Fubar's GT Build
- Thread starter Fubar
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
I'll post up some pictures when I get them. The waternecks (for the engine coolant) are just coming off of the machine and then the intercooler stuff starts going together. Unfortunately the intercooler will not be billet for several reasons, time, money and visibility (it will all be tucked away and covered with inconel shielding). I'll take some pictures because I know you guys can appreciate the hidden coolness of it all but the goal is a stealthy build. A lot of this has not been done before so it will either be really super awesome or really super not-awesome; either way I will keep progress up-to-date on here.
I wanted to post up a few of the nick-nacks that have been coming in. For those of you that are following along this build, I know you will find it interesting.
The ring plate adaptor. Shawn went with 4140 steel, the added expense was minimal and it gave us plenty of extra strength. Basically keeping with the philosophy of 'why half-*** what you can overdo!" You can see it in this picture along with the phenolic spacer that he made for the throw out bearing. The new clutch is a good deal smaller than the original so the spacer was needed. The use of thermal inhibiting material should help separate the throwout bearing from the transmission heat.
Here is the heart of the beast with focus on the new motor mount we built to accommodate the fuel pump and related hardware.
The ATI damper and Accufab tensioner are among a few item you can see from here.
My helpful daughter, and self appointed hand model for this photo, holding the pulley for the new Whipple. This pulley is 4.5" and should produce 30-35lbs of boost.
We had to bump the ability to cool the charged air so we are introducing a second intercooler. When installed, I will challenge you to find these. Here is a picture with the two new Garrett 1000hp intercoolers next to the old stock unit.
The ring plate adaptor. Shawn went with 4140 steel, the added expense was minimal and it gave us plenty of extra strength. Basically keeping with the philosophy of 'why half-*** what you can overdo!" You can see it in this picture along with the phenolic spacer that he made for the throw out bearing. The new clutch is a good deal smaller than the original so the spacer was needed. The use of thermal inhibiting material should help separate the throwout bearing from the transmission heat.
Here is the heart of the beast with focus on the new motor mount we built to accommodate the fuel pump and related hardware.
The ATI damper and Accufab tensioner are among a few item you can see from here.
My helpful daughter, and self appointed hand model for this photo, holding the pulley for the new Whipple. This pulley is 4.5" and should produce 30-35lbs of boost.
We had to bump the ability to cool the charged air so we are introducing a second intercooler. When installed, I will challenge you to find these. Here is a picture with the two new Garrett 1000hp intercoolers next to the old stock unit.
Last edited:
And this was a big surprise to me, my tuner Shawn Fischer is pretty well connected with the guys at MoTeC development. He managed to get their new M150 ECU. It's MoTeC's 'new generation' product. Most of the things it can do are over my head but it is supposedly better at everything and even more customizable. This M150 has not been released for retail sale so this is considered a beta. That's pretty damn cool. Here is a picture of the new ECU at its new resting point, along side a few other management modules.
2112
Blue/white 06'
Sinovac
GT Owner
I'm surprised the Tilton clutch looses that much height over OEM. I understand Tilton clutches are the gold standard. How much weight do you expect to save with the new clutch and flywheel?
Actually stayed with a heavy steel flywheel, we were concerned with to little rotating mass at idle. The new clutch is 20lbs lighter than the stilen. I didn't have a stock clutch to compare it too.
Sinovac
GT Owner
I’ve got a few more… these are really just mock up of the stuff that has already arrived. You can see where we added bigger stud bolts from the engine block. It was an easy way to add strength to the over all project. In these pictures were really just double checking that all of the new stuff fit in its place without obvious conflicts. We also port matched the intake.
Here you can see where we punched out the rear coolant port. Hopefully the engine responds well to a more even flow of coolant across the block.
Here are the Whipple part with the clutch (and new ring plate) in the back ground. It’s all coming together.
Here are the Whipple part with the clutch (and new ring plate) in the back ground. It’s all coming together.
I don't remember seeing a discussion on the transmission mount here but it is worth some thought. Ford used an injection molded rubber mount for the transmission and motor. It is a good piece that offers good noise and vibration insulation. It is very durable at standard power levels but it will likely become a quick wear item at higher power levels. I have found some more durable parts, of course the trade off is additional vibration to the driver. That can be good or bad, depending on how much you want to 'feel' the engine response. I'll have some more information to add to this in a few days but I thought it might be a good time to hear any input/experience others might have on this subject.
Some discussion on the subject...
Keep in mind the motor and trans mounts in a mid engine car with the transaxel direct coupled to the engine, the mounts do not see the torsional loads that front engine cars see. Other than vibration, almost all of the load on the engine mounts is tension when the car launches. IE the torque applied to the rear wheels tries to lift the engine. Since the drive axles carry no suspension load, there is almost no side loading on the trans mount.
Keep in mind the motor and trans mounts in a mid engine car with the transaxel direct coupled to the engine, the mounts do not see the torsional loads that front engine cars see. Other than vibration, almost all of the load on the engine mounts is tension when the car launches. IE the torque applied to the rear wheels tries to lift the engine. Since the drive axles carry no suspension load, there is almost no side loading on the trans mount.
The motor mounts on my car looked fine, however the trans mount showed visible signs of wear. It appeared as the the rubber was being cut at its attachment to the frame. I will try to get some pictures. My car has historically made around 750-800 who, so it load would be considerably more than a stock motor. Although my car may be consider 'high millage' by some, at just 28k miles, I don't think its excessive. Has anyone used a different material for these mounts?
2112
Blue/white 06'
Oh yeah, the clamshell wasn't ever an issue. The rear window glass (drivers compartment) was a much tighter issue. Whipple wanted an 1" so you could get a tool in there to change the pully. All we have is 1" of clearance there but the engine torques backward so that isn't a big deal from a working stand point. It just means you will have to lift the SC to change the pully but how many times does anyone swap their pully, really?
The SC is polished in these pix but it will be painted with a crinkle coat black when its installed. It should all be very low bling, very Big Bang!
The SC is polished in these pix but it will be painted with a crinkle coat black when its installed. It should all be very low bling, very Big Bang!
Last edited:
New clutch, flywheel, ring gear... uber badassness. Such a crime that this will all be hidden from view.
