GTdrummer
GT Owner
I use my 2 lifts for simple stuff like oil changes AND to store cars. You can't really (or should not ) store a car on a 2 post.
Four post Lift
- Thread starter AJB
- Start date
My beef with two-post lifts is the time and energy to get the car on to them - especially a low car like the GT. One of the biggest reasons for a lift, IMO, is to eliminate the time crawling around on your hands and knees - yet that's exactly what you have to do EACH time you want to get a car on a 2-post. Admittedly, there's typically more access underneath and there's some operations as Clinton notes that may be easier on a 2-post. But with the GT - I have NEVER wished for a 2-post. The transaxle and engine both come out from the top and are relatively easy at that!! But driving on (once you've set up your ramp configuration ONE TIME) is a piece of cake. Then you can lift the car 6 feet in the air. Need to lift one end or another of the car to change a wheel or brake? Childs play. Just position the jack bridge EXACTLY where you want to while the lift is up, then lower the lift to a convenient work height.
Like many others, I lost a few nights sleep debating between a 2-post and a 4-post.... but went with 4-post and I've just never, ever regretted it!
Like many others, I lost a few nights sleep debating between a 2-post and a 4-post.... but went with 4-post and I've just never, ever regretted it!
Wwabbit
GT Owner
BlackICE
GT Owner
steved57
GT Owner
GTdrummer
GT Owner
True enough . But the other reason is a lot of things hang that should not ( like an older woman) Storing cars leads to suspension and other issues.
jim gibson
GT Owner
I love my Backyard Buddy. It's made in Warren, Ohio. They will come and install it, one of the helpers will be my neice.
Thanks as usual to everyone for the great input and advice.:
Summary:
I will get a 4 post, with the rolling jack bridge (or two) , the long ramps in aluminum as a minimum. I plan to have it installed by a professional.
I will most likely store the 2005 T-Bird on the lift and use the lift for work on the FordGT and the 2011 Shelby Mustang.
A 1991 Mercedes will store under the T-Bird.
Will all these vehicles fit on the same ramps / tracks?
AJB (andy)
Summary:
I will get a 4 post, with the rolling jack bridge (or two) , the long ramps in aluminum as a minimum. I plan to have it installed by a professional.
I will most likely store the 2005 T-Bird on the lift and use the lift for work on the FordGT and the 2011 Shelby Mustang.
A 1991 Mercedes will store under the T-Bird.
Will all these vehicles fit on the same ramps / tracks?
AJB (andy)
Wwabbit
GT Owner
I've got a Direct Lift 9K lb unit that is extra wide and extra long. Can easily lift either a diesel Excursion or H1 Hummer no problem. It is a identical to the Revolution lift of the same part number (made by the same parent company) but about $1200.00 less money. I bought it 3 years ago and really can't imagine not having a lift, especially for a car that is low to the ground...makes servicing so effortless. I probably use it more for detailing the car than anything else since I can work at chest level and clean the wheel barrels from the back side of the rim when the car is over my head.
Here are a couple of things to watch out for. My friend just bought 2 Bendpak 4 post lifts and they work great, but the runways have this very course gritty stuff on it (assuming its to keep the car from sliding off the lift, lol). Problem is they will scrap your skin off if you rub the back of your hand or knuckle on them. I always store tools on the runways while working on my vehicles and the gritty surface sucks!! If you get the air operated release system, be very careful when lowering the car since the pins my not release all the way and you'll end up with a kinked lift and the car tilted in a very dangerous position. This can happen with any 4 post lift, it really is important to watch the lift go down to make sure all the pins unlocked. Don't just start lowering the car without verifying that the lift is coming down level on all four corners.
I didn't go for the center jack option since in can only be used on the 4 post lift. I went with 4 lightweight screw scissor jacks that fit under a very low car on my side sill jack lifting points. Using a high torque rechargeable drill and a socket, I can position all four scissor jacks on the runways under my jack points and lift the car in about 6 minutes flat. The advantage to this setup is you can also use these jacks on the ground or at the track if you need to either get the side of the vehicle up, the front or rear axles or all four tires off the ground. I've used this set up for both our track Mustang GT and a very low Dodge Viper and it works great. These scissor jacks are made by Torin and readily available at Walmart for about $22.00 each. Obviously made in China but they've been working great for the last two years I've had them. I always use additional jack stands if leaving the car up on the scissor jacks for added safety, etc.
Enjoy your new lift.
Cheers,
George
Here are a couple of things to watch out for. My friend just bought 2 Bendpak 4 post lifts and they work great, but the runways have this very course gritty stuff on it (assuming its to keep the car from sliding off the lift, lol). Problem is they will scrap your skin off if you rub the back of your hand or knuckle on them. I always store tools on the runways while working on my vehicles and the gritty surface sucks!! If you get the air operated release system, be very careful when lowering the car since the pins my not release all the way and you'll end up with a kinked lift and the car tilted in a very dangerous position. This can happen with any 4 post lift, it really is important to watch the lift go down to make sure all the pins unlocked. Don't just start lowering the car without verifying that the lift is coming down level on all four corners.
I didn't go for the center jack option since in can only be used on the 4 post lift. I went with 4 lightweight screw scissor jacks that fit under a very low car on my side sill jack lifting points. Using a high torque rechargeable drill and a socket, I can position all four scissor jacks on the runways under my jack points and lift the car in about 6 minutes flat. The advantage to this setup is you can also use these jacks on the ground or at the track if you need to either get the side of the vehicle up, the front or rear axles or all four tires off the ground. I've used this set up for both our track Mustang GT and a very low Dodge Viper and it works great. These scissor jacks are made by Torin and readily available at Walmart for about $22.00 each. Obviously made in China but they've been working great for the last two years I've had them. I always use additional jack stands if leaving the car up on the scissor jacks for added safety, etc.
Enjoy your new lift.
Cheers,
George
FBA
GT Owner
I am guessing that you go the Pro Park 9 plus? I have both the 8 plus and the 8. I really like the product. Have had my 8 plus for 4 years with zero issue, except that the ramp finish is rusting and corroding a bit, but it has served me very well over the years!
FBA,
Yes, it is a Pro Park 9 Plus. So fare I'm very happy with it. Originally I wanted the larger size to store the Viper on top and the H1 below because I was space limited. Now I'm in a larger facility so space is no longer an issue and we use the lift for storing the Viper and servicing all the vehicles. Although I haven't gotten any type of corrosion, the all steel ramps are damn heavy and could be a little longer for slammed vehicles. I'm going to measure a set of the Race Ramp versions for the 4 post lift and might go that route just so I'm not lifting those heavy steel ramps.
For those that might have to someday move their 4 post lift, I've moved mine and my friends Bendpak. There is not much to putting these lifts together when new since there is no hydraulic fluid in the system. But once used, you have to cap everything off to avoid spills, drips, etc....PITA.
I built a wood jig out of 2"x12" lumber and some 2"x4" runners. I bolted the lift to this base, strapped the runways to the base and then lifted each side of the lift with two forklifts. You can then back a flatbed trailer (has to be flatbed design, bed over the tires) under the lift and set the entire lift on it. For this to work you have to have two forklifts available and a flatbed trailer. You might be able to get creative with other types of lifting apparatus, but the forklifts made it a 5 minute job. It looked Okie as hell, but it took less than an hour to bolt it to the wood base and load it on the trailer and only about 20 minutes to unload and have the lift operational.
Cheers,
George
Yes, it is a Pro Park 9 Plus. So fare I'm very happy with it. Originally I wanted the larger size to store the Viper on top and the H1 below because I was space limited. Now I'm in a larger facility so space is no longer an issue and we use the lift for storing the Viper and servicing all the vehicles. Although I haven't gotten any type of corrosion, the all steel ramps are damn heavy and could be a little longer for slammed vehicles. I'm going to measure a set of the Race Ramp versions for the 4 post lift and might go that route just so I'm not lifting those heavy steel ramps.
For those that might have to someday move their 4 post lift, I've moved mine and my friends Bendpak. There is not much to putting these lifts together when new since there is no hydraulic fluid in the system. But once used, you have to cap everything off to avoid spills, drips, etc....PITA.
I built a wood jig out of 2"x12" lumber and some 2"x4" runners. I bolted the lift to this base, strapped the runways to the base and then lifted each side of the lift with two forklifts. You can then back a flatbed trailer (has to be flatbed design, bed over the tires) under the lift and set the entire lift on it. For this to work you have to have two forklifts available and a flatbed trailer. You might be able to get creative with other types of lifting apparatus, but the forklifts made it a 5 minute job. It looked Okie as hell, but it took less than an hour to bolt it to the wood base and load it on the trailer and only about 20 minutes to unload and have the lift operational.
Cheers,
George
NJF
GT Owner
I have a Rotary 4 post lift and it works great. Can drive the GT on and off using the standard ramps that came with it. Has the caster kit so it can be moved around fairly easily by one person. It is not bolted to the floor and it very stable.
Wwabbit
GT Owner
I've noticed a few different types of rolling bridge jacks on the various manufacturer's products. From a simple beam where you can position a standard bottle jack where you want it, which seems pretty straight forward, to a large scissor jack assembly that looks like it might be a bit in the way for some operations. What have you 4-post guys been using? And it seems like a single rolling jack beam would be enough, just getting one end up at a time? I have a large garage with doors in various places, so I like the idea of casters, so it can be repositioned from time to time.
Cobraguy
GT Owner
heavy ramps
I too got tired of lifting the ramps off at the 6' level.....replaced them with aluminum ramps I made out of 3/16 checker plate which are now longer (for the slammed units) and about 1/4 the weight. Do it ....you will never regret it.
I too got tired of lifting the ramps off at the 6' level.....replaced them with aluminum ramps I made out of 3/16 checker plate which are now longer (for the slammed units) and about 1/4 the weight. Do it ....you will never regret it.
Rolling scissor jack, aka, "rolling jack bridge" is what we have and love. No, it doesn't get in the way. Just glide it to one end or the other if you want to move it out of your way. Thought about two of them - but we really only work on one end of the car at a time. Also purchased the simple beam for a bottle jack (inexpensive). We have used this on a couple of occasions along with the jack bridge.
Wwabbit
GT Owner
Wwabbit
GT Owner
According to the specs for most 4-post lifts, they don't go high enough for a GT parked underneath to fully raise the clamshell. Anybody know differently?
edit-- maybe I misread the specs, looks like the clamshell needs abt 75".
edit-- maybe I misread the specs, looks like the clamshell needs abt 75".
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MAD IN NC
Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
I park the FGT below the Mach 1 on my lift. Problem is the beam in the garage is 10 1/2 ft. limiting me in many ways. If I have to get under the clamshell - i pull the car out... One time I was thinking about the scissor doors conversion but I figured I couldnt open them when the FGT is down below - and the FGT is the preffered car to drive!