Cleaning the IAC valve

[550rwhp]

Hello Forum!

Does anyone know the best cleaning solvent to clean the IAC valve?

I know it's as simple as:

1. disconnect the negative from battery
2. remove clip on IAC valve
3. remove the two bolts securing the valve to TB
4. spray with cleaner and let dry
5. reinstall

Is this process correct? Did I miss anything?

What should I use to clean it?

Thanks Forum.

 

[Art138]

If at the throttle body held by two phillips screws that is the throttle position sensor. I do not believe you need to disconnect the negative ground from the battery....just disconnect the plug at the valve. Use 3m anti-static electronic cleaner.

 

[jcthorne]

CRC or Berryman throttle body cleaner. If you are cleaning it removed from the car, carb cleaner works fine too as it will have long dried before reinstall and cannot effect o2 sensors.

 

[paul b]

Was there a reason you're cleaning the valve, or just a maintenance procedure.

 

[550rwhp]

About three weeks ago the car was dyno tuned by Torrie, who did a great job and got me to 820 at the wheels on pump gas and low boost. I drove the car last weekend for about 45 minutes and no problem. Shut it down to get coffeee and stalled when I started it and every time I stopped. Nothing changed since the tune and drove it for 100 miles since the tune.

Torrie had me adjust the TB screw (I have no mechanical skills here at all, so excuse my terminology) and no more stalling. I want to clean the IAC to make sure that wasn't the problem.

We are both trying to figure out why after the tune it was stalling and why the TB screw adjustment worked.

 

[paul b]

Just a thought, check that the air cleaner elements didn't get sucked in.

 

[fjpikul]

Make sure you're not throwing a code for the fuel filler.

 

[Fubar]

Are you wanting to clean the throttle body or the MAF sensor or the throttle position sensor? I doubt you will get any results from doing anything in there expect the MAF unit, which has be know to get oil on it (specifically when used with K&N that are over oiled). I'd stilled say there isn't a big chance of that but I would mess with the throttle body unless you just want play in garage (which I can appreciate). If you can still reproduce the issue, maybe I could check it out.

Also, if you are interested in going to the track with your new hot-rod there is an open event at Eagles Canyon this weekend. I plan on going in the Aston. I will be slow as Christmas but that wont keep me from have fun.

 

[550rwhp]

Hey Fubar, I started it up today and it worked great. I will have to drive it a bit an shut it down and see what happens when I restart. Can't make the event this weekend, but may give you a call and see how it was. I will clean out the IAC with the CRC throttle body cleaner I just bought that jcthorne suggested. Hope that works, if not we can brain storm next time we get together. Be safe this weekend.

 

[tmcphail]

There are only two main physical airflow items in control of idle, the actual throttle body blade angle and the IAC valve. Generally when I run into a situation where you have everything fine one day to problems the next its something physical at the root instead of a calibration related issue because the calibration itself doesn't change unless someone changes it. That leaves the TB or IAC. I had Jack initially increase TB stop blade angle to add more air to it and that seems to have solved it. IAC valves over time can get gummed up so cleaning it internally with a solvent also helps.