Getting the GT ready for winter storage


MNJason

GT Owner
May 14, 2010
2,097
San Diego
I could not find a specific thread on this.

My GT will be put away in about 2 weeks, according with the weather here in MN.

Wondering what the typical things you guys do, and if any are specific to the GT.

I typically:

1) Put in Stabil with full tank of gas
2) Clean car in/out
3) Tires to 50 psi
4) AC on recirculate (to close vents for mice)
5) On battery tender
6) Car cover on (or two)

Anything else I am missing?
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,362
Washington State
I never bothered with any of that (except the 'charger, of course). 'Preferred to go out to the garage periodically & START the car and let it run for a half hour or so with the A/C on. And, if the weather warranted it - take it out for a short putt.
 

MNJason

GT Owner
May 14, 2010
2,097
San Diego
Ive never been a believer in letting the car run in place. I feel if I can't get it at least up to operating temperature that the moisture created might do more harm than good. We get a LOT of humidity here in MN. Also, driving in the winter is almost impossible as the temperature rarely, if ever, gets above 40 degrees which is still about 5 degrees colder than my personal feeling for cold tire driving.
 

Button

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2009
202
Iowa
Put a dyno in your garage. You could get the car up to temperature on the coldest of days and your neighbors would love it!:thumbsup
 

Kayvan

GT Owner
Jul 13, 2006
4,782
You didnt get the Memo from Ford?
 

GTNJ

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 21, 2006
1,611
State of Confusion
i could not find a specific thread on this.

My gt will be put away in about 2 weeks, according with the weather here in mn.

Wondering what the typical things you guys do, and if any are specific to the gt.

I typically:

1) put in stabil with full tank of gas .......................... i don't like that idea !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2) clean car in/out
3) tires to 50 psi ....................................38 psi
4) ac on recirculate (to close vents for mice) .......................................mouse traps out the wazoo.
5) on battery tender
6) car cover on (or two)

anything else i am missing?

mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps mouse traps
 

Kayvan

GT Owner
Jul 13, 2006
4,782
Ford sent out a Letter to original owners in first winter, Soroush framed his.

---------------------------

FORD GT EXTENDED STORAGE RECOMMENDATIONS


At Ford, we fully understand that many Ford GT's will see only occasional Operation and that many of the vehicles, especially in the northern climates, may be stored for an extended period during the winter months. The following are recommendations for extended storage:

Powertrain Items
• Fuel – Fill the fuel tank and add commercially available fuel stabilizer. Run the engine for a minimum of 1 minute to ensure that treated fuel has circulated through the system. Replace the fuel filter every 3 years.
• Oil and filter – Perform the annual oil and oil filter change prior to storing the vehicle. The recommended oil is Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic, part number XO 5W50 QGT. If the vehicle has been stored for longer than 3 years without the engine being started the oil pump drive belt should be replaced.
• Coolant – Replace the engine and intercooler coolant every 3 years. The recommended coolant is Motorcraft part number VC 7A (VC7B for CA, OR, and NM).
• Transaxle fluid – Replace the transaxle fluid every 3 years. The recommended fluid is Motorcraft part number XT 75W-90 QGT.
• Air Filter – Inspect both air filter elements annually, clean and replace as required. Replace them every 3 years.

Chassis Items
• Brake fluid – Check and note fluid level prior to storage and ensure master cylinder reservoir cap is secured. Note and change in fluid level before putting vehicle back into service. If a drop in fluid level is noted, check brake system for leaks.
• Brake pads/rotor rust – If your GT is stored for an extended period of time, rust can form on the brake rotors. Minor surface rust will be removed after a few hard stops. During this period, a minor squealing noise may be heard. This noise will go away after the rust is removed. NOTE: Be sure to allow sufficient time (number of stops) to remove all embedded rust on pad surface as well as rotors.
• Tires – To reduce flat-spotting of the tires, inflate all four tires to the maximum inflation pressure noted on the sidewall of the tire (44 psi). When the vehicle is taken out of storage, reset pressures to the recommended levels stated in the owner's guide. Alternately, the vehicle may be stored on jack stands to eliminate any potential for flat spotting.

Electrical Items
• Battery – to maintain battery voltage when the vehicle will be stored for an extended time, ensure that the trickle charger, part number 4G7Z-14B249-A is used.

Body Items
Door Hinges and locks – Check and lubricate all hinges, latches, and outside locks.

• Paint – Apply Motorcraft Paint Sealant (ZC-45) and Motorcraft Liquid Wax (ZC-53A). Cover the vehicle with the car cover to protect the finish. For additional information refer to the Cleaning section of the Owner Guide.
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,362
Washington State
Ive never been a believer in letting the car run in place. I feel if I can't get it at least up to operating temperature that the moisture created might do more harm than good. We get a LOT of humidity here in MN. Also, driving in the winter is almost impossible as the temperature rarely, if ever, gets above 40 degrees which is still about 5 degrees colder than my personal feeling for cold tire driving.

If the GT doesn't get up to operating temp with 1/2 hr - sumptin's wrong! Especially if it's kept in a heated garage (mine is). I'm assuming you're also referring to the tranny temps? If so, putting the car on SECURE jack stands bypasses that problem, as the car could then idle in whatever gear you wanted. But, no matter what you do, moisture is going to form as things cool down anyway (Eg: look at the water that spits out the tailpipe(s) of any car shortly after a cold start).

The temps here in the DEAD of winter hover around mid 30's to low 40's...and, like you, I never took the car out when that was the case either. But, that only lasts for a total of about 2 months off 'n' on anyway. 'Just went with the 1/2 hr idle once a month or so when that was the case.

'Just my $.02 ... and worth every penny. :cheers
 

STORMCAT

GT
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 25, 2006
7,580
Ft. Lauderdale
Ive never been a believer in letting the car run in place. I feel if I can't get it at least up to operating temperature that the moisture created might do more harm than good. We get a LOT of humidity here in MN. Also, driving in the winter is almost impossible as the temperature rarely, if ever, gets above 40 degrees which is still about 5 degrees colder than my personal feeling for cold tire driving.

The key is to let the car warm up enough to drive out the moisture. By running the car you circulate the oil to all the seals and renew lubrication to all required metallic parts.
That same humid air is always present. It will migrate through the intake and exhaust and can cause oxidation and seize parts ( Rings to sleeves etc.. ) if it sits for an extended period of time. Trust me it is far worse to let these motors sit than to start them occasionally replenish the protective lubrication. Living in Florida you can learn this first hand in a very short period of time. :biggrin
 

jim gibson

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Dec 13, 2009
199
warren, ohio
How often should you change the Motorcraft engine oil if you only drive 800 to 900 miles a year. Mine has been changed twice in 4 years.
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,362
Washington State
How often should you change the Motorcraft engine oil if you only drive 800 to 900 miles a year. Mine has been changed twice in 4 years.

Personally, I'd change it once a year regardless of those low miles.

'Cheap insurance.
 

Nardo GT

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2006
2,300
Texas
Personally, I'd change it once a year regardless of those low miles.

'Cheap insurance.

I have about 15 cars in storage that get very little use. My storage method.

1. Fill tank & drive car into storage. (never used Stabil)
2. Try and remember car is there after a few months. If you do remember, then maybe charge the battery overnight on 2amps. Starting it after just to see if it still runs (they always have in my 35+ yrs of storage experience. Driving it a few miles is even better. I've never constant trickle charged or put on blocks. What goes up must come down...hassle. Check low tires at this point.
3. Once or twice a year drive the car about 30 miles. Oil has been in most of my "storage cars" for years.

Works for me. If it ain't broke , don't fix it.
 

AtomicGT

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Apr 12, 2006
3,033
Los Angeles
Save al the hassle and move to Arizona or Southern California!
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,362
Washington State
& bring water, LOTS of tax money, ammo, BIG fire extinguisher, smog/gas mask, brush up on your Spanish, Korean, Chinese etc., load up on earthquake ins, don't start a business, ........


Uuuuuh...wouldn't doing all that be far MORE hassle? :shrug :willy
 

Jason's Auto Spa

Well-known member
May 22, 2007
1,272
IL & AZ
These have been real popular for preventing flat spots, Race Ramps Flat Stoppers. They cradle the tire and distribute the weight over a larger surface. I sell them and could put together a group buy if there is any interest. Does anyone have them and use them for the GT? Would just want to make sure it cradles the tire well, I don't have a GT here to test my set on.

flatstoppers_1.jpg
 

SteveA

GT Owner/B.O.D
Mark IV Lifetime
Dec 13, 2005
3,700
Sandpoint Id
[QUOTE=Kayvan;252226



PM sent. :)
 
Last edited:

jim gibson

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Dec 13, 2009
199
warren, ohio
Has anyone tried to suck the oil out of their car with a suctioning tool? Can you get it all out?
 

shelbyelite

PERMANENTLY BANNED
May 10, 2007
1
No, you can not get it all out that way. I do not suggest doing it that way.
 

PL510*Jeff

Well-known member
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Nov 3, 2005
4,901
Renton, Washington
Has anyone tried to suck the oil out of their car with a suctioning tool? Can you get it all out?

even in a "normal" oil change, it isn't possible to get it all out of the system. I doubt a suction device will not be able to get it all out either.
 

MTV8

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 24, 2010
1,021
Houston Texas
Has anyone tried to suck the oil out of their car with a suctioning tool? Can you get it all out?

I have used one to remove excess oil. It is a very slow process for what you can get.