GT - Long term storage question...
- Thread starter FBA
- Start date
Xcentric
GT Owner
Dolph
GT Owner
The XRs were kind of expensive back in those days. I bought 2 of them in '83, one to put up and the other to ride. I put the racing kit in the "ride one", pipes, pistons, cams, etc. and it scares me !! I paid $6,000 each.
Xcentric
GT Owner
w. mitty
GT Owner
- Sep 1, 2005
- 704
I have been told (by people much smarter than me) that an area of concern is starting the car and not letting it completely warm up. Have you noticed that water drips from the exhaust when you start a car? This moisture is occurring throughout the engine and is being partially captured in the oil. Getting the oil hot burns the water out of it, and also evaporates the water condensing in the exhaust and the other engine components.
I tend to believe this, since with my 427 Cobra, I would often find the tell-tale white cloudiness of water in the oil after it had been stored and started without significant use. After I took it out and beat on it like a rented mule for a for a half hour or so, the cloudiness in the oil disappeared. I've been told that the worst thing you can do to a stored car is start it without letting it get fully warm and then leave it for extended periods of time.
Even though it will put a few miles on it to get it fully warmed up on occasion, those miles will actually be an indication that the car was well cared for. I, personally, am always leery of a car that has sat undriven for years on end.
I tend to believe this, since with my 427 Cobra, I would often find the tell-tale white cloudiness of water in the oil after it had been stored and started without significant use. After I took it out and beat on it like a rented mule for a for a half hour or so, the cloudiness in the oil disappeared. I've been told that the worst thing you can do to a stored car is start it without letting it get fully warm and then leave it for extended periods of time.
Even though it will put a few miles on it to get it fully warmed up on occasion, those miles will actually be an indication that the car was well cared for. I, personally, am always leery of a car that has sat undriven for years on end.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
You need to get the oil up to operating temp and run it for a while. I ran both my Cobra and now the GT for about 15-20 miles every few weeks. The Cobra was a lot harder to get up to temp due to the oil cooler being way too efficient - it took lots of spirited driving (or high RPM, 3rd gear) driving to get the oil temp == water temp on short drives like that.
fjpikul
GT Owner
+1
What a waste of a car ! I'm sure when he passes on his beneficiary will be thrilled!
I'm not saving mine for the next guy!
In reality do what makes you feel good…...
just my 02
KMCBOSS
RED GT owner
Maybe call a car museum - like LeMay in Tacoma. The LeMay museum has thousands of cars with dates ranging from 1900 to 2013.
I did and yesterday got a heap of information back from one...which I am starting to digest now.
Neither am I; that's not the plan, besides I already have one that I drive all the time...
KJD
GT Owner
Trying not to be critical of others when they post about what some do or should with their property.
But it still confounds me when folks, good folks, post about how someone should drive their car more.
Even better, some post that some owners should drive the snot out of their cars, drive it like you stole it, blah, blah, blah.
Really? Who cares what anyone else does with their cars? They own them, they paid for them. Who gives a rat's ass?
Even better, lots of owners have stables with multiple exotics/sports cars like FBA and many others.
As far as I know, you can only drive one at a time. I say live and let live, everyone do their own thing and be happy.
But it still confounds me when folks, good folks, post about how someone should drive their car more.
Even better, some post that some owners should drive the snot out of their cars, drive it like you stole it, blah, blah, blah.
Really? Who cares what anyone else does with their cars? They own them, they paid for them. Who gives a rat's ass?
Even better, lots of owners have stables with multiple exotics/sports cars like FBA and many others.
As far as I know, you can only drive one at a time. I say live and let live, everyone do their own thing and be happy.
Dolph
GT Owner
This came from the president of the Canadian Auto Museum, Jack Innes, who was kind enough to write this to me:
"Hello Steve,
This sounds like an interesting project.
Storage of a late model car presents many problems that are not there with an antique.
There is a tremendous amount of plastic & synthetic material in the car that seems to
have a timed point of self destruction. The electronics also will need preservation
& some degree of ongoing support. I am not conversant enough on the electronic system
to advise you in detail on its preservation. I do know there are systems available that
will supply the current necessary to keep the computer from loosing its memory, some
of these plug in to the cigarette lighter. It might be wise to have a dealer check the current
configuration of your computer since the software relating to a 2005 car will soon be
unavailable. I do not know if the settings could be stored on a disk for future reference
but it would be worth investigating.
It might be wise to order replacement parts for all of the sensors & possibly even a
computer for the car while they are still available. Most of these are very proprietary
to the individual vehicle & could be a major problem to deal with at the end of the 20
year period. These should be sealed in individual containers with desiccant if possible.
The ABS controller would also be a difficult part to service or find years down the road.
It is unwise to start a car in storage unless you are willing to run it up to full operating
temperature. It is much better to turn the engine over a few revolutions every few
months to distribute the oil.
The tires will become unsafe as time goes on & there is very little that will save them. It
probably would be best to maintain the pressure & leave the car on its wheels. Putting it
on stands could put irregular stress on the suspension. AVOID products like Armorall
that contain silicone! These are very destructive to plastic & rubber.
Remove all gasoline & put in a small amount of lower octane, alcohol free aviation gasoline with a stabiliser
added then run the car for at least half an hour to purge as much of the alcohol based fuel
from the injector pumps, etc. Running the system dry may cause seals to dry out over time
& would not be advisable. It might be wise to find a competent marine mechanic with training
on preparing modern fuel injected engines for winter storage. He could advise you on the best
fuel, stabiliser & procedure to use.
The oil should be changed now since it will have developed some acids & condensation. In
static storage it should be changed every few years for safety’s sake.
The ph of the antifreeze can be checked from time to time to see that is has not changed to a
substance dangerous to the aluminum parts of the engine.
The brake fluid should be changed every few years as well since it can absorb water & cause
severe damage. This should be done by someone familiar with the system since it is very
difficult to bleed air from many modern ABS brake systems. ( Rolls Royce suggests changing
the brake fluid once a year on their cars.)
A storage tent such as the one described here would be very good;http://www.carcapsule.com/ .
I add this link as a reference only, I know nothing about this particular company but I have seen
such tents & they look like a good idea. The humidity can be controlled in such a situation. A
constant RH of 40 to 60% is desirable.
I had a very bad experience with a nice soft cloth car cover on my 1927 Rolls Royce. The cover absorbed
moisture from the air over winter & subsequently caused the paint to lift from the top of the hood. A car cover
is not a solution to good storage!
Ultraviolet radiation from sunlight and fluorescent lighting is very destructive & should be avoided.
You mentioned the “wrapper” on the car. If this is the plastic sheeting I have seen stuck to the body
panels of some vehicles in shipping, I would investigate how it is affecting the paint. It is meant
to be used for a very short time & may be destructive over the long term.
As I mentioned earlier, avoid Armorall & compounds containing silicone. In reality, the car sounds to
be as new & should only need dusting & if necessary plain water to keep it clean. Once in a tent it
will not be exposed to dust & should remain clean.
I am sure there are many more things to consider but hopefully this is of some help.
Jack Innes
President, Canadian Automotive Museum"
"Hello Steve,
This sounds like an interesting project.
Storage of a late model car presents many problems that are not there with an antique.
There is a tremendous amount of plastic & synthetic material in the car that seems to
have a timed point of self destruction. The electronics also will need preservation
& some degree of ongoing support. I am not conversant enough on the electronic system
to advise you in detail on its preservation. I do know there are systems available that
will supply the current necessary to keep the computer from loosing its memory, some
of these plug in to the cigarette lighter. It might be wise to have a dealer check the current
configuration of your computer since the software relating to a 2005 car will soon be
unavailable. I do not know if the settings could be stored on a disk for future reference
but it would be worth investigating.
It might be wise to order replacement parts for all of the sensors & possibly even a
computer for the car while they are still available. Most of these are very proprietary
to the individual vehicle & could be a major problem to deal with at the end of the 20
year period. These should be sealed in individual containers with desiccant if possible.
The ABS controller would also be a difficult part to service or find years down the road.
It is unwise to start a car in storage unless you are willing to run it up to full operating
temperature. It is much better to turn the engine over a few revolutions every few
months to distribute the oil.
The tires will become unsafe as time goes on & there is very little that will save them. It
probably would be best to maintain the pressure & leave the car on its wheels. Putting it
on stands could put irregular stress on the suspension. AVOID products like Armorall
that contain silicone! These are very destructive to plastic & rubber.
Remove all gasoline & put in a small amount of lower octane, alcohol free aviation gasoline with a stabiliser
added then run the car for at least half an hour to purge as much of the alcohol based fuel
from the injector pumps, etc. Running the system dry may cause seals to dry out over time
& would not be advisable. It might be wise to find a competent marine mechanic with training
on preparing modern fuel injected engines for winter storage. He could advise you on the best
fuel, stabiliser & procedure to use.
The oil should be changed now since it will have developed some acids & condensation. In
static storage it should be changed every few years for safety’s sake.
The ph of the antifreeze can be checked from time to time to see that is has not changed to a
substance dangerous to the aluminum parts of the engine.
The brake fluid should be changed every few years as well since it can absorb water & cause
severe damage. This should be done by someone familiar with the system since it is very
difficult to bleed air from many modern ABS brake systems. ( Rolls Royce suggests changing
the brake fluid once a year on their cars.)
A storage tent such as the one described here would be very good;http://www.carcapsule.com/ .
I add this link as a reference only, I know nothing about this particular company but I have seen
such tents & they look like a good idea. The humidity can be controlled in such a situation. A
constant RH of 40 to 60% is desirable.
I had a very bad experience with a nice soft cloth car cover on my 1927 Rolls Royce. The cover absorbed
moisture from the air over winter & subsequently caused the paint to lift from the top of the hood. A car cover
is not a solution to good storage!
Ultraviolet radiation from sunlight and fluorescent lighting is very destructive & should be avoided.
You mentioned the “wrapper” on the car. If this is the plastic sheeting I have seen stuck to the body
panels of some vehicles in shipping, I would investigate how it is affecting the paint. It is meant
to be used for a very short time & may be destructive over the long term.
As I mentioned earlier, avoid Armorall & compounds containing silicone. In reality, the car sounds to
be as new & should only need dusting & if necessary plain water to keep it clean. Once in a tent it
will not be exposed to dust & should remain clean.
I am sure there are many more things to consider but hopefully this is of some help.
Jack Innes
President, Canadian Automotive Museum"
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
I agree about electronics. I can totally support restoring a 1965 Mustang or a 300SL Gullwing. Literally, all of the parts to build one from parts are available, so restoring is easy....
On the other hand, how are you going to get your hands on the electronic navigation system and radio from a 2013 Shelby GT500 50 years from now? NFW.....
They are disposable chattel.
On the other hand, how are you going to get your hands on the electronic navigation system and radio from a 2013 Shelby GT500 50 years from now? NFW.....
They are disposable chattel.
Xcentric
GT Owner
Interesting about the car cover. I have never understood the purpose of one indoors. I'd tend to discount the significance of spare ECUs, ABS controllers, etc. Seems to me that solutions to computer problems will be easy 10-20 years from now. Unless some concours judge is awarding points for OEM chips and code!
bonehead
GT Owner
For those of us with a bit more anal-retentiveness, an indoor cover is good protection from getting a newly washed/waxed car from getting dirty before the next drive. Central Valley, as you know, has air quality similar to the inside of a carpet vacuum recepticle. Even under cover of a garage, cars get pretty dirty. This was much more of an issue when my car was black. Still, it's a nice layer of protection as long as it's breathable (see above post regarding moisture).
Another added benefit for me is keeping out prying eyes. My garage has a number of windows letting in natural light that I'd rather not cover up.