Ceramic Pro protective paint coatings

[stumeat]

Does anyone have experience/results form using Ceramic Pro nano coating for paint correction. I have black 05 which needs attention. I have seen the results on a friends car. Pretty amazing. Strong claims from company too.

 

[roketman]

I just put on my GT2 which has a full expel clear film wrap on it.The results are impressive.Interesting how water just sheets off it.I have also noticed the car seems to stay clean longer.

 

[2112]

How do you find dealer/installers in your region?

I only see Europe listed;

http://ceramic-pro.com/partners/

Or are you doing it yourself??

 

[stumeat]

I was referred by a friend and a certified Ceramic pro installer (below) located in Alabama contacted me. Apparently they have several in the states. It is not something I would attempt to apply myself.

Ross Mixon
(205)-873-5214
Mixon Custom Detailing, LLC
Montevallo, Al 35115

 

[TO AWSUM]

Nanotechnology is awesome. Once applied to any surface, foreign bodies just roll off. Would seem like a great solution to keep brake dust off our wheels, etc.

 

[TO AWSUM]

Here's a YouTube video about nanotechnology coatings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE

 

[2112]

Here's a YouTube video about nanotechnology coatings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE

I remember that being posted up here a few years ago.

Looks like the automotive variant may be from a different company?

 

[OTG]

I was just going to inquire about ceramic coatings as well. I just bought a black car and want to start my ownership with a flawless paint job and detail. The detail shop I contacted have a paint correction and a paint restoration package using Kamikaze nano ceramic products (Esoteric Auto Detail uses it). The resto package adds wet sanding (and doubles the price). Anyone have any experience with wet sanding their GT? I really don't think my low mileage collector car needs it, so I think the paint correction will suffice, but willing to spend the extra $$$$ if wet sanding will transform the paint vs just a top level polish and ceramic coat.

 

[RALPHIE]

... Anyone have any experience with wet sanding their GT? I really don't think my low mileage collector car needs it, so I think the paint correction will suffice, but willing to spend the extra $$$$ if wet sanding will transform the paint vs just a top level polish and ceramic coat.

Remember - there is a clear coat layer over the color!

 

[GTdrummer]

There are a bunch of hydrophobics on the market. I use Beeds because it has no solvents. If you can wax a car, it ain't real hard to do.

Like everything, prep is key . Remove swirls , clay bar etc. ( I hate the term " paint correction" almost as much when someone in the office tells me they are going to " reach out" to someone . For 30 years I called, contacted etc people now we must be softer ugh)

 

[TO AWSUM]

Anyone have any experience with wet sanding their GT? I really don't think my low mileage collector car needs it, so I think the paint correction will suffice, but willing to spend the extra $$$$ if wet sanding will transform the paint vs just a top level polish and ceramic coat.

Wet sanding is pretty drastic unless you have some deep scratches or very heavy oxidation which it doesn't sound like you have any with "a low mileage" car. The warnings on whether to use a car wax or a car polish is that overuse of a car polish, which has abrasives in it, will eventually remove all your paint. So, what I am trying to say is don't use any abrasive unless scratches/swirls can't be removed with a clay bar which is a form of fine abrasive. I'd be very skeptical about using any business that would recommend or even offer to wet sand your low mileage GT. I've also been reading that some of these coatings put a slight white glaze on the surface and are not optically clear.

 

[OTG]

Wet sanding is pretty drastic unless you have some deep scratches or very heavy oxidation which it doesn't sound like you have any with "a low mileage" car. The warnings on whether to use a car wax or a car polish is that overuse of a car polish, which has abrasives in it, will eventually remove all your paint. So, what I am trying to say is don't use any abrasive unless scratches/swirls can't be removed with a clay bar which is a form of fine abrasive. I'd be very skeptical about using any business that would recommend or even offer to wet sand your low mileage GT. I've also been reading that some of these coatings put a slight white glaze on the surface and are not optically clear.

Thanks for the input. I agree - my car is beautiful as is, but does have slight swirl marks here and there and I just wanted to make it perfect. I am a little annoyed after doing more research on wet sanding that these guys (that I really liked) suggested such a major undertaking on a car that already looks great. Makes me wonder if I want them to even do the polishing detail.

 

[REDEEMED]

for rocketman-- goes on great over my clear-bra? and the applier strips off my layers of Zaino? thanks, Bert

 

[bonehead]

Wet sanding is pretty drastic unless you have some deep scratches or very heavy oxidation which it doesn't sound like you have any with "a low mileage" car. The warnings on whether to use a car wax or a car polish is that overuse of a car polish, which has abrasives in it, will eventually remove all your paint. So, what I am trying to say is don't use any abrasive unless scratches/swirls can't be removed with a clay bar which is a form of fine abrasive. I'd be very skeptical about using any business that would recommend or even offer to wet sand your low mileage GT. I've also been reading that some of these coatings put a slight white glaze on the surface and are not optically clear.

Agree with everything but your comments on the clay bar. Clay barring is not intended to remove optical imperfections in the paint such as light swirl marks. It does remove surface contamination (fallout, light oxidation, road tar, etc) which can affect the effectiveness and overall clarity after a single/multistage polish. If anything, clay bars induce swirl marks and paint imperfections which the subsequent step (i.e. polishing) would remove.

 

[GTdrummer]

Agree with everything but your comments on the clay bar. Clay barring is not intended to remove optical imperfections in the paint such as light swirl marks. It does remove surface contamination (fallout, light oxidation, road tar, etc) which can affect the effectiveness and overall clarity after a single/multistage polish. If anything, clay bars induce swirl marks and paint imperfections which the subsequent step (i.e. polishing) would remove.

Yep

 

[B. West]

If you are just concerned about removing the swirl marks, you can do a Stage 1 paint correction with no sealant. The only problem is you would have to be very careful washing and particularly drying your car. You need really good microfiber towels. The other thing to note about sealants is that if you plan to clear bra your car, it is best to do it before you apply sealant. A sealant makes it very slippery and harder for protective film to adhere.

 

[TO AWSUM]

Agree with everything but your comments on the clay bar. Clay barring is not intended to remove optical imperfections in the paint such as light swirl marks. It does remove surface contamination (fallout, light oxidation, road tar, etc) which can affect the effectiveness and overall clarity after a single/multistage polish. If anything, clay bars induce swirl marks and paint imperfections which the subsequent step (i.e. polishing) would remove.

I agree. I re-read his post saying he wanted to remove his swirl marks. If the swirls need to be removed then, yes, a polish is required.