Clutch Fluid Change and Reccomendation

[GTMikey]

While racing at open track this weekend my clutch pedal went down. Thanks to a phone conversation with dennis I learned how to bleed the clutch and it popped right back up. The fluid was dirty and needs to be changed. Does anyone use higher temperature stuff or have any input on the clutch type and fluid they may have upgraded too?? Clutch is fine juts curious as I plan to do more open track events.

 

[Specracer]

I use super blue, and bleed it when I bleed brakes. Everyone will also chime in on what they use. I like the super blue, as it will tell you (color change) when you have fully changed the system. There is also a "gold" colored version if you want the same indication, going away from blue.

http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/brakes/brake-fluid/ate-brake-fluid

 

[Waldo]

I use super blue, and bleed it when I bleed brakes.

Same here.

 

[nota4re]

Many good fluids out there better than OEM for high temp. We use the Motul 600. Bleeding is straightforward by using the bleed nipple at the transaxle (lean over passenger side rear wheel.) Running a transaxle cooler?

 

[jcthorne]

A long term maintainance tip I learned a few years ago on these hydraulic clutch systems. The volume contained in the hard line between master cylinder and slave cylinder is less than the volume of a full pedal stroke. What this means is that the simple act of replacing the dirty fluid in the reservoir on a regular basis will keep the fluid flushed and clean without the headaches of air entrapment/bleeding. Its a simple 5 minute task that can be done each oil change and will keep the fluid fresh for the long term. Will not help if the current fluid is contaminated but can keep the system well maintained easliy.

I use Ford/Motorcraft DOT 4 fluid which I keep on hand for other uses.