Dead battery

[gtforme]

I know this topic has be beaten to death on the forum and i am not even sure if this is the right place to post it , but i know by posting it here it will get looked at a lot

I went out to start of my GT for its once a month start and for the first time in 2 years the battery was dead even though I had the OEM battery tender hooked up , I then pulled out the battery cover , trunck liner and through a quick charge battery charger on her for 10 minutes and she fired right up

What I was wondering is

1. Dose this mean my battery is history and the tender has done everything it can do
2. does this mean that maybe the tender is done and the battery is OK
3. can i do any harm to the cars electronics by putting a quick charger on the battery , everything seems to be working fine
4. How long do you have to run the car to get the altenator to give a good charge on the battery
5. What is the best battery to get if my OEM one is done

Thanks and Sorry for all questions

 

[BlackICE]

This opinion is purely based on superstition and has no bases in fact.

1. I would assume that the battery tender is broken.
2. I would get a new FRESH battery ASAP.
3. I would only jump the car in an emergency.
4. That is because gauges cost a lot more than batteries and are harder to replace!

 

[FBA]

1) Use a portable power pack (gel battery) to jump it; you can never harm the electronics that way.
2) A once a month start during winter probably does more harm than good, as the oil's all at the bottom of the engine by the time a months has passed since the last start.
3) You can easily verify the tender by checking out put voltage while charging, or output current for that matter.
4) In case you ever thought about it - I would never use a tow truck jump start - they have been known to destroy electronics.
5) A half hour highway sprint is all you need to give the battery an adequate charge!

 

[RALPHIE]

2) A once a month start during winter probably does more harm than good, as the oil's all at the bottom of the engine by the time a months has passed since the last start.

Guess you're not very familiar with dry sump engines...

 

[gtforme]

Ralphie

Are you saying that starting the car once a month is Ok or not Ok based on the dry sump

 

[FBA]

Guess you're not very familiar with dry sump engines...

I had forgotten about that, however, am I to understand that the engine still has its lubricity intact even a month after it's last start? I get the dry sump, but when the oil has drained out of the engine for the most part, and you go to start the vehicle, I'd think you still have the same dry parts issue until the oil starts to circulate, same as in a wet sump engine. My original point was that when you leave an engine sitting for some time, the oil drains down into the pan (or in this case, up into the reservoir) and starting the car means it will run a few cycles until the oil has started lubricating, which is why I say engine wear becomes an issue. That's what I have always thought, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[RALPHIE]

Ralphie

Are you saying that starting the car once a month is Ok or not Ok based on the dry sump

I try to start my GT once a month - using the priming procedure to fill the oil channels and then running the engine until it reaches 200° F or higher (takes about 20-25 minutes) to reduce condensates. I then turn on the AC (to start the radiator fans) and bring the temp back down to 165-170° F. If it is raised on stands, I also will run it in gear for a portion of the time to keep all the seals wet in the transaxle, but not enough to add any significant mileage to the vehicle. It is important to have the engine reach it's normal operating temperature and run there for 5-10 minutes.

My GT goes into hibernation at the beginning of November, and doesn't wake up until late May. It stays charged with one of Kendall's float chargers, and has 47,000 miles, accumulated in the 5 summer months of the last 4 years (2007-2010).

 

[Lorenzo]

Ralphie

Are you saying that starting the car once a month is Ok or not Ok based on the dry sump

FBA. I think Ralphie is refering to the fact that A dry sump type oiling system dosent store it's oil in a pan under the crankshaft like a conventional type system.
On a dry sump the rotary spur oil pump force feeds oil under pressure to the
Crankshaft mains.
crankshaft thrust bearings.
connecting rod bearings.
and oil galleries.
All other parts are lubricated by splash.
The oil pump is located externaly on the side of the block and driven by a belt off the crankshaft.
Our engine's oil pan is just a collection point for the oil pump rather then a place to store the oil so if you remove the 2 drain plug's on the pan you wont get much out of it due to the fact that it's all being held in the tank behind the passenger seat.
When the oil has been drained during service the procedure for primeing the system by cycling the starter motor for 20 seconds or so while holding the throttle in the wide open position should be followed. The engine wont start as long as you keep it in the wide open position.
The reason for doing this is simply because the oil pump has a screen and pick up tube within the oil pan in it's lowest collection point and untill the motor has been cycled after an oil change there is nothing for the pump to scavenge so the enging would in fact start and run without oil pressure for the first few seconds. Note: the only time that happens is after an oil change. once the engine has ran with oil pressure there will always be a small amount of oil sitting in the pan keeping the oil pump screen and pickup tupe submerged and ready to supply oil pressure.
Now having said that there are several schools of thought about starting or not starting the car during storage.
One is to change the oil before it goes into storage so there is fresh oil in the system rather then used oil that might contain contaminates, moisture and acids. Literally change the oil and prime it but not start it.
The other is to start it frequently during the storage season.

 

[FBA]

I guess I'm more old school; having many vehicles that sit stored in winter here, due to the 6 months of snow, I've always been of the opinion that it's simply better to just let them sit on a float charger, or with a disconnected battery, without starting and dealing with those 1st few seconds of dry running, where I feel that most engine wear occurs. To each his own I guess...

Question though - does the priming procedure you describe above actually get the motor oiled quicker than simply starting her up? Is that procedure what you'd recommend when the car's been stored all winter before staring it in spring?

 

[soroush]

yes it is also the procedure to follow after the oil has been changed, it is described in the manual.

as for the battery, it has been my experience that OPTIMA BATTERIES just SUCK! especially if allowed to be discharged!
Im going throught the same thing with mine, it is dead and wont take a charge very well,

 

[gtforme]

I think i will probably have a new battery put in just to be sure

Can someone chime in and tell me what the best battery is for our GTs based on experience , I think I remember hearing something here about a SEARS die hard battery

 

[Lorenzo]

Question though - does the priming procedure you describe above actually get the motor oiled quicker than simply starting her up? Is that procedure what you'd recommend when the car's been stored all winter before staring it in spring?[/QUOTE]

After an oil change, absolutly!!! The revolutions are much slower and there is no combustion.
Technically, after the first primeing there will always be some oil in the pick up tube area of the pan. If there has been one day or one year between starting the motor that oil will remain.
Of course no harm would be done if you deciede to prime it again after a long storage.

 

[Lorenzo]

I think i will probably have a new battery put in just to be sure

Can someone chime in and tell me what the best battery is for our GTs based on experience , I think I remember hearing something here about a SEARS die hard battery

OMG thats kind of like asking Blonde Brunet or Red head. I replaced my perfectally good 5 year old OEM with another one from Ford.

Ok now the can of worms is wide open.

 

[FBA]

After an oil change, absolutly!!! The revolutions are much slower and there is no combustion.
Technically, after the first primeing there will always be some oil in the pick up tube area of the pan. If there has been one day or one year between starting the motor that oil will remain.
Of course no harm would be done if you deciede to prime it again after a long storage.

Thanks for the heads up. Just curious, does the manual explain this? Like most of you, I'm a guy and we all know what guys do with manuals -- LOL I've never read any of mine through all the years, unless I just couldn't find what I'd been looking for -

 

[nota4re]

Note: the only time that happens is after an oil change. once the engine has ran with oil pressure there will always be a small amount of oil sitting in the pan keeping the oil pump screen and pickup tupe submerged and ready to supply oil pressure.

Our experience is that the longer a GT sits, the longer it will take to get oil pressure when started. If the car sits for 3 weeks, for example, it takes about 30 seconds of (prime) cranking to get pressure.

It is ALWAYS better to get oil pressure via cranking (without firing loads) than to start the car, IMO.

 

[FBA]

And you can see the oil pressure via the gauge?

 

[fjpikul]

Yes. Do a search here. The procedure is described in length here in several threads.

 

[Indy GT]

Question though - does the priming procedure you describe above actually get the motor oiled quicker than simply starting her up? Is that procedure what you'd recommend when the car's been stored all winter before staring it in spring?

Yes! and Yes!

Go read the thread below and replace your OE Optima battery. Avoid jump starting the car. Gauge(s) are ALOT more expensive to replace than a battery.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?21718-Platinum-Diehard-battery-for-the-FGT

 

[1931imperial]

How do u start ngt when battery fob is dead

 

[1931imperial]

How do u start ngt when battery fob is dead