clearly that after such and such a date it would not be covered.

 

[richardson221]

Same dealer did original replacement. If in fact wrong kit was sent by ford and improperly installed as stated by Tech., I would think I have a case.

 

[Empty Pockets]

SAME DEALER DID ORIGINAL REPLACEMENT. If in fact wrong kit was sent by ford and improperly installed as stated by Tech., I would think I have a case.

...and you'd be right on both counts IMHO. But, all too often being "right" doesn't transition into being "made whole" w/o a court fight...and at that point you'd need to consult your 'abacus jockey' and your 'calendar' to determine if it's worth your time/effort.

Assuming all the facts are as you've outlined them, in an ideal world Ford ought to pay for/send the proper parts (since Ford obviously screwed up there originally) and the dealer ought to 'spring' for the labor because the tech obviously screwed up the original install. YOU shouldn't have to pay for either of their screwups.

Buuuuuuuut, that's in an ideal world...

 

[richardson221]

Just got car back from dealer. Flange issue resolved. Did not get any concessions from dealer or Ford. Walk away and live with it.
Thanks for all the help
Mike